Forced Induction Superchargers | Turbochargers | Intercoolers

Guys with the Qmp kits come inside

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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 05:37 PM
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Default Guys with the Qmp kits come inside

Does the elbow that goes from the Tb to the intercooler pipe ever blow off? Mine does all the time at 12psi now! WTF! Is there another clamp I can use that will hold it ??
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 05:55 PM
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That's quite a bit of boost. I'd suggest getting a high quality T-Clamp to hold that increased boost pressure.

I believe http://www.hightempsilicone.com has them.
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 07:52 PM
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Nope. I've used stainless worm drives at 22 PSI in Talons, and ~13 PSI in camaros with NO issues. T-Bolts definitely help, though.

SC-
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 06:20 AM
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Clean it good with electronic parts spray/brake cleaner and then spray some hair spray on the inside of the elbow... before it dries, throw the elbow on and tighten it down. The hair spray is sticky enough to semi glue the elbow on. Works great for me
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RICE ETR
Clean it good with electronic parts spray/brake cleaner and then spray some hair spray on the inside of the elbow... before it dries, throw the elbow on and tighten it down. The hair spray is sticky enough to semi glue the elbow on. Works great for me
Cool! I'll try the free solution first! Thanks!
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 12:34 PM
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yep hairspray mod works great
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RICE ETR
Clean it good with electronic parts spray/brake cleaner and then spray some hair spray on the inside of the elbow... before it dries, throw the elbow on and tighten it down. The hair spray is sticky enough to semi glue the elbow on. Works great for me
yup, used that technique also.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 01:35 PM
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sounds like the bov isnt working or not quick enough to me.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
sounds like the bov isnt working or not quick enough to me.
It had not done this until I reset my overboost setting and till I tried rewiring the boost controller.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 03:43 PM
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I agree with MM.....if it comes off when you let off the gas, it is a misadjusted BOV
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
I agree with MM.....if it comes off when you let off the gas, it is a misadjusted BOV
What do you mean by misadjusted? I didn't know you could adjust a hks bov. Anything over 10psi and right at 4500rpms it blows right off. On 10psi it seems as if it starts to move after about 4-5 wot runs. How do I adjust it?
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 07:15 PM
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yea on second thought, I also agree with the bov not helping things. My HKS did that because of my low vacuum from my cam, so I cut a couples coils off the spring to make it work with less of a vacuum signal. That along with the hair spray and it works like a charm.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RICE ETR
yea on second thought, I also agree with the bov not helping things. My HKS did that because of my low vacuum from my cam, so I cut a couples coils off the spring to make it work with less of a vacuum signal. That along with the hair spray and it works like a charm.
Do you have the SSQV? I'm still running the stock cam so vaccuum shoulnd't be a problem.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 07:50 PM
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yep, that's the one I have. How much does it take to make it open? All I have to do is get close to 0psi and it chirps. Are you hearing the turbo flutter/surge alot? If so then that is the problem as the bov is definitely not working correctly.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RICE ETR
yep, that's the one I have. How much does it take to make it open? All I have to do is get close to 0psi and it chirps. Are you hearing the turbo flutter/surge alot? If so then that is the problem as the bov is definitely not working correctly.
Yea it opens at 0psi. I would say it does flutter even below 0psi. Like at -10 on the vaccuum side. So does that mean it needs to be opened up more? I looked and it appears the screw is all the way down
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 09:51 PM
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Well the turbo is going to flutter a little in situations like that with this bov, but the main thing is to make sure it is opening when you are up in the boost.... if not then it is really hard on the turbo.
That's the one thing I don't like about the SSQV is it only has one port for a vacuum signal, if it had another for boost only then it would be more sensitive and open quicker. I think the delay in the engine getting into vacuum and the bov opening is a little too long.
You want the bov to just be closed at idle... then anymore vacuum and it will open up. That's how I have mine now. I would try to reduce the preload on it some more and see if it helps.
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by RICE ETR
Well the turbo is going to flutter a little in situations like that with this bov, but the main thing is to make sure it is opening when you are up in the boost.... if not then it is really hard on the turbo.
That's the one thing I don't like about the SSQV is it only has one port for a vacuum signal, if it had another for boost only then it would be more sensitive and open quicker. I think the delay in the engine getting into vacuum and the bov opening is a little too long.
You want the bov to just be closed at idle... then anymore vacuum and it will open up. That's how I have mine now. I would try to reduce the preload on it some more and see if it helps.

How would i reduce the preload?
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 10:25 PM
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Oh... sorry for the confusion.... that screw is what compresses the internal spring and puts pressure on the valve to keep it closed. So just back it off until the screw is not compressing the spring at all and go from there. This might be too loose which will make the bov leak at idle.
In my case, because even with that screw backed all of the way off, there is still some preload built into the bov when it is assembled. So I had to cut coils off to get mine to work. You shouldn't have to do that. Have to tried the hair spray trick yet?
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Old Sep 19, 2004 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RICE ETR
Oh... sorry for the confusion.... that screw is what compresses the internal spring and puts pressure on the valve to keep it closed. So just back it off until the screw is not compressing the spring at all and go from there. This might be too loose which will make the bov leak at idle.
In my case, because even with that screw backed all of the way off, there is still some preload built into the bov when it is assembled. So I had to cut coils off to get mine to work. You shouldn't have to do that. Have to tried the hair spray trick yet?
I did the hair spray thing but haven't had a chance to lay into it. I will try it tomorrow morning. Thanks for the bov tip I'm going to have to try it tomrrow also.
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Old Sep 20, 2004 | 05:03 AM
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i did the hairspray thing for awhile, but the Tbolt clamps work a whole lot better.
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