Sts - Wrapped Exhaust -- Inside!!!!!
#121
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I would definitely do number two... If your turbo is anywhere in the vicinity of the radiator like mine, the blanket really works... I never see temps above 210, even after some severe beatings:
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#122
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Lets see I am going to wrap and spray paint the exhaust......and going to find a turbo blanket of course for my turbo....but I am not going to do that until the car goes on the dyno then have the shop guys put the blanket and stuff on the car and see the difference if it is worth it or not
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hey Protovette, you will def. notice a difference in noise. I met a guy at the track who I thought had long tubes, turns out he just gutted his cats. It will most certainly effect you emissions, absolutly. But if you do gut them, you should be able to wrap the whole exhaust because once gutted, its just another piece of pipe. Shouldn't be a smell, cause bad cats smell, not no cats LOL. The only guy I've watched gut cats, well he used a broom stick handle and just started mashing away
Good luck
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#124
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Originally Posted by Bankz27
Lets see I am going to wrap and spray paint the exhaust......and going to find a turbo blanket of course for my turbo....but I am not going to do that until the car goes on the dyno then have the shop guys put the blanket and stuff on the car and see the difference if it is worth it or not
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Originally Posted by bboyferal
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I would definitely do number two... If your turbo is anywhere in the vicinity of the radiator like mine, the blanket really works... I never see temps above 210, even after some severe beatings:
![](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b361/Bboyferal/Install%20complete/DSCN0173.jpg)
2 things though :
1. They dont make a turbo blanket from what I understand that fits a GT55 yet.
2. I dont even know if it would fit as I hear they are pretty thick, so Im not sure if theres enough clearence for one.
Would wrapping the downpipe and headers be a signifigant help with my warm engine temp problem, or just mainly the turbo being controlled?
#126
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It will most certainly effect you emissions, absolutly.
#127
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if you gut your cats your basically running race pipes (nothing to convert unburnt fuel into less toxic crap) so there is a very high probability that you wont pass if you need to do the sniffer test.
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Originally Posted by Blackbird
so lots of talk, anybody done this yet besides Zombie?
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#132
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I did it on my truck and it made a pretty good difference in spool up time and it will build boost at lower RPM's going down the high way much easier. Will also brake stall into boost easier. I'm very happy with it. I got the header wrap from eBay for cheep ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
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Last edited by kbracing96; 08-09-2006 at 02:44 PM.
#133
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A couple people have PM'd me for these. These show the 2-layer approach I took. The first layer is 2000 degree, HD aluminum-backed ceramic batting from Longacre Racing. You put the seams down for water drainage:
Second, you wrap header wrap on top of the 1st layer - not too tight, just snug. You don't want to fully compress the ceramic batting as it cuts down on its insulative properties. If you wrap from the rear to the front the wrap will last a lot longer because the leading edge is not exposed to the airstream:
I used Thermo-Tec 50'x2" rolls on the pipes and mufflers. It took 1 roll for each side. My LT headers are Jet-Hot coated so the cannot be wrapped after coating - it burns off then rusts bad.
Use good quality hose clamps, not those cheap Chinese crap things. Or you can use the Thermo-Tec Snap Straps, but IMO they are too $$$.
Save the scraps of header wrap and ceramic batting because they come in handy for insulating small things.
Here's the link for the Longacre Batting: http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=127&catid=4
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
![](http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/4dr_exhaust_wrapped1.jpg)
Second, you wrap header wrap on top of the 1st layer - not too tight, just snug. You don't want to fully compress the ceramic batting as it cuts down on its insulative properties. If you wrap from the rear to the front the wrap will last a lot longer because the leading edge is not exposed to the airstream:
![](http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/4dr_exhaust_wrapped2a.jpg)
I used Thermo-Tec 50'x2" rolls on the pipes and mufflers. It took 1 roll for each side. My LT headers are Jet-Hot coated so the cannot be wrapped after coating - it burns off then rusts bad.
Use good quality hose clamps, not those cheap Chinese crap things. Or you can use the Thermo-Tec Snap Straps, but IMO they are too $$$.
Save the scraps of header wrap and ceramic batting because they come in handy for insulating small things.
Here's the link for the Longacre Batting: http://www.longacreracing.com/catalo...id=127&catid=4
Jim
My Site: http://home.mindspring.com/~jim_fisk/id1.html
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Originally Posted by Blackbird
so lots of talk, anybody done this yet besides Zombie?
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Originally Posted by JAvenger007
As in a car will not pass due to gutted cats? Or are these cars emission friendly enough to get by in the more lenient states? So as far as emissions, gutted cats will only pass the visual inspection?
As long as his car is tuned, he will pass emissions. I passed in Lancaster County and passed easy with a P1SC, 38# injectors, long tubes, no cats and a dynomax bullet muffler FYI.
#136
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If you are running stock system (stainless) you will not need to worry about it rusting out. If you run mild steel you will definitely have problems.
That is interesting about going under the axle, do you flange it on each end?
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Chris
That is interesting about going under the axle, do you flange it on each end?
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Chris