Magnuson 2650
If you're staying stock block, the ARP CA625 1/2" studs seem to be what a lot of guys go to with the LS9 gaskets when going all out.
ARP does a CA625 in the 7/16" stud too iirc.
As suggested, bumping up the headers and exhaust is something that can happen now and inevitably you are going to need to do so with the next powerplant. Your using street oriented exhaust setup on a race blower, use race oriented exhaust setup on a the race blower and see what it nets you in the interim.
The exhaust makes sense. I currently have headers into 3" collectors with a 2 bolt flange on them which connects to my catback which is 2.5 magnaflow. It's super quiet but most likely a restriction at this power level. I'm not sure going to a 3" catback and getting rid of that immediate restriction where it goes to 2.5" will net much now, but it is easy to do and will benefit me later I'm sure. I may just do that now while I wait to see that new F1r-103 head unit.
There is something in your current setup that is just not adding up if you are over-spinning an -94.
1548hp (yes more CI, more cylinder head/intake, and somehow more PSI on more CI than where you say you are is interesting to me. Meaning I would think you'd be at a much higher PSI with smaller cubes, more restriction in exhaust, and over-spinning and leads me to cam profile bleeding off a good amount, maybe?)
https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...-1a-94-blower/
Stop video at 5:38 and it's 24.3psi
If you are dead set on TFS, consider one of the most proven TFS cathedral heads there has been in a FI setting since their inception and find a set of CNC 245's w/n2o port, should work on current 4.065 bore that your at now and when you decide to go to the 4.125 bore (388) will be even better suited. The -103 is later problems why throw more blower at inefficient combo (don't take offense to that), make what you have in front of you work better with small swings (and continue budgeting for big change), not that changing cylinder heads is small but in grand scheme of all the engine combos and power adder combos you've asked about, this is small swing.
There is something in your current setup that is just not adding up if you are over-spinning an -94.
1548hp (yes more CI, more cylinder head/intake, and somehow more PSI on more CI than where you say you are is interesting to me. Meaning I would think you'd be at a much higher PSI with smaller cubes, more restriction in exhaust, and over-spinning and leads me to cam profile bleeding off a good amount, maybe?)
https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-te...-1a-94-blower/
Stop video at 5:38 and it's 24.3psi
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0iHtVOcatM
If you are dead set on TFS, consider one of the most proven TFS cathedral heads there has been in a FI setting since their inception and find a set of CNC 245's w/n2o port, should work on current 4.065 bore that your at now and when you decide to go to the 4.125 bore (388) will be even better suited. The -103 is later problems why throw more blower at inefficient combo (don't take offense to that), make what you have in front of you work better with small swings (and continue budgeting for big change), not that changing cylinder heads is small but in grand scheme of all the engine combos and power adder combos you've asked about, this is small swing.
You aren’t wrong at all. I do believe they are way over spinning that blower in the video you shared. That crank pulley looks huge. Also not in the confines of an engine bay with a bell mouth and free exhaust vs me in a tight engine bay with a screen/blower guard and restrictive exh.
The track I run on is also a small town deal less than 10 minutes from home so it’s convenient but not well prepped. They usually prep a little past 100’ on test and tune so I find myself with excessive wheel speed down track which may reduce my trap speed/hp estimate.
All that said I do agree I don’t seem to be making all the power an f1a-94 is capable of.
The cam was ordered custom for my exact combo with the only exception/change being that I had a D1x at the time it was ordered.
I don’t have the card in front of me, but if my memory is correct rhe specs are:
232/248 .621 .605 116.5 lsa +4.
I’m willing to pull the motor and change the cam, lifters, heads, etc everything if it is determined that is what needs done.
At this point I think the heads and exhaust are the big restrictions as well as creating more room around the blower inlet for better flow. I’m running the 1300 hp Procharger air to air intercooler also.
The track I run on is also a small town deal less than 10 minutes from home so it’s convenient but not well prepped. They usually prep a little past 100’ on test and tune so I find myself with excessive wheel speed down track which may reduce my trap speed/hp estimate.
All that said I do agree I don’t seem to be making all the power an f1a-94 is capable of.
The cam was ordered custom for my exact combo with the only exception/change being that I had a D1x at the time it was ordered.
I don’t have the card in front of me, but if my memory is correct rhe specs are:
232/248 .621 .605 116.5 lsa +4.
I’m willing to pull the motor and change the cam, lifters, heads, etc everything if it is determined that is what needs done.
At this point I think the heads and exhaust are the big restrictions as well as creating more room around the blower inlet for better flow. I’m running the 1300 hp Procharger air to air intercooler also.
I don't know how it is for blower cars but for a turbo deal, full exhaust typically costs power and spool.
I will tell you right now, a major restriction is that air to air intercooler you are running. You would pick up big time by running a good custom A2W Garrett core setup, we've picked up 150 rwhp before switching to our custom A2W setup we make on the C7s and Gen6 Camaros with no other changes. Honestly before changing anything else I would seriously consider moving to an A2W setup.
Fuel is 50 percent ethanol and water/meth with size 9 nozzle on at 5 psi. Peak timing is 19 degrees.
Spark plug after a pull:
I will look into the A2W setup. I’ve had that mentioned to me before but ignored it since my iat is so low but I never thought of the intercooler itself being an airflow restriction.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Shearfab also offers one that has the cooler and lid integrated - https://shearerfabrications.com/products/sf06-02012
Another flavor for Shearer - https://shearerfabrications.com/products/sf06-02036
I'd think you could run either on a low ram in order to not have to cut your hood.
I’ll have to think on this as it does add some other issues for a street car.
He was pushing his setup pretty hard like you and it just wouldn't keep temps down.
He moved to a Shearer unit and saw a huge difference.
It's a long read but there is a ton of data to support his findings.
417 Motorsports 1500hp Hi-Ram Intercooler: The Data - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
He was pushing his setup pretty hard like you and it just wouldn't keep temps down.
He moved to a Shearer unit and saw a huge difference.
It's a long read but there is a ton of data to support his findings.
417 Motorsports 1500hp Hi-Ram Intercooler: The Data - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
Im trying to think of where I would put it. I’m thinking ice box and pump in the trunk and hoses under car but not sure about where I would put the intercooler itself on the GTO.
Last edited by BCNUL8R; Jul 3, 2025 at 03:29 PM.
I'm not sure about those brick intercoolers.












