Blackbird

i too had a leak at the return point at the oil cap.

it was just a faulty connector. when I really took a look I could see there was no way it could seal 100%. it appeared they just sent the wrong style to mate up with the female end.

sts sent me out a new one, no charge, that one has been working fine. they are just air compressor fittings. so you may want to check into that, could just be a simple fix for the oil drip.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Thanks Heath. It is actually leaking where the plastic piece goes into the valve cover. It looks to be the old too much internal pressure syndrom... Bob

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Keep in mind my customer had us build a forged stroker engine for his car, for longetivity, including the bottom end stud girdle.
FAST 90mm intake.
Nick Williams 90mm throttle body.
We had the transmission built by Rodney at RPM Transmission.
New Powerstop performance brakes.
New Spohn torque arm
New BMR sway bar
BMR control arm relocation brackets
Coil springs
New shocks
New M/T drag tires.
Gauges, including wide band.
60lb fuel injectors
Two fuel pumps.
PST 3.5" driveshaft
STS turbo with GT 67 turbo upgrade
STS bov
STS intercooler option
STS electronic boost controller

Bob

onfire

iTrader: (17)

What type of fuel system did you use Bob? Nice set-up.

boostedtransam

iTrader: (4)

hey Bob how did you solve the oil return pump problem?? You said the warning alarm was going off on the street at 11psi. Did you get a bigger pump?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Thanks! We used a Holley/Walbro pn 12-914 forced induction fuel pump, and also added a Kenne Bell Boost A Pump. Bob

Brent@LPE

I went with the 98-99 metal MAF for its ability to comprehend 511 gms/cyl/sec trying to acheive a "swing" tune for both boost settings,
After over 20 runs @ high boost (14-15) pounds ,and putting in a new plug in #7 virtually every pull,I feel we are safely @ our 620 goal !

EPP

iTrader: (22)

No, we screwed in the pressure adjustment one complete turn. Bob

RW99

Hey, Bob, congrats on the car. The above statement leads me to ask my "bypass valve vs. BOV" question. I have a PTK T67 FMIC/meth going into my '98 M6 (draw-through MAF setup, probably 10 psi max) right now, and the plan is to go with their bypass... Perhaps this is a moot point when going with the rear mount, I don't know. But I'd like to hear your opinion, especially if you think a BOV is preferable to a bypass.

Thanks,

Rich

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Rich, the way I see it there is really no difference between a bypass valve and a blow off valve. The only thing is to determine whether you want to vent to the atmosphere to hear the whoosh sound. The name "blow off valve" was coined somewhere along the line with the popularity of turbo's. many companies list the two under the same heading.

Here are two good articles on the bypass/bov valves. Bob

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/perf/bov.html

http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh11..._off_valve.htm

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

are the heads on this setup stock 241's.....how much do u think it would benefit with afr 225s?

EPP

iTrader: (22)

I don't know which heads are on this engine. The customer wanted to reuse his reworked heads that he already had on the engine. Brent and Chip might know which ones they are. AFR 225's more than likely would provide even more power, but it is hard to predict how much. The engine didn't respond as well to more boost as we thought it would. Is it the heads, camshaft profile, turbo's maxed out? We're not sure, swapping parts would be the best way to find out for sure. I doubt it is the cam, same profile we used on the twin turbo 790 rwhp Corvette, so that pretty much leaves it to the heads and turbo. Bob