~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

I personally went on a quest with bolt ons and motor mods and now have around 420 rwhp. The 1st and 2nd gears are unusable (traction) and 3rd will light up if I floor it above 4k rpm

I want to change cams and charge it soon, but what's the point? Nice whistling sounds?

I'd want a lil more when I roll into it on the interstate in 4th or 5th, but other than that what good is 500+rwhp?

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

Trick question????

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

Nope.

I'm mainly asking about the traction problems. If I'm at a stoplight and a Hyundai Tiburon with 170hp races me from a dig, I'm going to edge past him through 2nd spinning all the way even though I'm trying to modulate the throttle which isn't always easy with big cammed cars. (below x rpm it's dead, above x rpm it's wild power.)

Possibly getting smoked by a car with less than 1/2 the hp I already have is worrying me. I've actually thought of de-modding a little bit (smaller cam) to lessen the peakiness.

I'm wondering what's the sense having 550+ rwhp and realistically being able to put to the ground even though I have almost all the suspension mods.

white2001s10

iTrader: (4)

Swap to a powerglide

no such thing as too much power.

93formto98T/A

iTrader: (28)

Sounds like you need some stickey tires.

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

Never to much, step on up. You will be glad you did!

Bad30th

iTrader: (13)

Agreed, sounds like you need stickier tires. Nittos or BFG drag radials will plant your power to the ground so you can whoop up on that Hyundai.

Power is power, doesn't really matter how you're making it - N/A, FI, nitrous, whatever. You still need traction or the power will never live up to its potential.

...but the "whistly noise" is a nice bonus, you don't have to keep refilling bottles and the power is always there, and it's easier to maintain nice drivability/streetability while making big power.

Rob (Bad30th)

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

I've been telling myself I'm going to have the factory 9" wide Firehawk rims widened to 11" and put some KD's on but that's about the last option I have. Then think about adding 100+ EXTRA on top of the current and it simply makes me question why.

Do you guys(f-body) have traction issues with the Procharger type set ups? Power delivery wise?

Drewstein

What tires are you running? Once you make a particular power lvl, you have to commit to tires that may not last longer than 5k miles for daily driving. On 295 F1 supercar tires, I would spin at the top of 2nd and 3rd and it scared the crap out of me. My 315 DRs keep the car pointed in the right direction and shiny side up.

That said, with FI you have the option to turn it down for daily driving and then go to kill mode for racing. I prefer kill mode all the time because it would suck losing and thinking my car is handicapped.

Sonicmix

Tired? Heck no!! Addicted...well maybe. <----Denial, the first sign of addiction!
As mentioned by the posters above, get your traction issues under control, and up the boost. You will actually find that even though you have more power on tap, your power curve will be flatter, and smoother. Jump in, the boost is great!

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

Grip, grip and more grip is what you need. Also racing at stoplights is asking for trouble (lawsuits and tickets). Be careful.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

get some nittos, soundsw like i had more traction with my 512/536 numbers then you do with your 420.
i could spinn them up to third, but if i was just right on the peal i could keep traction when i wanted to

mdhmi

iTrader: (1)

Exactly. Running DR's on the street is just part of going FI.

Mark

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Semi-hijack here.....for your benefit, I'm in the same boat

How are the Mickey Thompson ET street radials with some rain? I mean not getting on it in the rain, just for scooting around town. My Camaro is a DD and with the D1sc going on, and me needing new tires, I was gonna get the ET street radials out back and some decent radials up front.

Opinions?!?!

Also, opinions for a halfway decent radial out front?

Thanks
Andy

~JOSHUA

iTrader: (92)

I had 275 Firehawk SZ50's (factory SLP), now I have Eagle F1's.

What tires aside from BF KD's should I use? This car never sees rain and is only driven 3k miles per year. It does have to have some sidewall though
(no drag radials) because I tear up the mountain twisties as often as possible.

Thanks guys.

Drewstein

Thank god I live in AZ and it hasn't rained in 130+ days, but I wouldn't suggest going over 45mph in a downpour.

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

et streets suck in rain, but are a great tire. as for front tires go you could get away with a pair of kumo 712's- 109 a tire. or go with the g-force kdws- 142 a tire

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Put some real tires on the car and you'll think it's slow.With the right suspension/tires you can hook 2nd-4th on the street with a 600rwhp combo.

BTW- the most I drove on the street was 750hp/750tq and I got bored of it within 2 days Next we are going for 900/900 on the street.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

LOL good point. So are the ET street radials a good choice for my rear tires?!?

Andy

kjmdrumz3

iTrader: (1)

As long as you have SOME tread left, you arent driving through a TSUNAMI, and you never ever go past 10% throttle you should be fine. Just use common sense. If you act stupid, you will wreck. Period. But wait til it gets dry. You'll remember why you bought the MT's to begin with