The Real Price of Forced Induction
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Originally Posted by Red Chevy 1_Z28
when i want to get between 600 to 650 rwhp, what should i do ??
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Originally Posted by Red Chevy 1_Z28
Did you mean 6.0 heads + cam + turbo kit will be enough to make 650 rwhp ??
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Originally Posted by Red Chevy 1_Z28
should i use standard 6.0 cylinder heads or after market?.....and what is the best??
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Originally Posted by QuickdomesticRacer
Where did you find the prices you did for the parts list (in the first post).
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Originally Posted by QuickdomesticRacer
Patriot Dbl Spring Kit.
Rollmaster T/C
Dynotune AFR setup
Are 60lb'ers really needed, or will SVO 42lb'ers work?
Rollmaster T/C
Dynotune AFR setup
Are 60lb'ers really needed, or will SVO 42lb'ers work?
rollmaster timing chain--- byunspeed
i didnt end up getting the dyno tune a/f i got the AEM from byunspeed, but the dynotune for that price is over in the "sponsor sales" section and ull see it, its a big thread over there
for the price y not get 60s, u wont have to upgrade them later and u need them to go over around 600crank power
for the lt1 stuff i have a few questions hopefully somone will look at this.
for the timing chain whens the stock lt1 good too. and is the lt4 a ton better or is there something else out there.
im going to go with aem tru boost controller what gauges will i still need? Where to get them? what brand? i keep looking and its like 200 for a fuel pressure gauge i rather spend that much on something else.
what does the wideband do better then a regular a/f gauge if i know how to read it?
for the timing chain whens the stock lt1 good too. and is the lt4 a ton better or is there something else out there.
im going to go with aem tru boost controller what gauges will i still need? Where to get them? what brand? i keep looking and its like 200 for a fuel pressure gauge i rather spend that much on something else.
what does the wideband do better then a regular a/f gauge if i know how to read it?
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on our turbo "kits" which i think can be a waste of money if you can't find the parts your self for cheaper. And not be afraid of ebay or craigslist for simple stuff. but my question is our they using dual or single wastegates and were are they normally places on a front mounted single turbo(only looking for 450whp-500whp out of stock lm7 with ls6 intake and water menth, and rod bolts cam and springs) and what size. I am use to smaller turbo engines where a 38mm would be alright but a 42mm then that be more then big enough what does it take for the lsx engines?
Last edited by 535ls1mike; Feb 23, 2007 at 06:23 PM.
Great thread.
I want to add that you would be better of with either two wideband controllers, or one dual-channel.
Also, I didn't see EGT gauges - these would be WAAAAY more useful than fuel pressure, so you would know when you are melting your toys.
Also some knock detection system would be almost required, unless stock LS1 system is OK.
My .02
I want to add that you would be better of with either two wideband controllers, or one dual-channel.
Also, I didn't see EGT gauges - these would be WAAAAY more useful than fuel pressure, so you would know when you are melting your toys.
Also some knock detection system would be almost required, unless stock LS1 system is OK.
My .02
Originally Posted by mdhmi
Here is a quick breakdown for my combo to give you an idea:
-- Motor - forged 346 w/ AFR heads and custom cam, LS6 intake. Comp 921 springs. $8,000
-- Turbo kit - $9,000
-- Fuel pump, 60 # injectors, KB BAP, Meth kit - $1,500
-- Built 4L6X, Yank Convertor, trans cooler, etc - $4,500
-- Borla catback + x-pipe - $750
-- Blitz EBC w/ LC-1 WB02 + Boost/fuel gauges - $1,250
That's $25,000 and that's not adding one dime for labor (other than assembling the motor).
-- Motor - forged 346 w/ AFR heads and custom cam, LS6 intake. Comp 921 springs. $8,000
-- Turbo kit - $9,000
-- Fuel pump, 60 # injectors, KB BAP, Meth kit - $1,500
-- Built 4L6X, Yank Convertor, trans cooler, etc - $4,500
-- Borla catback + x-pipe - $750
-- Blitz EBC w/ LC-1 WB02 + Boost/fuel gauges - $1,250
That's $25,000 and that's not adding one dime for labor (other than assembling the motor).
However, if you dont need the motor build, than knock that off. Fuel is a necessity and i wouldn't cut corners on that. What really gets ya is the extras like drivetrain, tires, wheels, suspension, safety gear, etc.
FI isnt a 7K ordeal... maybe for those that refuse to buy some elses stuff and stretch the dollar to 2 cents per penny!!
Good sticky and write-up!!
this isn't my plan but its possible so i'll ask it, say i got a vortech or procharger kit.... for what is it like $4k-6k? Would I be able to throw that on and run at 5-7PSI and have 425 RWHP without spending $1,000,000 on little details?
of course change injectors and fuel pump too
of course change injectors and fuel pump too
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Originally Posted by SchultzLT1
this isn't my plan but its possible so i'll ask it, say i got a vortech or procharger kit.... for what is it like $4k-6k? Would I be able to throw that on and run at 5-7PSI and have 425 RWHP without spending $1,000,000 on little details?
of course change injectors and fuel pump too
of course change injectors and fuel pump too
minimum power on each kit would be in the 450-470 range.
with heads/cam you may make the same peak power number but you won't have the torque and you will be limited to that power level. you will want more power trust me.
and you will never know how much fun it is to enjoy the feeling of booooooost.
nobody said going fast was cheap... it sucks.
just buy my car for 22 grand and sell yours.
I'm thinking I need to get outta the game for a while and focus on other things for the time being..
with heads/cam you may make the same peak power number but you won't have the torque and you will be limited to that power level. you will want more power trust me.
and you will never know how much fun it is to enjoy the feeling of booooooost.
nobody said going fast was cheap... it sucks.
just buy my car for 22 grand and sell yours.
I'm thinking I need to get outta the game for a while and focus on other things for the time being..