Better to have more cubes or less with FI?
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From: Lakeland, Fl
Better to have more cubes or less with FI? So I have been thinking of a FI build for a street car. I am targeting 8xx/8xxrw. I have also been thinking of something between 400-500 c.i. and 10:1 compression. I would run pump 93 and it set up for E85 and or meth capability. My thinking is bigger cubes and less boost to make things more reliable long term. Also the 10:1 would help for the parking lot driving. Most likely will be a manual transmission. Am I missing a basic that says smaller cubes and just more boost is easier to get it done?
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I prefer smaller CI for traction purposes. Didn't have any issues driving around with my 5.3l engines and a manual transmission, but i was able to put more power down and faster than comparable cars with more CI.
So I have been thinking of a FI build for a street car. I am targeting 8xx/8xxrw. I have also been thinking of something between 400-500 c.i. and 10:1 compression. I would run pump 93 and it set up for E85 and or meth capability. My thinking is bigger cubes and less boost to make things more reliable long term. Also the 10:1 would help for the parking lot driving. Most likely will be a manual transmission. Am I missing a basic that says smaller cubes and just more boost is easier to get it done?
I always go for the cubic inches, but my stuff is mostly street use. The torque makes for nice driving, you can use a smaller cam, esp if using a man. trans. Add boost to get where you want.
Your results may vary.
Your results may vary.
What forum of forced induction? PD Blower, turbo, centrifugal? As said, for 800 ish, if your going turbo, I wouldn't do anything but a 5.3 or 6.0. I don't see the reason.
I personally like a turbo setup much better over a blower. With that said, a blower is probably better with a manual transmission. Most of it is personal preference, but it also depends on the purpose of the car.
What are your goals of this? And what is it going in?
I personally like a turbo setup much better over a blower. With that said, a blower is probably better with a manual transmission. Most of it is personal preference, but it also depends on the purpose of the car.
What are your goals of this? And what is it going in?
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Agree, I don't get why people are still building LS's for under 900hp, OEM Gen4 internals have been beyond proven to take 800+hp for years on end.
How much torque do you need on the street? Even a 5.3L can absolutely roast 28x10.50 slicks down the highway.
I think big inch blower cars are pretty touchy with a manual, the amount of instant torque just isn't needed on the street unless you want to do 3 block long burnouts. I agree turbo is more manageable and almost infinitely adjustable from the drivers seat.
What forum of forced induction? PD Blower, turbo, centrifugal? As said, for 800 ish, if your going turbo, I wouldn't do anything but a 5.3 or 6.0. I don't see the reason.
I personally like a turbo setup much better over a blower. With that said, a blower is probably better with a manual transmission. Most of it is personal preference, but it also depends on the purpose of the car.
What are your goals of this? And what is it going in?
I personally like a turbo setup much better over a blower. With that said, a blower is probably better with a manual transmission. Most of it is personal preference, but it also depends on the purpose of the car.
What are your goals of this? And what is it going in?
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Lakeland, Fl
What forum of forced induction? PD Blower, turbo, centrifugal? As said, for 800 ish, if your going turbo, I wouldn't do anything but a 5.3 or 6.0. I don't see the reason.
I personally like a turbo setup much better over a blower. With that said, a blower is probably better with a manual transmission. Most of it is personal preference, but it also depends on the purpose of the car.
What are your goals of this? And what is it going in?
I personally like a turbo setup much better over a blower. With that said, a blower is probably better with a manual transmission. Most of it is personal preference, but it also depends on the purpose of the car.
What are your goals of this? And what is it going in?
The car will be a C6 and could be Z06 model. This is not a track dedicated car nor an auto cross car. I would put a decent tire on it to drive around. Not a daily driver. I had a 408 with nitrous and it put 800 to the wheels in a TA with a manual. Mostly a car to take to a track a couple times a month. I like to row the gears so an auto is not appealing to me. I have been leaning towards a supercharger because I just like the sound they give you. It is easier to have meth or run E85 which is why I am not doing another nitrous car. I am thinking of a 9.99 e.t. and still have the ac.
The car will be a C6 and could be Z06 model. This is not a track dedicated car nor an auto cross car. I would put a decent tire on it to drive around. Not a daily driver. I had a 408 with nitrous and it put 800 to the wheels in a TA with a manual. Mostly a car to take to a track a couple times a month. I like to row the gears so an auto is not appealing to me. I have been leaning towards a supercharger because I just like the sound they give you. It is easier to have meth or run E85 which is why I am not doing another nitrous car. I am thinking of a 9.99 e.t. and still have the ac.
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From: Lakeland, Fl
I'd save money for the drivetrain before spending it on cubes in a lightweight car.
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From: Lakeland, Fl
Aftermarket trans still break, I had the gforce setup and the shafts still snapped.
C6's can fit some pretty decent size tires, easily fits 28x10.50W's and can run 29.5's but then when they hook everything else likes to give up smoke, differential, output stubs, axles, driveshaft couplers, etc.
I'd save money for the drivetrain before spending it on cubes in a lightweight car.
C6's can fit some pretty decent size tires, easily fits 28x10.50W's and can run 29.5's but then when they hook everything else likes to give up smoke, differential, output stubs, axles, driveshaft couplers, etc.
I'd save money for the drivetrain before spending it on cubes in a lightweight car.
I would build the drive train for 1000rw and cooling like it is in Phoenix mid summer. And when you drive a manual clutches and trans become consumables. Over build and under push. I am really trying to understand how to pick the right c.i. and necessary boost for the engine to survive without a yearly teardown. I have nuked a couple engines so i understand nothing is "fool"(me) proof.
You need to pick which car you are starting with and go from there. A C6Z with an LS7 427 vs a base with an LS3 376 are completely different starting points. The LS3 is arguably the better option for higher boost but the 427 can last a good while at 800hp on pretty low boost, neither should need yearly teardowns at 800hp.
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From: Lakeland, Fl
I get clutches wearing that's not a big deal, but I'm not a fan of transmissions being a consumable, especially to only run 9.9's.
You need to pick which car you are starting with and go from there. A C6Z with an LS7 427 vs a base with an LS3 376 are completely different starting points. The LS3 is arguably the better option for higher boost but the 427 can last a good while at 800hp on pretty low boost, neither should need yearly teardowns at 800hp.
You need to pick which car you are starting with and go from there. A C6Z with an LS7 427 vs a base with an LS3 376 are completely different starting points. The LS3 is arguably the better option for higher boost but the 427 can last a good while at 800hp on pretty low boost, neither should need yearly teardowns at 800hp.
if it was the LS3 then i would inly use the block and go with forged internals. If i bought the Z06 I would.most likely sell the motor and get one purposely built. I do t mind spending the money just want to spend it as few times as possible. I would even do an iron block if the reliability was significant over an aluminum block.
Putting an iron block in a vette doesnt make much sense, but I don't disagree about selling the LS7 to fund the project. You could easily sell the LS7 and get a much stronger engine that could handle double your goal and come out even.
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From: Lakeland, Fl
Why bother? LS3 has been 7's on stock internals and lots of guys make 900+whp with them. You seen conflicted about your goals, 800hp and 9.9's in a C6 is plenty doable without the things you are talking about, 700hp in a C6 run's mid 9's at worst.
Putting an iron block in a vette doesnt make much sense, but I don't disagree about selling the LS7 to fund the project. You could easily sell the LS7 and get a much stronger engine that could handle double your goal and come out even.
Putting an iron block in a vette doesnt make much sense, but I don't disagree about selling the LS7 to fund the project. You could easily sell the LS7 and get a much stronger engine that could handle double your goal and come out even.
The 800 number come from what i was use too with my old car. So if i understand you correctly an LS3 sbe and good heads for FI will hold 800rwtq potential as long as fuel and boost is there. Also between 388-427 c.i. with 10-14 lbs of boost will get the job done. Additionally 700rw will put a full weight C6/z06 into the high 9's with a manual transmission mission that will not be a dog on the street or a dog below 3500rpm. Correct?
Don't even need aftermarket LS3 heads, stock ones hold 800+ easily. Good fuel and some boost you are good to go. Ive done LS3’s that make 900+ on 18-19psi with stock heads.
My friend made 650hp NA and ran mid 9’s with his 427. In my car mid 9’s only took 8psi with my 364. Both manual c6’s and both certainly not a dog on the street.