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Cam Swap - Worth it??

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Old 05-11-2005, 02:45 PM
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Default Cam Swap - Worth it??

Right now I'm running a Comp Cams 218/224 .527/.534 114 LSA.
I'm running 10PSI on my Vortech, 93 octane. Roughly 500RWHP, back to back 10.70's (when I can hook up).
The question is this: Would I benefit by changing to a more agressive cam? If so, any recommendations on the specs? I'm looking to squeeze out a little more power without upgrading the blower head unit.

I remember some guy like two years ago did this on his blower car and picked up alot of power.

Thanks.
Old 05-11-2005, 03:48 PM
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Give me a call Randy.

you looking for more power past 5000, more from 3500-5500 or... always pump gas or you gonna put some good gas in it?
Old 05-11-2005, 04:01 PM
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you can defiitely go with more lift, duration will depend on where you want your power band.
Old 05-11-2005, 04:24 PM
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I shift at 6400 - 6500RPMs. I want the most power possible before my redline. I don't care about driveability, or any of that stuff, just power. My converter stalls up to 3200-3600RPMs, so I guess I'm looking for maximum power from 4000-6500.
Old 05-11-2005, 10:59 PM
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Randy why do you shift that thing so low, besides that cam is out of breath tehre is there another reason not too? if the valvetrain is up to snuff I would cam that thign to shift at 7000
Old 05-12-2005, 12:23 AM
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Good question. Well, the supercharger is currently pulleyed such that the maximum impeller speed is right around 6450 engine RPMs. I was under the impression (from research done on this forum) that high engine RPMs was not necessarily the best thing for a supercharged LS1, as opposed to say a heads and cam car. So we pulleyed the boost to come in quick, and keep the engine RPMs low. And so therefore at the time, I picked a split duration cam that peaked at 6500, to match my shiftpoint. I figured a monster cam wasn't needed since I wouldn't shift that high, and most of the more "agressive" camshafts have peak power at 6700RPMs or higher.

Would you recommend a different strategy?
Old 05-12-2005, 08:01 AM
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Well there are soem slightly different valvetrain stresses on a blower car, and more drag from turnin th eblower, but in your case (pump gas and traction problems) I would be looking to make max power up top and not build so much midrange torque/cylinder pressure. Thats where it will usually detonate. I have some stuff to try if your interested
Old 05-12-2005, 09:27 AM
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224/230 ~ 580 lift that should be a good difference
Old 05-12-2005, 09:36 AM
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224? that a STOCK cam
Old 05-12-2005, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
224/230 ~ 580 lift that should be a good difference
Thats sort of where I was thinking too.

Hey Granny, what cam specs do you have in mind?
Or would you rather not post your top secret grind?
Hey that ryhmes.
Old 05-12-2005, 10:17 AM
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I just put a 230/238 .578/.613 cam in a truck with a ATI 115 LSA (done because it sees too much torque especially when spraying it )

Picked up 50 hp everywhere, drives like stock still

No exactly what Id try with yours but give you an idea of whats liveable easily
Old 05-13-2005, 10:26 AM
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Granny, what about overlap? Would a cam that aggressive have too much overlap for a supercharged LS1?
Old 05-13-2005, 03:03 PM
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thats really not all that much overlap in the cam I did for Marks truck. Only time I eean away from overlap at all is on turbocharged, high backpressure street turbo kits

I personally think even on a blower car you still need overlap, the blower will move air in, but an exhaust lobe timed right will also help blow down the cylinder more effeciently. You dont want to open the exhaust wayyyy ealry to do so either, or your going to cut into the cylinder fill time (power stroke last a bit longer on a low compression blower motor than a high comp NA peice)
Old 05-13-2005, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
thats really not all that much overlap in the cam I did for Marks truck. Only time I eean away from overlap at all is on turbocharged, high backpressure street turbo kits

I personally think even on a blower car you still need overlap, the blower will move air in, but an exhaust lobe timed right will also help blow down the cylinder more effeciently. You dont want to open the exhaust wayyyy ealry to do so either, or your going to cut into the cylinder fill time (power stroke last a bit longer on a low compression blower motor than a high comp NA peice)
Allright, so let's cut to the chase. You've seen my car on the dyno, you've seen the graph. Precisely what cam specs should I get, and where can I (or you) get the cam and when?




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