Chrisrokc

Some of these hondas and acuras are no joke. I have a friend with a 4 door integra gsr with a GT35R turbo and a built motor from hell pushing 550 something at the wheels and my other friend has a 2 door that on his old setup with the t60 he made 540 something. This time around he just finished building his motor, t70+ turbo and some other stuff. He is shooting for 600 or 700 on race gas in a 2600 lbs car.

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

for all u guys who think u have all the answers... heres my curve:

now can u understand why *SPRINGS* would alow me to rev out a LOT longer. and how a cam with make the curve LESS STEAP?
how many of u have experience with this turbo?
lll say this upfront, i dont know everything about about cars... but i definitely hate when people think they know everything about things theyve never had experience with.

BTW.. that lil dip at the top was corrected with the right plugs... long story

ps: like i sed, i am at a STARTING POINT. i am very happy with the way my car drives, and its not meant to b a 9 second beast... its a cruiser that i can take to the track.. and pick off some vipers if i get the chance. once i do some enginge work... even know u guys no everything, im confident i can flow better, rev higher, as well as up the boost for some crazy power

edit: like i sed b4... i got the bigger turbo for future plans... i knew the boost would come a little later but that was a comprimise i was willing to take

Gotboost??

who was this dirrected to? what are your mods and where are u located?

Gotboost??

so 9.8 1/4 is quicker than 9.5? just because the car that ran 9.8 has 200hp more? and here I was thinking quickness was measured in E.t and not HP.

DarkblueTA

Something isn't right there...you're power starts dropping off around 5K....you should keep making power all the way up to 6k

vhgjk123

Its definately the springs. I had the same problem with my NON_SPONSOR kit. It put CC918 springs on it and my dyno curved stayed up all the way to redline

squirrel masta

what b.o.v do you have

sb427f-car

Stock springs do not go into float @ 5300 RPM. 6300 maybe, but more like 6500+


As for people making comments about the applications on this board...you obviously haven't read here long enough. These are some of the smartest doit yourselfers here. I'm just lucky enough to have read and converesed with them on this great forum that brings us together.

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

TiAL 11psi...its blue
springs are definitely the biggest problem as far as powerrange goes...
and i dont know if u guys caught this b4... but i changed the plugs and the curve smoothes out at the top (still drops off early, but the dip is gone)

DarkblueTA

I'd be hard pressed to see it being the springs. Hell, my car had a blower pushing 7# of boost on the car for 54K miles and it was on the stock engine...never did the valves float because of bad springs. Something else isn't right IMHO but without seeing a realtime scan of his car while he's running it, its tough to tell.

DarkblueTA

Hopefully TR6's gapped at .035"

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

ive always heard that stock LS1 springs are good for like 6100 in stock form. :gotme: then add the fact that the rpms are going that much faster from the turbo.... i would think it would lessen time for the spring to expand that much more, maybe not as early as mine, but idk. im not meaning to get mad at u guys. obivously any HELPFUL opinions are appreciated

edit: yes they are tr6s. i ordered them originally, but i personally didnt pick them up/put them in the car cuz i was at school. then when I went to put another new set in suspecting something, i was like WTF???
but ya now i have 35gapped tr6s

sb427f-car

Whether you wrap out to 6000 in 5 seconds or 2 shouldn't have any effect on the valve train, you're still turning the same RPM. As darkblue said...it's probably else where.

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

u think something internal is f'd up??...

also, every once in a while i get a misfire light.. we made it more conservative in that area... but it still comes on every now and then(rarely)??? not good obviously

other than that, the car as smooth as silk, no wierd sounds, idk

DarkblueTA

No, I'm not gettying mad, don't take the post that way. I'm trying to figure out why your power went into the tank and fast. who did the install for you? tuning? Yes, make sure you have the TR6s gapped at .035".

See, reason being is I had a P1SC on the car pushing 7# of boost. sb427f-car can attest to this. There was a guy in DE/MD area that had a car simualr to the one you raced and I walked all over his *** 3 differnt times...and the most I was pushing was 470-480rwhp. He had a Built GSR engine, T3/T4 turbo pushing 13# of boost and ran 11.75@118 on slicks at the track. That's why I'm confused by your power output and video...get the power output issue resolved and get a re-match

Gotboost...before you go shootin' your mouth off, I know there are fast imports out there....just making sure there aren't very many on the street that can hang with me. hence the sig.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i would put better springs on it first also because it definitely couldn't hurt.your tq curve is definitely much more peaky than it should be according to the dyno-graph.

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

i have the bigger of the two turbos for future plans,,, thats also hurting me

DarkblueTA

Nope...if you're able to spool the T67(which by your dynograph you obviously are)..its not hurting you.

Who did your tuning?

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

a guy who does tuning for everything locally. hes pretty damn good. he smoothed my car right out, .... just look at the baselines..
innovativetuning.com....

i put most of the crap together, and my dad owns a huge garage with guys lookin over my work

DarkblueTA

I still don't understand how your hp/torque curves take a dump after 5300rpms. find someone with a scan tool in the local area and check to make sure that you're not getting knock retard over 5300 and what your timing is in that area also.