delusion

iTrader: (1)

i've had my P1SC for over 30k miles now. i always changed the oil every 6k miles, but 1 time i procrastinated it and changed it pretty late, but i dont race the car or anything just daily drove it for 60 miles every weekday. The procharger started making a squeek noise at idle everytime the car would get hot. It is nice and quiet when i first start it, then when the engine reaches normal operating temps it begins to squeek at idle. it sounds alot like crickets, its a very short rapid squeek. very annoying/embarassing.

upon inspection of the system, i saw my idler pulley was grinded down, so i had it replaced with a new one same size and stuff... heres the pic of the old one...

When i tried to spin it with my fingers it felt like the bearings in side were messed up because it wouldnt spin freely like the new one, so i thought that was it.

the noise went away for maybe a month or 2... then came back. i checked on the new pulley, it looked like it was getting grinded down too, it was completely black but now i saw silver grooves and cuts in it...

What do you guys think the problem is, i never replaced my belt, could that be it? It didnt look badly worn or anything.

What do you suggest i do? thanks.

Red97Z

iTrader: (22)

i dont think a belt would do that..did you check the tension of the belt, was it loose or overly tight?

delusion

iTrader: (1)

its very tight, to prevent any slippage.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

My guess is you have some belt misalignment going on, it might of happened when you replaced the pulley. I would also replace the belt. I have seen belts wear uneven when a pulley goes bad, which could indeed cause wear on the new pulley surface. Bob

MIGHTYMOUSE

iTrader: (59)

i recall years ago that this was going around alot, and then some guy started selling harder replacement pulleys. anybody else remember that?

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

My pulley is in some what of the same condition. But not near as bad.
Back side of the belt looks fine with the exception of a bit of metal transfer.
Which would make sense for the wear condition.

I wonder if it is due to much tension on the belt. To cause accelerated wear on the pulley.

I have noticed if the pulley shaft bolt is left to loose when tensioning the belt, it will **** to the side real bad, to the extent where it will come in contact with the bracket. And then when tightened up it still will not come true unless you really torque it down!

Is it standard for a serpentine belt to be loaded--tensioned from the back side?

delusion

iTrader: (1)

my mechanic said the same thing... does anyone know where i could get a harder pulley?

JAILBAIT

what type of belt are you using? gates dayco goodyear?

DarkFormula

iTrader: (80)

It's from the idler being made of aluminum and running high tension on the belt to prevent slippage. Mine did the same thing.

There was a guy here years ago that made steel idler replacements, which I've been running for awhile and it's still in the same condition it was when installed. However, I have had to replace the bearings once, which are expensive and I'd only found them through Napa (Like $18/each). I do have a bearing press at work, so I made out there.

My recommendation is to either:

1) Find the steel upgrade idler

2) Reduce belt tension (although you may slip now)

3) Upgrade to the SDPC idler setup or go 8-rib

Also, run some sort of gripping belt like the Dayco Polycog or Goodyear Gatorback.

buschman

I remember back in the day when all this was happening. With the solid tension setup you really have the tighten it down hard to overcome the belt expanding at high RPMs. Tightening it down puts strain on the system and usually effects the idler first. So the aluminum ones wear down after a while, but they are easier on the idler bearings because the pully itself is lighter, dosen't absorb as much heat as steel, and has less rotational mass. The option many used to use back in the day was to get a steel idler. The idler won't grind down anymore, but you'll go through bearings faster. I'd buy them in quantities of 8-10. With the steel pulley depending on how much you drive you could need new bearings every ~5K miles.

Look at SDCE's spring tension kit. It's the only true relief for your problem.

Mike

Ponyhntr

iTrader: (9)

ATI now uses a hard-coat anodizing process that should prevent the wear that has been common on the idlers in the past. They just switched over about a month ago, so time will tell how it actually works.

delusion

iTrader: (1)

looks like i will be trying it out on my system. i called up procharger and asked them about this and ended up ordering one. thanks all

618HAWK

iTrader: (361)

I also had to order a new one today. Seemed to be getting a lot worse now that Ihave looked at it.
Damm they hit me for 80+ $$ for a dam pulley. They also tell me that 3 years is good for the time I got out of it.

Is there any one who sells these?

BIG BAD BLACKSS

iTrader: (4)

Humm i guess my new system i just ordered will have the hard-coat then. Shweet.

SSmokin 01

iTrader: (14)

Yeah like everyone said, the bearings get "smoked" from the extreme tension. The pulley just wears because of it being aluminum with there now old (I guess) hardening coat.
I went through one and got banged for that $80 replacement until I bought the steel idler.

IIRC "CamaroGod" is who used to make that steel idler.
The issue you run into with that is it's alot heavier, holds more stored energy with the weight, doesn't spin up as fast, and gets hot and holds the heat.

It would melt the back side of the belt some and eventually cut it in half. Bearings didn't last to long either.
It doesn't wear at all though. I ended up drilling it to lighten and also help cool.
No issues after that with it. I changed idler bearings when I changed the Procharger oil. Sold it to a member of the board.

I still fought the belt slip and finally ended up with the SDCE tensioner.

The bearings are from NAPA PN 6203-2RSJ and
you need 2 of them. It's good to just have a few around though.
They go for $10.50 a piece. You also don't need a press to put them in. They drop right in but you have to be perfectly flat. If its "cocked" just slightly it'll feel like they don't fit.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+Shaft+Bearing

delusion

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the help all, i installed the new pulley with the harder anodized coating on it. noise is gone. i only drove for 10 miles and did not see WOT. we'll see how it goes. i tightened it a bit less than last time. i did not change the belt because i couldnt see the size of it on the belt and its a PITA to get it out.