slick1851

Im wondering who has peice togther there own kit, or used differnt kits and how much have u spent on ur build up. I have a SC60-1 turbo pte and injectrs etc. I was thinking about using a short header on one side and then having a custom made header on the other side for the turbo?I talked to a tpi guy that has done this and said he just had a header made and then had a cross over pipe and down pipe made. It seem fairly easy and i am not new to turbos im from the dsm corwd and have a 95 transam sitting that im looking to build on a budget. Any input would be great guys thanx.


Joe

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

depending on boost id look into a forged bottom

slick1851

It would be stock 350 with, pistons weisco, and eagle rids? stock crank

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

its doable,but to do it right look to spend 4-5k if your piecing stuff together,be ready to search for stuff and lots of fabricating.you may want to look at junkyardturbos.com if you want to be a real cheap *** about everything cause they do it for like $2k but have garbage parts.do it right the first time and spend the extra money.

slick1851

Maybe ill just save my turbo for somthing differnt, Ill just make it a spray motor then

mongse

iTrader: (2)

I'd say $3500 for a twin turbo A/A setup. That's if you are smart about buying turbos (no HKS, PTE or Innovative allowed) and do the work yourself. Might have to add another $100 or so for misc. fittings, braided/hard line for the oil lines, etc.

RealQuick

iTrader: (14)

I am using two passenger side SLP dual cat headers with a Precision T76 GTQ. Here is a little pricelist breakdown for the turbo kit components only:

Headers ~$400
2.5” pipe ~ $60
Turbo ~$950 (I bought it used with a couple thousand miles on it)
Turbonetics Racegate - ~$350
Tial 50mm BOV ~$200
OBX FMIC ~ $275
3” IC piping ~ $110
Alky Injection Kit ~ $350
V-band flanges/clamp assemblies ~ $150
2.5” Flex joint ~ $30
3” exhaust pieces for DP ~$100
Oil lines, gaskets, etc. ~$150
Ceramic Coating of my parts when I am done ~ $300

My total will be ~$3400, but that includes an alky kit and ceramic coating…I also do all my welding and fabbing.

Guido

realquick, thats a pretty realistic way of looking at this kind of approach.

The other side of the coin is controlling your fuel/timing with the boost. What do you plan on doing for that? an FMU and boost retard box may suffice.

It looks like you have the turbo already which will work, but is probably a little small but will still give a decent SOTP improvement.

RealQuick

iTrader: (14)

Guido, like I said thats only the turbo kit , I dont want to confuse the the thread starter. I bought a delteq system for ignition, and I have an in tank Walbro 255, KB Boost-a-pump (which I need to wire up) and AC Delco 72lb/hr injectors with Acceleronics box. I plan on using tunercat to tune and a GM 2 bar MAP sensor. I will need to rescale tables that use MAP.

Total cost for my whole project will be ~$20k. I am doing the following:

HPE 383 LT1
AFR 210’s
Custom Cam
Turbo kit
Fuel and ignition
Mcleod street twin
Moser 9”/ driveshaft
Front and Rear suspension
Brakes
Wheels/tires/hood
Repaint the car

The car is just a body on a chassis on jack stands. Everything else is out.

As far as the turbo being small, yeak it is. However, I am looking for full boost by 3500rpm, which I dont think a T88 is capable of.

RealQuick

iTrader: (14)

My setup will be tight on the driver's side. Infact, I may have to cut it reroute once its in the car.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/330088-progress-turbo-kit.html

Guido

rq your turbo isnt small. LOL

I was referring to the 60 that slick has.

RealQuick

iTrader: (14)

My bad.

I have had people tell me the 76 is small for a 383, but like I said, I chose mine for spool time

bluecamaroz28

Is that possible with LT1 edit?

Has this been done before?

Is HP tuner able to do LT1 same as LS1?

RealQuick

iTrader: (14)

People have played with it before. Let me give you an example:

The timing table (rpm versus map).

It reads 0-100KPA (100KPA = 0psi gauge pressure). The MAP sensor gives a 0-5v output for the MAP reading.

If I want ~14.5psi of boost then my tabel should go up to 200KPA. A 2 Bar MAP sensor gives a 0-5V output as well.

You cant change the constraints of the tables. What will have to happen is the following:

If the stock map sensor reads 5v then the manifold is seeing 0psi gauge pressure (which is WOT on N/A engines).

If I swap in a 2 bar MAP sensor and the same 5v is put out, the ECU thinks its still WOT N/a (0 PSI of boost) when in actuality, the sensor is sensing 14.5psi of boost.

To correct this, I go to the timing tables in tunercat and rescale it. What that means is that I know the new sensor is seeing 14.5psi @ 5v, so it should be seeing 0psi @ 2.5v. So I adjust my timing in the columns like this:

between 0-50KPA = vacuum to 0psi
between 50-100KPA = 0psi-14.5psi

You lose resolution this way, but its a cheap alternative if you get it running right.