Why can't I get my QMP kit to finally work?
08-14-2004, 09:34 PM
#42
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
He's got the wrong wires for the kit on there. The MSDs and NGKs need to be put back in.
NOTE: plugs in the correct heat range too
I haven't had any problems with my MSD wires and TR6 plugs....unless I didn't click the wires on all the way.
08-15-2004, 01:36 AM
#45
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I dont think the plug wires are not the problem anyway but I wont rule it out of course. I am open to all possibilities. But I was having misfires with the MSD plug wires on before they burned up. It FIRST began misfiring as soon as the engine was rebuilt and they took it for the first test drive. There was no change in plugs or plug wires at that time. Immediately before the engine rebuild there were 0 misfires.
I was only mentioning the amount of boost because someone said something like if your running between 9-15 lbs of boost then something. So i was just clarifying
Wow I had forgotten about that old thread
I also had forgotten about Rob mentioning not putting the heat sheilds on. I took a look at it myself and it seems almost impossible to keep the plug wires from touching the manifold. I messed with it alot and the only way I could get the wires to click on the plugs was with them touching or being within like a centimeter of the manifold. The angle just seems to make it very difficult to connect them without touching. 
I was only mentioning the amount of boost because someone said something like if your running between 9-15 lbs of boost then something. So i was just clarifying
Wow I had forgotten about that old thread
I also had forgotten about Rob mentioning not putting the heat sheilds on. I took a look at it myself and it seems almost impossible to keep the plug wires from touching the manifold. I messed with it alot and the only way I could get the wires to click on the plugs was with them touching or being within like a centimeter of the manifold. The angle just seems to make it very difficult to connect them without touching. Last edited by vhgjk123; 08-15-2004 at 01:53 AM.
08-15-2004, 08:36 AM
#46
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Have you checked your valve springs? This would be a good first step when pulling that head (you can't inspect them properly with the rockers on). Pull the rockers and look really close at the springs.
I'd do compression and leakdown first, though.
-Geoff
I'd do compression and leakdown first, though.
-Geoff
08-15-2004, 05:15 PM
#47
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Okay, I think everyone is confused here because some important information has been left out.
vhgjk123- I spoke with Chris @ Car Analysis about your car for well over an hour a week or so ago. At that time, I determined that the BOV was not set properly (actually, never set at all as I found out). I told Chris that the best thing to do was to remove it all together for the time being, and install a block-off plate (which I told him we would overnight if he needed). I also told him that if the BOV was in fact open during your Dyno tuning, that you would need to have the car re-tuned IMMEDIATELY. I am even more convinced after reading your statement that "after removing the BOV the car ran fine for 15minutes, and then started misfiring again". This tells me that the tuning was done originally with metered air escaping through the open BOV. After blocking it off, the tune would be even more useless.
Also, if I'm not mistaken, Chris told me that the car was first tuned with burned plug wires? Is that correct? Because if so, those cylinders would have been running rich, and Ed would have been removing fuel from the programming to get the overall AF correct. Therefore making you lean after replacing the wires later. Make sense? Which is probably why you hurt the engine so soon after getting the car back from Ed.
Hope that helps.
vhgjk123- I spoke with Chris @ Car Analysis about your car for well over an hour a week or so ago. At that time, I determined that the BOV was not set properly (actually, never set at all as I found out). I told Chris that the best thing to do was to remove it all together for the time being, and install a block-off plate (which I told him we would overnight if he needed). I also told him that if the BOV was in fact open during your Dyno tuning, that you would need to have the car re-tuned IMMEDIATELY. I am even more convinced after reading your statement that "after removing the BOV the car ran fine for 15minutes, and then started misfiring again". This tells me that the tuning was done originally with metered air escaping through the open BOV. After blocking it off, the tune would be even more useless.
Also, if I'm not mistaken, Chris told me that the car was first tuned with burned plug wires? Is that correct? Because if so, those cylinders would have been running rich, and Ed would have been removing fuel from the programming to get the overall AF correct. Therefore making you lean after replacing the wires later. Make sense? Which is probably why you hurt the engine so soon after getting the car back from Ed.
Hope that helps.
08-15-2004, 05:21 PM
#48
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well as far as overheating i have my i/c in front of the rad.and i can sit in 100 degree temps in traffic with the ac on for very long periods of time and have no issues at all,so that makes me and ss0blue a liars i guess
08-15-2004, 06:01 PM
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Rob Raymer- That makes total sense....in fact if he finds the problem to be anything but what you have just stated I would be surprised. By the way....that was some very important detail 
08-15-2004, 09:17 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by Transdamit
well as far as overheating i have my i/c in front of the rad.and i can sit in 100 degree temps in traffic with the ac on for very long periods of time and have no issues at all,so that makes me and ss0blue a liars i guess
08-15-2004, 10:51 PM
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like good old boston trafic for about 2.5 hours,and the guage stayed at 195 the whole time,well moved a tiny bit when the fan came on and off but never moved more than 3 or 4 degrees
08-16-2004, 07:27 AM
#55
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i had a front mount and never once had an over heating prob. even at the wochester nationals!!!! Tran knows what i mean!!
i did have an upgraded radiator tho
i did have an upgraded radiator tho
08-16-2004, 07:33 AM
#56
Originally Posted by Unusual T/A
Yes. I am also going by what one of the people who used to have the kit on his t/a told me. He also used to work at qmp. I am just trying to help this guy rule out his overheating problem, not to start a constant argument.
That should be addressed, IMO.
08-16-2004, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
If what we have agreed upon is true then it sounds like the tune needs to be tweaked so that they have decreased timing in the tables the A/C is involved in, thus decreasing the burn rate and heat produced.
That should be addressed, IMO.
That should be addressed, IMO.
08-17-2004, 10:59 AM
#58
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Originally Posted by Rob Raymer
Okay, I think everyone is confused here because some important information has been left out.
vhgjk123- I spoke with Chris @ Car Analysis about your car for well over an hour a week or so ago. At that time, I determined that the BOV was not set properly (actually, never set at all as I found out). I told Chris that the best thing to do was to remove it all together for the time being, and install a block-off plate (which I told him we would overnight if he needed). I also told him that if the BOV was in fact open during your Dyno tuning, that you would need to have the car re-tuned IMMEDIATELY. I am even more convinced after reading your statement that "after removing the BOV the car ran fine for 15minutes, and then started misfiring again". This tells me that the tuning was done originally with metered air escaping through the open BOV. After blocking it off, the tune would be even more useless.
Also, if I'm not mistaken, Chris told me that the car was first tuned with burned plug wires? Is that correct? Because if so, those cylinders would have been running rich, and Ed would have been removing fuel from the programming to get the overall AF correct. Therefore making you lean after replacing the wires later. Make sense? Which is probably why you hurt the engine so soon after getting the car back from Ed.
Hope that helps.
vhgjk123- I spoke with Chris @ Car Analysis about your car for well over an hour a week or so ago. At that time, I determined that the BOV was not set properly (actually, never set at all as I found out). I told Chris that the best thing to do was to remove it all together for the time being, and install a block-off plate (which I told him we would overnight if he needed). I also told him that if the BOV was in fact open during your Dyno tuning, that you would need to have the car re-tuned IMMEDIATELY. I am even more convinced after reading your statement that "after removing the BOV the car ran fine for 15minutes, and then started misfiring again". This tells me that the tuning was done originally with metered air escaping through the open BOV. After blocking it off, the tune would be even more useless.
Also, if I'm not mistaken, Chris told me that the car was first tuned with burned plug wires? Is that correct? Because if so, those cylinders would have been running rich, and Ed would have been removing fuel from the programming to get the overall AF correct. Therefore making you lean after replacing the wires later. Make sense? Which is probably why you hurt the engine so soon after getting the car back from Ed.
Hope that helps.
08-17-2004, 12:26 PM
#59
Originally Posted by vhgjk123
Thank you for the response Rob. So now do you think I need to send the car back to Ed Wright's with the block off plate on for him to retune it? Or just have to BOV set properly and retune it?
