Has anyone gotten tired of Forced Induction?
Originally Posted by The95Firehawk#250man
my 10 bolt is freshly rebuilt, if i got MT et streets would it hold? i figure it should with no hard launching. for a while i hope, mostly from 1st gear rolls though.
I wouldnt trust a 10 bolt as far as i can throw it.................... POS.... broke mine 3 times with Nitto Drag Radials......
Originally Posted by White.Lightning
LOL good point. So are the ET street radials a good choice for my rear tires?!?
Andy
Andy
Originally Posted by FIREHAWK#608
I guess "peakiness" was a bad description. Sorry. More like "bulk of power that hits hard when the power curve starts." On/Off
It's pretty clear now. FI and 600 hp is good I just need the widen my rims to 11" and get some stickier rubber for the time being until the combo changes.
It's pretty clear now. FI and 600 hp is good I just need the widen my rims to 11" and get some stickier rubber for the time being until the combo changes.
Traction can also be gained with the following items:
* Subframe connectors. Subframe connectors help to keep the cars body from twisting and stretching. I have seen these cars require a frame shop to get them back into shape after using sticky tires on the street. The car will handle better with subframe connectors, and they will enable more weight transfer to the back tires, as the energy that was trying to twist the body into a pretzel will now be transfering weight to the rear.
* An aftermarket K Member along with aftermarket upper and lower A Arms will remove some weight off the front of your car.
* The BMR battery box will relocate your battery to where the spare tire is located. This will take weight off the front and put it behind the right rear tire. You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes in traction, plus the car will handle better.
* Aftermarket torque arms will aid in planting the rear tires. Spohn, Global West and BMR make torque arms that relocate the front mount back behind the transmission. Besides taking a lot of stress off the transmission tailshaft, they offer better geometry for planting the tires.
* Lower control arm relocation mounts. These mounts were designed for cars that have been lowered to get the lower control arms back to their correct geometry, but we have also found they work on non lowered cars as well for gaining more traction.
* Higher strength lower control arms and a better panhard bar will reduce flex, helping in the traction department.
Combined with sticky tires, the car will hook much better with the above items. Bob
Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
Traction can also be gained with the following items:
* An aftermarket K Member along with aftermarket upper and lower A Arms will remove some weight off the front of your car.
* The BMR battery box will relocate your battery to where the spare tire is located. This will take weight off the front and put it behind the right rear tire. You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes in traction, plus the car will handle better.
* Aftermarket torque arms will aid in planting the rear tires. Spohn, Global West and BMR make torque arms that relocate the front mount back behind the transmission. Besides taking a lot of stress off the transmission tailshaft, they offer better geometry for planting the tires.
* An aftermarket K Member along with aftermarket upper and lower A Arms will remove some weight off the front of your car.
* The BMR battery box will relocate your battery to where the spare tire is located. This will take weight off the front and put it behind the right rear tire. You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes in traction, plus the car will handle better.
* Aftermarket torque arms will aid in planting the rear tires. Spohn, Global West and BMR make torque arms that relocate the front mount back behind the transmission. Besides taking a lot of stress off the transmission tailshaft, they offer better geometry for planting the tires.
Andy
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
I wouldnt trust a 10 bolt as far as i can throw it.................... POS.... broke mine 3 times with Nitto Drag Radials......
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
I wouldnt trust a 10 bolt as far as i can throw it.................... POS.... broke mine 3 times with Nitto Drag Radials......
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Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
Thank goodness I have an A4. My 10-bolt is still holding.
Ed i was a A4......
TCI 3500 stall and my D1-SC and 3.73's out back..... ran pretty good... the last set was still in there with quite a few passes... but none on slicks...... 
my 10 bolt has held up so far, its probably cause you changed the gearing. dunno.
as far as being sick of forced induction, I'll never be sick of it. boosted for the win!
The M/T ET radials are too sticky and too good of a tire to use on the street. I would not drive them in the rain at all. Same with the BFG's they wear out quick. The Nitto dr is your best bet. I've gotten a 1.6 out of 275 Nittos.
as far as being sick of forced induction, I'll never be sick of it. boosted for the win!
The M/T ET radials are too sticky and too good of a tire to use on the street. I would not drive them in the rain at all. Same with the BFG's they wear out quick. The Nitto dr is your best bet. I've gotten a 1.6 out of 275 Nittos.
Last edited by Got Me SOM; Mar 4, 2006 at 05:47 PM.
Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
Traction can also be gained with the following items:
* Subframe connectors. Subframe connectors help to keep the cars body from twisting and stretching. I have seen these cars require a frame shop to get them back into shape after using sticky tires on the street. The car will handle better with subframe connectors, and they will enable more weight transfer to the back tires, as the energy that was trying to twist the body into a pretzel will now be transfering weight to the rear.
* An aftermarket K Member along with aftermarket upper and lower A Arms will remove some weight off the front of your car.
* The BMR battery box will relocate your battery to where the spare tire is located. This will take weight off the front and put it behind the right rear tire. You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes in traction, plus the car will handle better.
* Aftermarket torque arms will aid in planting the rear tires. Spohn, Global West and BMR make torque arms that relocate the front mount back behind the transmission. Besides taking a lot of stress off the transmission tailshaft, they offer better geometry for planting the tires.
* Lower control arm relocation mounts. These mounts were designed for cars that have been lowered to get the lower control arms back to their correct geometry, but we have also found they work on non lowered cars as well for gaining more traction.
* Higher strength lower control arms and a better panhard bar will reduce flex, helping in the traction department.
Combined with sticky tires, the car will hook much better with the above items. Bob
* Subframe connectors. Subframe connectors help to keep the cars body from twisting and stretching. I have seen these cars require a frame shop to get them back into shape after using sticky tires on the street. The car will handle better with subframe connectors, and they will enable more weight transfer to the back tires, as the energy that was trying to twist the body into a pretzel will now be transfering weight to the rear.
* An aftermarket K Member along with aftermarket upper and lower A Arms will remove some weight off the front of your car.
* The BMR battery box will relocate your battery to where the spare tire is located. This will take weight off the front and put it behind the right rear tire. You would be amazed at how much of a difference this makes in traction, plus the car will handle better.
* Aftermarket torque arms will aid in planting the rear tires. Spohn, Global West and BMR make torque arms that relocate the front mount back behind the transmission. Besides taking a lot of stress off the transmission tailshaft, they offer better geometry for planting the tires.
* Lower control arm relocation mounts. These mounts were designed for cars that have been lowered to get the lower control arms back to their correct geometry, but we have also found they work on non lowered cars as well for gaining more traction.
* Higher strength lower control arms and a better panhard bar will reduce flex, helping in the traction department.
Combined with sticky tires, the car will hook much better with the above items. Bob
).
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Ed i was a A4...... TCI 3500 stall and my D1-SC and 3.73's out back..... ran pretty good... the last set was still in there with quite a few passes... but none on slicks......
TCI 3500 stall and my D1-SC and 3.73's out back..... ran pretty good... the last set was still in there with quite a few passes... but none on slicks......There's a local guy here (Cablebandit)that's runing 9's with a 10 bolt and he's broken it when he got really bad wheelhop on the line. He's been running the same one for years.
Mine was set-up by an old timer who's retired now and it has about 9k HARD miles on it and it's quieter than the factory 3.42's that came out. Zero sound. I'm using Motive gears which are believed to be one the quieter brands.
Here's something you can do now and won't cost much at all cause I know your supposed to wait till later because of the wedding. I don't know how much tread you have left on your tires now but a real cheap way to get traction is just get some Nitto drag radials that will fit your current rims. My 02 Z28 was dyno'd at 439 rwhp with an automatic and it would spin the stock tires at will. When I got the Nittos, it was like night and day. Mine were stock size, just 245/60 15, but they made such a big difference that I could finally use my power off the line. They are real cheap if you get the same size tire you have now and it will be kind of an experiment to let you know how the larger size will work out later. This gives you a way to have some fun now. Also, there are lots of guys getting over 10,000 miles on them. It just depends on how much you like to burn out.
Just saw them for $144 each in a P275/40ZR17
As far as tire pressure, I usually ran them at 30 psi and saw no big difference in cornering compared to the stock tire. With a 40 series, your not going to get much flex while cornering if you keep the pressure at a decent level.
Just saw them for $144 each in a P275/40ZR17
As far as tire pressure, I usually ran them at 30 psi and saw no big difference in cornering compared to the stock tire. With a 40 series, your not going to get much flex while cornering if you keep the pressure at a decent level.
Last edited by Silver02; Mar 5, 2006 at 03:21 PM.
sounds like you mabey need to listen to some different people
ive never experienced shuddering in any of the 3 bmr k member'd cars ive ridden in, and i also have my battery relocated to the back right corner not interfering with my t top spots.
ive never experienced shuddering in any of the 3 bmr k member'd cars ive ridden in, and i also have my battery relocated to the back right corner not interfering with my t top spots.
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
sounds like you mabey need to listen to some different people
ive never experienced shuddering in any of the 3 bmr k member'd cars ive ridden in, and i also have my battery relocated to the back right corner not interfering with my t top spots.
ive never experienced shuddering in any of the 3 bmr k member'd cars ive ridden in, and i also have my battery relocated to the back right corner not interfering with my t top spots.
Yep yep Just Like MM said....... its not blocking my t-tops....
Battery in the back.....
Kyle
I run 315 555 R1 on the road course and street. Yes the sidewall could be better (get RII) but it is good enough. Best all around street tire combo would be 315 RII rear and 275 RII front. But they dont make a 315 RII.
Rain sucks, but at least I can drive home in it.
If $ is the problem, get 275 RII on those rims. Just heat them up before launching.
Don't get a short torque arm until you understand the issues with braking.
Rain sucks, but at least I can drive home in it.
If $ is the problem, get 275 RII on those rims. Just heat them up before launching.
Don't get a short torque arm until you understand the issues with braking.
Nasty... that battery deal is pretty good looking,
SSpeedracer... yeah I found a guy here locally who is selling 2 chrome Firehawk rims with BG drag radials mounted. I think I'll try 'em out.
SSpeedracer... yeah I found a guy here locally who is selling 2 chrome Firehawk rims with BG drag radials mounted. I think I'll try 'em out.
........... Im tired of breaking stuff............ 
Originally Posted by FIREHAWK#608
I personally went on a quest with bolt ons and motor mods and now have around 420 rwhp. The 1st and 2nd gears are unusable (traction) and 3rd will light up if I floor it above 4k rpm
I want to change cams and charge it soon, but what's the point? Nice whistling sounds?
I'd want a lil more when I roll into it on the interstate in 4th or 5th, but other than that what good is 500+rwhp?
I want to change cams and charge it soon, but what's the point? Nice whistling sounds?
I'd want a lil more when I roll into it on the interstate in 4th or 5th, but other than that what good is 500+rwhp?
