I just ordered an ATI D1SC and now need to get some gauges. I have a two part question. First part is about what kind of gauges will I need? Second part is a specific question about installing a boost gauge.

As for which gauges I will need. The only kind I know that work well are Autometer gauges. There are three gauges I need but not sure which one will be the type I need.

Boost Gauge: There are three different ones.
----Mechanical:
*4303 (Boost 30 In. Hg/30 PSI Above includes 6 ft. nylon tubing 1/8" & 1/4" NPT fittings.)

----Electrical:
*4376 (2-1/16" Boost 30 in Hg.-Vac./15 PSI Includes sender and universal T-fitting.)
*4377 (Same as the 4376 only reads to 30psi)

Which is better? Why? Not sure if Mechanical or elctrical is what I need. As far as boost gauges go please read my second question below.

Fuel Pressure Gauge: There are 4 different ones.
----Electrical:
*4363 (Fuel Pressure 0-100 PSI)
*4364 (Hi-Lo Fuel Pressure 0-100 PSI The pressure gauges listed above include sender, control box, connectors and wire.)(Do I need this extra stuff?)

----Mechanical:
*4312 (Fuel Press 0-100 PSI Both 4311 & 4312 require braided stainless steel hose & mounting cups. Must be mounted outside of vehicle.)
*4313 (Fuel Press with Isolator 0-15 PSI May be installed inside vehicle by mounting isolator in engine compartment. See information with photo on left.)

I'm really confused on this one guys. I don't know how isolators work. Don't know if I need one. I'd really like to know what my fuel pressure is while driving the car hard at high boost levels.

Air/Fuel Gauge: I only found one on Autometer's site.
----Electrical:
*4375 (Air Fuel Ratio (Lean -Rich)
Works with most OEM and aftermarket oxygen sensors, if sensor is needed - see model 2244. Click Here to see the Air Fuel Tech Tip and the gauge in gauge in action.)

I've heard from other people that this is a very inaccurate A/F meter. Is this true? Is this the only 2 1/16" gauge Autometer makes? Any other A/F meters out there that work better?

***********************
The second part of my question is about the boost gauge. I have a buddy with a Vortech supercharged Mustang that has the 4303 mechanical boost gauge. The problem is his boost gauge never shows a vacuum. I'm assuming this is because he installing it before the Throttle body and not after. If at all possible I would like for my Boost gauge to show both pressure and vacuum. Is there an easy, or relatively, easy way to install the gauge so I can get both readings?

I know this is a lot of crap to go through. I truely appreciate anyone who has taken the time to read through this post and respond.

Thanks,
BH

<small>[ December 08, 2002, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: Blown Hawk ]</small>

 

Get the mechanical boost gauge works good and cheaper.

Get the Electric fuel pressure gauge, you dont want to be running a fuel line up to you a pillar. dont think autometer sells the partial sweeps, cause they leek, so get the full sweep,

I wouldnt bother with the AF gauge, everyone says its just a pretty light show. some get it recalibrated for WOT, but your not gonna be using it for tunning.
INSTEAD get autotap or EFIlive, this will tell you your AF ratio.

 

Never seen the electric boost gauge, but John's right. The mechanical one is cheaper and works just fine. You'll need to run a hose instead of a wire, that's the only real difference i could see between the two.

Go electrical on the FP.

The Mechanical FP gauges either get mounted outside of the car, or you have to use an isolator. The isolator is just a diaphram that you run fuel to on one side, and the other has a fluid it in. You have to bleed it as well. Much less hassle to go electric.

A/F is a light so, but it's a decent idiot light at WOT. No good for tuning, but if you lose fuel pressure or run out of injector you'll see it fast on the A/F

 

Thanks for the tips so far guys. I've decided on the 4363 electric FP gauage and the 4375 electric A/F ratio gauge. I'm still trying to find more details about the electric boost gauge versus the mechanical one.

But does anyone have any idea about the second part of my question? How to mount the boost gauge so it shows pressure AND vacuum readings?

Thanks guys,
BH

 

Don't bother with A/F gauge, they are worthless. Use that money on your mechanical boost gauge. The electrical boost gauge is gonna be big bucks. Might have some cool features, so if you do buy it, be sure to let us know! I've heard of the isolators leaking, so go with the electrical FP gauge...... I had a mechancial outside the car on my GN, but I've never seen it that way on an LS1. I'd like to get mechanical fuel and oil pressure guages, but they'd have to be mounted outside (like on my GN). Anyone have pics of an F-body with externally mounted gauges???

 

the af gauge is NOT worthless,read y2k's post again, its what people do not understand that they fear.

the electrical boost gauge converts boost signal to electrical and then to mechanical display

the mechanical boost gauge goes from boost signal to mechanical

im sure they are both good but no sense in getting electric, it will display the same (looks) with he dial and sweep hand.

to get the boost gauge to read both, just mount the boost signal line off of a T in the back of the intake where the soft hose connection is going to the climate controls etc. in the manifold BEHIND THE THROTTLEBODY to get both boost and vaccum, in front of the throttle body will only get one of the 2

 

I read y2k's post, and it certainly made sense. The bad thing is that by the time you see that light, you're probably screwed. Seems that a dropping fuel pressure gauge would be a much better warning, but I realize that may not grab your attention as much as a light. I assumed that BlownHawk was questioning the validity of an A/F gauge as a tuning too, not an idiot light. Using the A/F gauge for tuning is like using the factory O2 readings..... they're just not accurate enough. If you get the car on the dyno, and see what factory O2 readings (Scanmaster, Atap, etc..) coincide with the proper A/F ratio, then it's a little better....... still nothing like a wide-band. I would recommend spending money on the FP pressure gauge long before the A/F idiot light.
The one advantage of getting an electric boost gauge is that some of them are supposed to hold peak value, which can be useful. I would still purchase mechanical.....Just my $.02
Anyone with pics of externally mounted gauges on an F-body???

 

I have the Autometer 5775 lowband A/F meter hooked up to one side 02 sensor and get mismatched readings when I hook up the datamaster program. Now, I have a bung welded on my y-pipe at the junction where the left and right header collectors intersect, I'm planning to disconnect the signal wire from the 02 sensor comming from the PCM and install an Autometer 2244 02 kit at the bung intersection and see if that gives me a more accurate reading. I've been looking at the wide band meters and you need an optional data logger for about $300.00 more.

 

9 year old thread brought back. This is an ls1tech record...i believe.

 

Holy thread revival!