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Fitment it's always a problem with those. Contact @Huron Speed
can’t afford them right now sorry🤷🏾♂️ cx kit has a small issue with the driver side header, you have to take it off in order to replace spark plug other then that i heard this is a decent kit
I have less than $2500 into my entire Huronspeed truck manifold T4 kit. Hot side, cold side, BOV, wastegate, and 78/75 VS Racing billet turbo. That's not cheap?
I have less than $2500 into my entire Huronspeed truck manifold T4 kit. Hot side, cold side, BOV, wastegate, and 78/75 VS Racing billet turbo. That's not cheap?
damn fr? Well may I’ll reconsider, i just need to build my trans & rear end so that’s more money outta my pocket.
Don't bother building your 10 bolt. Ask me how I know. Lol. If you are sub-3500 lbs., a 10 bolt behind an automatic will generally live into the upper 10's, but NOT reliably. Find a used 9" or S60. If you're never going to see the dragstrip, then you can probably run the 10 bolt for awhile. It's a ticking time bomb, just keep that in mind. I blew mine up 14 times before I finally bit the bullet and got an S60.
Don't bother building your 10 bolt. Ask me how I know. Lol. If you are sub-3500 lbs., a 10 bolt behind an automatic will generally live into the upper 10's, but NOT reliably. Find a used 9" or S60. If you're never going to see the dragstrip, then you can probably run the 10 bolt for awhile. It's a ticking time bomb, just keep that in mind. I blew mine up 14 times before I finally bit the bullet and got an S60.
I'll let you guys in on a little secret. The 10 bolt breaks constantly if you have 3.73 and up gears. 3.42's isn't AS bad, but its MUCH stronger with 2.73's or 3.08's. With boost, thats actually a good thing. Are you wondering why they break easier with numerically higher ratios? Look how small the pinion is. The higher numerically you go, the smaller it gets. Then, think about this, at any given time you might have just 1 or 1.5 teeth engaged with the ring. put 2.73's in and it'll have 2.5-3 teeth in at any given time. The larger rear ends have a bigger pinion and ring gear and have more teeth engaging when you go to numerically higher. Some, maybe even most of you have thought about this (hopefully) but I'm sure there's people that never even considered it..... fwiw
Don't bother building your 10 bolt. Ask me how I know. Lol. If you are sub-3500 lbs., a 10 bolt behind an automatic will generally live into the upper 10's, but NOT reliably. Find a used 9" or S60. If you're never going to see the dragstrip, then you can probably run the 10 bolt for awhile. It's a ticking time bomb, just keep that in mind. I blew mine up 14 times before I finally bit the bullet and got an S60.
its going to be a street/track car so I’d go with the 9inch rear end, the s60 is way to much haha
I'll let you guys in on a little secret. The 10 bolt breaks constantly if you have 3.73 and up gears. 3.42's isn't AS bad, but its MUCH stronger with 2.73's or 3.08's. With boost, thats actually a good thing. Are you wondering why they break easier with numerically higher ratios? Look how small the pinion is. The higher numerically you go, the smaller it gets. Then, think about this, at any given time you might have just 1 or 1.5 teeth engaged with the ring. put 2.73's in and it'll have 2.5-3 teeth in at any given time. The larger rear ends have a bigger pinion and ring gear and have more teeth engaging when you go to numerically higher. Some, maybe even most of you have thought about this (hopefully) but I'm sure there's people that never even considered it..... fwiw
never heard of this. I have 3.23s in my 10 bolt but i may not use the damn thing since it’s known to break all the time
I wouldn't build the 10 bolt either and i wouldn't swap the rear unless it's a dedicated track car. Light weight, auto, AND taller gears and it'll live just fine. Save your money and buy a better turbo kit.
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
My son has a listing on here now for a Moser 12 bolt and driveshaft. but shaft won't do you any good if you have a TH400. But the diff will be priced cheaper. Only thing is there are no spring perches because his was setup for coilovers.
I've always known the larger pinion size of the lower ( numerical ) ratios in a 7.5" axle was helpful in keeping the ring and pinion alive, but I was splitting carriers in half, shearing off the cross pin in the diff, and snapping axles too, lol. Broke a number of ring and pinions as well. An M6 finds weak points real quick.
I've always known the larger pinion size of the lower ( numerical ) ratios in a 7.5" axle was helpful in keeping the ring and pinion alive, but I was splitting carriers in half, shearing off the cross pin in the diff, and snapping axles too, lol. Broke a number of ring and pinions as well. An M6 finds weak points real quick.
I've always known the larger pinion size of the lower ( numerical ) ratios in a 7.5" axle was helpful in keeping the ring and pinion alive, but I was splitting carriers in half, shearing off the cross pin in the diff, and snapping axles too, lol. Broke a number of ring and pinions as well. An M6 finds weak points real quick.
A Stage 1 clutch won't find those weak points as quick as the Stage 3
x2 for Huron Speed, I ran their truck manifold kit for years and it never gave me an issue and plug access was cake with truck mani's.
The CX kit torches plug wires, even if you put sleeves on them, they will still get torched.
Spend a little extra coin for the Huron Speed kit or find a used kit.
I don't have much experience with Turbo stuff but based on all the stuff I have read on turbo truck engines over the years, I would of just ran a SBE 5.3 and spent money on a good turbo kit(huron) vs a built motor and cheap turbo kit. The former has been proven to be a potent and reliable combo to 750-800whp for years now. Not saying anything is wrong with building a motor, my comment is in regard to a budget and where the money should be spent.
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CX Racing turbo kit??? 
