Can a stock 346ci aluminum block BUILT UP handle 800-850 rwhp on boost?
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Here is my question guys? If i go with a stock 346ci aluminum block BUILT UP with forged pistons, rods, and crank,will it handle 800-850 rwhp on boost of course? Or do you guys recomend going with an iron block 346ci? I know one thing if i go with iron or aluminum it will have AFR 225cc heads on it. So what do u guys think?
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There are many cases where they have hit this and or more....It's very doable and if you're wanting to stick to even more of a budget then you can get the stock crank to work...Look at the boosted list and you will see that several guys have....Stenoid, speedinc.com, and W2W are just a few...One thing that you need to know is that a good tune will get you really far in life...
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I would say it's doable too...but if you're gonna do that, why not just go iron block with more cubes?? Like the 370. And, the cost of an iron block 370 really isn't that bad, and I would think the iron block would be more durable. Is there a reason why you want a stock cube motor?
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So I can do an aluminum block with forged pistons, rods, and crank, and a good tune and the motor should be good for over 800 no problem? thats what i'm shooting for. I've seen alot of guys with 408's with boost, a friend of mine has a 370ci. I just figured why go big cubic inch when i should be able to produce over 800 rwhp on a 346ci. The reason for the stock cubic inch is for the RPM'S
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Originally Posted by nastysupaspt
So I can do an aluminum block with forged pistons, rods, and crank, and a good tune and the motor should be good for over 800 no problem? thats what i'm shooting for. I've seen alot of guys with 408's with boost, a friend of mine has a 370ci. I just figured why go big cubic inch when i should be able to produce over 800 rwhp on a 346ci. The reason for the stock cubic inch is for the RPM'S
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j/k...what do you want to rev this engine to? I'm gonna be revving mine to about 7200. Besides your ultimate plans are to turn this car into a track car anyway, so why worry about weight. I would think that if it's gonna be a track car, and making some serious power, you'd want a stronger setup. And from what I understand, the iron block will be stronger.
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Guys on this board making beyond 700rwhp with forced induction and driving their cars on the street in addition to racing (meaning more than a few thousand miles/yr) have found the stock LS1/LS6 block to lose ring seal after a while. I've read they pull the motor apart, hone, throw in new rings, and it is good for another few thousand miles.
The fix.... get an LS2 alum block. Problem solved.
The fix.... get an LS2 alum block. Problem solved.
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Originally Posted by 98turbls1
Well are you just going to be running the 800rwhp+ at the track or on the road all of the time?? If it's just for the track then yeah I would probably go that route...
Then again, he may have changed his mind.......again!!
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i want the car to be street and track. i don't plan on stripping the car. I want it full interior. I wanna be able to enjoy it on the street too. I can't see why a aluminum block can't be as strong as a iron block and hold 800+ rwhp. As long as i keep it stock cubic inch it should handle the power no problem. along with the lighter weight. Let me ask you guys this Mighty Mouse is running a stock ZO6 block. Thats aluminum right? he is pushing over 900 rwhp and traping 144mph.
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Well while I was back in Cali (in Iraq now!!!) I went to a shop called GEN III and he broke it down for me...What some people don't actually know is that the LS6 engine may not be as strong in some cases as the LS1...The reason for this is they have the windage holes below the cylinders where as the early LS1 has them through the middle...Some later model Camaros actually have the LS6 block in them from what he was telling me...But I know that Stenoid was hitting mid to high 8's with their TT kit and a 346 aluminum...It can be done and they drove the hell out of that car...it's just you need to have really tight tolerances and use really good studs and everything to gusset the bottom end from walking on you...
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You said you wanted to keep a 346 for the revs but remember the iron 370/364 is also stock displacement and will rev just as high. The iron block is two fold stronger than the alum. If you're set on the alum block then you may want to consider an engine girdle so you won't get too much flex.
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at 850 ur running a BIG risk on that aluminum block. the block material is just not strong enough to hold those pressures. u will distort those sleeves, and/or blow a hole in the side of the block. sure, others have done it in the past, so im not saying it cant be done on an ls1, but i am sayin ur running a huge risk. if ur building for 850hp, do the smart thing, buy a new iron block for 700 and be done. going from a 346 to a 364 is not a huge leap at all.
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Originally Posted by Turbo LS1 SS
at 850 ur running a BIG risk on that aluminum block. the block material is just not strong enough to hold those pressures. u will distort those sleeves, and/or blow a hole in the side of the block. sure, others have done it in the past, so im not saying it cant be done on an ls1, but i am sayin ur running a huge risk. if ur building for 850hp, do the smart thing, buy a new iron block for 700 and be done. going from a 346 to a 364 is not a huge leap at all.
Plus, unless you already have an AL block, the Iron block is way cheaper. Like $400-500 cheaper New vs New.
I was trying to do an AL block for the 400+ blower motor I'm building up, but it's not worth it in the long run. Try talking to Erik Konig @ HPE. He'll spend an hour talking your ear off about oiling alone. And he's a hugh fan of the Iron blocks when you start making anything over 500 rwhp.
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Originally Posted by Turbo LS1 SS
at 850 ur running a BIG risk on that aluminum block. the block material is just not strong enough to hold those pressures. u will distort those sleeves, and/or blow a hole in the side of the block. sure, others have done it in the past, so im not saying it cant be done on an ls1, but i am sayin ur running a huge risk. if ur building for 850hp, do the smart thing, buy a new iron block for 700 and be done. going from a 346 to a 364 is not a huge leap at all.
nobody has had a problem with the stregth till past 1300hp
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Man you guys are confusing the **** out me. ![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
I know what your saying with the strength of the iron block, but i'm sure the aluminum block can do the job too. But on the other hand all i'm doin it for is the weight it might not be worth it. I'm going to be getting the engine built by LME and i've never seen them build a bad engine so will see.
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
I know what your saying with the strength of the iron block, but i'm sure the aluminum block can do the job too. But on the other hand all i'm doin it for is the weight it might not be worth it. I'm going to be getting the engine built by LME and i've never seen them build a bad engine so will see.
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Originally Posted by nastysupaspt
Man you guys are confusing the **** out me. ![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
I know what your saying with the strength of the iron block, but i'm sure the aluminum block can do the job too. But on the other hand all i'm doin it for is the weight it might not be worth it. I'm going to be getting the engine built by LME and i've never seen them build a bad engine so will see.
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
I know what your saying with the strength of the iron block, but i'm sure the aluminum block can do the job too. But on the other hand all i'm doin it for is the weight it might not be worth it. I'm going to be getting the engine built by LME and i've never seen them build a bad engine so will see.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
Yes the aluminum block will handle 800-850rwhp.Just getting there is the hard part.