Crank Pinning
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From: Norn Iron
Crank Pinning Sorry if this is a repeat. Ive searched a bit, and found a lot of info...but not specifically this...
The crank pulley on the LS1, is rather difficult to fit, and remove as its a press fit. I'll soon be fitting my new pulley, in readyness for a supercharger setup using 50mm cogged pulleys.
There is a crank pinning kit with this, which consists of 2 pins which need the crank drilled to suit. Not sure what make it is, but its just 2 x 1/4"dia pins
With this in mind, would you forsee any problems, machining the crank pulley, so that it is a nice slip put, rather than a press fit onto and off the crankshaft ??
Next up is the crank bolt. I do have a new one, and I see many people say it must be used...Surely if you use thread lock/loctite on it, the old one would be fine ?? Just wondering what others think.
The crank pulley on the LS1, is rather difficult to fit, and remove as its a press fit. I'll soon be fitting my new pulley, in readyness for a supercharger setup using 50mm cogged pulleys.
There is a crank pinning kit with this, which consists of 2 pins which need the crank drilled to suit. Not sure what make it is, but its just 2 x 1/4"dia pins
With this in mind, would you forsee any problems, machining the crank pulley, so that it is a nice slip put, rather than a press fit onto and off the crankshaft ??
Next up is the crank bolt. I do have a new one, and I see many people say it must be used...Surely if you use thread lock/loctite on it, the old one would be fine ?? Just wondering what others think.
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From: Norn Iron
I understand that, but Im talking about with a view to removal afterwards.
The engine is not yet fitted to my car, and I intend to fit it normally aspirated first, get it running, then remove and fit forged LC pistons etc, and rebuild with new heads and cam.
Having a pulley that is easily removed and fitted would be nice, without having to resort to pullers all the time.
The engine is not yet fitted to my car, and I intend to fit it normally aspirated first, get it running, then remove and fit forged LC pistons etc, and rebuild with new heads and cam.
Having a pulley that is easily removed and fitted would be nice, without having to resort to pullers all the time.
I wouldn't suggest that, GM made it a press fit with a torque to yeild bolt for a reason. I understand wanting to simplify the dissassembly process, but it's not worth taking a chance on having your balancer introduce itself to your radiator 
Do your self a favor, spend 6 bucks on a new bolt, install & pin your balancer using the proper procedure, and forget about it. When you're pulling the balancer later, you can take comfort in the fact that if you have to go through a hassle to get it off, then it sure isn't going to fly off under boost!
Ed
Do your self a favor, spend 6 bucks on a new bolt, install & pin your balancer using the proper procedure, and forget about it. When you're pulling the balancer later, you can take comfort in the fact that if you have to go through a hassle to get it off, then it sure isn't going to fly off under boost!
Ed
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From: Norn Iron
OK, to put the question another way.
Does every other SBC or indeed Ford V8's have a press fit crank pulley, or are they simply keyed or pinned ?
If they are a normal slip fit with key or pin, do they have problems when used in a high powered SC application ?
Is a proper keyway reckoned to secure better than the 2 x 1/4" pins in the kit I have ??
The pulley I have has a keyway in it, although obviously I would require a key, and to have the crank machined to make use of it. Pinning is a much easier option
Does every other SBC or indeed Ford V8's have a press fit crank pulley, or are they simply keyed or pinned ?
If they are a normal slip fit with key or pin, do they have problems when used in a high powered SC application ?
Is a proper keyway reckoned to secure better than the 2 x 1/4" pins in the kit I have ??
The pulley I have has a keyway in it, although obviously I would require a key, and to have the crank machined to make use of it. Pinning is a much easier option
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I think the answer is yes as well, every engine I have ever worked on had a press fit whether it was keyed or not. Why do you think you need to use a puller to remove any balancer?
Ed
Ed
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From: Norn Iron
My previous Rover V8, Subaru, Mini, Various 4 cyl Fords, and some Toyotas I have worked on, and the majority of cars found in the UK do not have pressed on pulleys. Some may be a little stiff to remove,, but do not require pullers, or to be pressed on, and all are secured from rotation by a keyway.
The LS1 is the first engine I have ever actually needed to use a puller to remove the crank pulley, and likewise, to press the pulley back on..
That is why I ask these questions.
The LS1 is the first engine I have ever actually needed to use a puller to remove the crank pulley, and likewise, to press the pulley back on..
That is why I ask these questions.
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From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Any non-keyed, non-pinned crank pulley can come loose due to using a belt driven supercharger if you push it hard. With a cogged YSi you will be pushing it hard.
I recommend pinning the crank in applications over 500 RWHP and would consider it a MUST if your torque exceeds the same. Just my experience.
Once I got the fuel to keep up with that 13 PSI of boost this year, I've broken a performance tranny three times. I may put it in once more to give me time to come up with my alternate plan, but I've got a race-ready PG sitting at my buddy's house already paid for.
I may do gear vendors and use it (back to a 4-speed) or move to 400 and Gear Vendors... or do a 4L80E. I don't know, yet.
