who has actually maxed out a p1sc procharger
01-01-2007, 01:01 PM
#61
Originally Posted by andereck
ATI will convert a P1SC to a D1SC for about $1300.
The SDCE modification to the ATI bracket merely adds a spring tensioner to the existing setup. It does not significantly increase beltwrap, which is already excellent. The spring tensioner takes up belt growth at rpm. As the ATI setup uses a very short belt, growth is not much of an issue. Manually tensioning the belt can apply more preload than the spring tensioner. In nearly all cases properly tensioning the ATI bracket eliminates boost limiting slip. It should be readjusted after a new belt has had a bit of time to run in.
The SDCE modification to the ATI bracket merely adds a spring tensioner to the existing setup. It does not significantly increase beltwrap, which is already excellent. The spring tensioner takes up belt growth at rpm. As the ATI setup uses a very short belt, growth is not much of an issue. Manually tensioning the belt can apply more preload than the spring tensioner. In nearly all cases properly tensioning the ATI bracket eliminates boost limiting slip. It should be readjusted after a new belt has had a bit of time to run in.
whoaaa sounds like someone works for ATI LOL
the $1300 price you was quoted was my point....... $200 in the beginning is alot diff. then $1300....
The setup (SDCE) does work better then ATI's 8 rib setup... been there tried to push it....
Belt growth is the issue we ALL fight with a blower setup and it IS an issue that ATI finally addressed and it was to late.... SDCE got there first with a better product....
01-01-2007, 01:36 PM
#62
Not to argue about it but the spring tensioner offers a few advantages. Just straight preload is fine but if there is any runout anywhere it amplifies the slip issues. And yes you can preload the 'regular' 8 rib higher but thats also harder on idlers, bearings and brackets. Even with a 6 rib you can have no slip and max a P1 if you really crank the belt, unfortunately I also used to go through idler pulleys and bearings at a pretty good rate.
As far as belt wrap the ATI 8 rib has just as much or more as the SDCE, thats is true.
Without a doubt the ATI 8 rib is more then enough for most, its a huge improvement over the 6 rib. Personally I prefer having less tension on the belt and pulleys and the SDCE has worked very well for me but thats not saying the regular 8 rib setup WONT work for most. But to be honest I have never tried the newer ATI 8 rib setup, it probably would work OK but I would have to keep after the belt a lot more where its pretty much throw a belt on it and not worry about it for a season now.
My simple advice is to try the regular 8 rib setup, if it works for what you are doing then you can put the 700.00 the SDCE costs into your fuel system or whatever - not everone is building a 9 second drag car or 900hp dyno warrior. If you have slip problems trying to max a D1/P1 or whatever then spend the money. I'm a firm believer in not fixing what isnt broke and if it works for you just leave it
As far as belt wrap the ATI 8 rib has just as much or more as the SDCE, thats is true.
Without a doubt the ATI 8 rib is more then enough for most, its a huge improvement over the 6 rib. Personally I prefer having less tension on the belt and pulleys and the SDCE has worked very well for me but thats not saying the regular 8 rib setup WONT work for most. But to be honest I have never tried the newer ATI 8 rib setup, it probably would work OK but I would have to keep after the belt a lot more where its pretty much throw a belt on it and not worry about it for a season now.
My simple advice is to try the regular 8 rib setup, if it works for what you are doing then you can put the 700.00 the SDCE costs into your fuel system or whatever - not everone is building a 9 second drag car or 900hp dyno warrior. If you have slip problems trying to max a D1/P1 or whatever then spend the money. I'm a firm believer in not fixing what isnt broke and if it works for you just leave it
01-01-2007, 04:27 PM
#63
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I have a p1 with the shitty 6 rib and my belt is cranked and i still get slip at 5500+ i just keep tightening it and donesnt stop so im gonna go 8 rib and sdce and hopefully kp's old D1SC could find a home under my hood HAHA.
01-01-2007, 04:32 PM
#64
Originally Posted by Whitez406
I have a p1 with the shitty 6 rib and my belt is cranked and i still get slip at 5500+ i just keep tightening it and donesnt stop so im gonna go 8 rib and sdce and hopefully kp's old D1SC could find a home under my hood HAHA.
I still havent ran this F1 yet, maybe next weekend..
01-01-2007, 04:48 PM
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See i dont like the tight belt deal tho. I would rather pay to the sdce setup. Im on the second idler and its only got like 6000 miles on it. Belts way to tight but it still slips and i tryed differant belts. Could cahnge to better pullies but still old school the self tensioned ones are awesome and im gonna go that route.
01-02-2007, 04:14 AM
#66
We run the standard ATI ProCharger eight rib set-up through 12 psi without any problems. Past that we have found that running a larger air filter and inlet pipe eliminates the best slippage we were having at 14 to 16 psi. Apparently the filter became such a restriction that it was putting quite a load on the blower, as once we eliminated the restriction the difference was quite apparent. Bob
04-08-2007, 11:30 AM
#67
Just thought I'd add to this thread now that I have some good input on this subject. I just recently got my new setup up and running (https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691857).
Anyways, I got 545/494 on my forged 347 with a 3.4" pulley on my P-1SC with the filter and hat on it saw 11psi.
When I took the hat and filter off, it made 632/533 and made 14psi! On this run, I maxed out my MAF. So just to step back and look at it all, if I can get a bigger filter and somehow eliminate the sharp 90° hat, the P-1SC should be more than enough to feed a 346 or 347. In fact, this was the deciding factor for me when I was planning out my build. I built the motor for the P-1SC. If I had a D-1SC I would have gone with a 383. But I think that a 383 would have made less HP with a P-1SC than my 347 did. Just like with anything else, you need to match your entire setup to work on the same level, and bigger isn't always better.
Anyways, I got 545/494 on my forged 347 with a 3.4" pulley on my P-1SC with the filter and hat on it saw 11psi.
When I took the hat and filter off, it made 632/533 and made 14psi! On this run, I maxed out my MAF. So just to step back and look at it all, if I can get a bigger filter and somehow eliminate the sharp 90° hat, the P-1SC should be more than enough to feed a 346 or 347. In fact, this was the deciding factor for me when I was planning out my build. I built the motor for the P-1SC. If I had a D-1SC I would have gone with a 383. But I think that a 383 would have made less HP with a P-1SC than my 347 did. Just like with anything else, you need to match your entire setup to work on the same level, and bigger isn't always better.
04-08-2007, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ChevyChad
Just thought I'd add to this thread now that I have some good input on this subject. I just recently got my new setup up and running (https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691857).
Anyways, I got 545/494 on my forged 347 with a 3.4" pulley on my P-1SC with the filter and hat on it saw 11psi.
When I took the hat and filter off, it made 632/533 and made 14psi! On this run, I maxed out my MAF. So just to step back and look at it all, if I can get a bigger filter and somehow eliminate the sharp 90° hat, the P-1SC should be more than enough to feed a 346 or 347. In fact, this was the deciding factor for me when I was planning out my build. I built the motor for the P-1SC. If I had a D-1SC I would have gone with a 383. But I think that a 383 would have made less HP with a P-1SC than my 347 did. Just like with anything else, you need to match your entire setup to work on the same level, and bigger isn't always better.
Anyways, I got 545/494 on my forged 347 with a 3.4" pulley on my P-1SC with the filter and hat on it saw 11psi.
When I took the hat and filter off, it made 632/533 and made 14psi! On this run, I maxed out my MAF. So just to step back and look at it all, if I can get a bigger filter and somehow eliminate the sharp 90° hat, the P-1SC should be more than enough to feed a 346 or 347. In fact, this was the deciding factor for me when I was planning out my build. I built the motor for the P-1SC. If I had a D-1SC I would have gone with a 383. But I think that a 383 would have made less HP with a P-1SC than my 347 did. Just like with anything else, you need to match your entire setup to work on the same level, and bigger isn't always better.
05-04-2008, 01:29 PM
#72
I have a d-1sc and was running 10 psi at 6300 and made 575rwhp........so with a cam, exhaust, and meth I don't see why you cant make at least 550
mine was on 6-rib
can't wait till my motor is back from epp and try out my sdce and see what the d1 can really do
mine was on 6-rib
can't wait till my motor is back from epp and try out my sdce and see what the d1 can really do
05-04-2008, 06:52 PM
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Back during winter we put on a 3.0 6-rib pulley & restalled the converter to 4200. Seeing 8-9lbs of boost have and zero belt slip issues. It's a totally different car. In the 10s for sure. ...dyno numbers dont mean chit IMO.
05-05-2008, 04:37 AM
#74
We're on it! Your engine showed up the other day. Bob
08-13-2011, 05:01 PM
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Some questions all over the board... Realize this is a thread digger but there is some really inspiring numbers in here wether there is a difference in dynos or not... Please be patient with me, as i am kinda new with the blower stuff and have been reading up as much as i can.
i planned on going single turbo, and already put together/got most of the parts, however may ALSO be acquiring a p1sc procharger kit for some parts in trade off another car thats designed for my ls2 gto..
Figured I would take my g6x3 cam out for something more suitable?, and toss the p1sc on quickly before the summer is over for some quick fun!......as opposed to having the car down fabricating the turbo kit while its so nice outside.
I was going to use the tial q valve i already have (as opposed to a race bypass valve), and I may reconsider and just use the treadstone 24x12x3.5 intercooler i have as well to upgrade the existing pro charger one?
With the smaller head unit (as opposed to a d1 or f1), is it even worth my time to upgrade this stuff from the existing p1 kit? Its going on a stock internals ls2 for now, however i have a pretty extensive bolt on list complete with everything from fast 102/102 all the way down to stuff like electric water pump, a/c removed, HUGE fuel system already ready(aside from injectors),large exhaust....
Id assume in time ill sell the p1 head unit+ the turbo i have, (possibly scrapping the turbo idea entirely), and swap out the p1 head unit for a larger one(d1 or f1)when i put a forged 370-408 assembly in it this winter. Another aspect ive already got is a pretty gnarley nitrous system with a nano kit, speed mapped progressive/boost dependent nitrous controller, blabla.. I realize its not meth, lol, but couldnt i spray a smaller shot so i can at least get some use out of this nitrous kit.?. I have a feeling some rods through the block are in my future. LOFL.. Worst case i can just leave the nitrous off the car for now, but id like to make some SOLID numbers with all these parts ive got since bolting this stuff on and fabbing up the intercooler/bov is MUCH easier than building a turbo kit from scratch.
I hope that was not too confusing. Im sure a lot has to do with cam selection also, as it all depends as well on the compression/displacement of the setup. IMO swapping a cam in now thats setup for my stock longblock ls2 is not that big of a deal since when it goes forged its all getting changed anyways. Id like to find something with a rough idle, as i dont really care about the cam issues since i drive daily with a g6x3. Just really hurts me a little inside losing this rowdy idle i guess. Prolly the inner riceboy in me. haha..
Dont mean to be all over the place...Just trying to maximize with what ive got. Theres some peckerwood imports locally i need to eliminate before the pavement gets too cold. The more the power i can make, the better..lol
i planned on going single turbo, and already put together/got most of the parts, however may ALSO be acquiring a p1sc procharger kit for some parts in trade off another car thats designed for my ls2 gto..
Figured I would take my g6x3 cam out for something more suitable?, and toss the p1sc on quickly before the summer is over for some quick fun!......as opposed to having the car down fabricating the turbo kit while its so nice outside.
I was going to use the tial q valve i already have (as opposed to a race bypass valve), and I may reconsider and just use the treadstone 24x12x3.5 intercooler i have as well to upgrade the existing pro charger one?
With the smaller head unit (as opposed to a d1 or f1), is it even worth my time to upgrade this stuff from the existing p1 kit? Its going on a stock internals ls2 for now, however i have a pretty extensive bolt on list complete with everything from fast 102/102 all the way down to stuff like electric water pump, a/c removed, HUGE fuel system already ready(aside from injectors),large exhaust....
Id assume in time ill sell the p1 head unit+ the turbo i have, (possibly scrapping the turbo idea entirely), and swap out the p1 head unit for a larger one(d1 or f1)when i put a forged 370-408 assembly in it this winter. Another aspect ive already got is a pretty gnarley nitrous system with a nano kit, speed mapped progressive/boost dependent nitrous controller, blabla.. I realize its not meth, lol, but couldnt i spray a smaller shot so i can at least get some use out of this nitrous kit.?. I have a feeling some rods through the block are in my future. LOFL.. Worst case i can just leave the nitrous off the car for now, but id like to make some SOLID numbers with all these parts ive got since bolting this stuff on and fabbing up the intercooler/bov is MUCH easier than building a turbo kit from scratch.
I hope that was not too confusing. Im sure a lot has to do with cam selection also, as it all depends as well on the compression/displacement of the setup. IMO swapping a cam in now thats setup for my stock longblock ls2 is not that big of a deal since when it goes forged its all getting changed anyways. Id like to find something with a rough idle, as i dont really care about the cam issues since i drive daily with a g6x3. Just really hurts me a little inside losing this rowdy idle i guess. Prolly the inner riceboy in me. haha..
Dont mean to be all over the place...Just trying to maximize with what ive got. Theres some peckerwood imports locally i need to eliminate before the pavement gets too cold. The more the power i can make, the better..lol
08-16-2011, 07:08 AM
#77
Realize this is a thread digger but there is some really inspiring numbers in here wether there is a difference in dynos or not... Please be patient with me, as i am kinda new with the blower stuff and have been reading up as much as i can.
i planned on going single turbo, and already put together/got most of the parts, however may ALSO be acquiring a p1sc procharger kit for some parts in trade off another car thats designed for my ls2 gto..
Figured I would take my g6x3 cam out for something more suitable?, and toss the p1sc on quickly before the summer is over for some quick fun!......as opposed to having the car down fabricating the turbo kit while its so nice outside.
I was going to use the tial q valve i already have (as opposed to a race bypass valve), and I may reconsider and just use the treadstone 24x12x3.5 intercooler i have as well to upgrade the existing pro charger one?
With the smaller head unit (as opposed to a d1 or f1), is it even worth my time to upgrade this stuff from the existing p1 kit? Its going on a stock internals ls2 for now, however i have a pretty extensive bolt on list complete with everything from fast 102/102 all the way down to stuff like electric water pump, a/c removed, HUGE fuel system already ready(aside from injectors),large exhaust....
Id assume in time ill sell the p1 head unit+ the turbo i have, (possibly scrapping the turbo idea entirely), and swap out the p1 head unit for a larger one(d1 or f1)when i put a forged 370-408 assembly in it this winter. Another aspect ive already got is a pretty gnarley nitrous system with a nano kit, speed mapped progressive/boost dependent nitrous controller, blabla.. I realize its not meth, lol, but couldnt i spray a smaller shot so i can at least get some use out of this nitrous kit.?. I have a feeling some rods through the block are in my future. LOFL.. Worst case i can just leave the nitrous off the car for now, but id like to make some SOLID numbers with all these parts ive got since bolting this stuff on and fabbing up the intercooler/bov is MUCH easier than building a turbo kit from scratch.
I hope that was not too confusing. Im sure a lot has to do with cam selection also, as it all depends as well on the compression/displacement of the setup. IMO swapping a cam in now thats setup for my stock longblock ls2 is not that big of a deal since when it goes forged its all getting changed anyways. Id like to find something with a rough idle, as i dont really care about the cam issues since i drive daily with a g6x3. Just really hurts me a little inside losing this rowdy idle i guess. Prolly the inner riceboy in me. haha..
Dont mean to be all over the place...Just trying to maximize with what ive got. Theres some peckerwood imports locally i need to eliminate before the pavement gets too cold. The more the power i can make, the better..lol
i planned on going single turbo, and already put together/got most of the parts, however may ALSO be acquiring a p1sc procharger kit for some parts in trade off another car thats designed for my ls2 gto..
Figured I would take my g6x3 cam out for something more suitable?, and toss the p1sc on quickly before the summer is over for some quick fun!......as opposed to having the car down fabricating the turbo kit while its so nice outside.
I was going to use the tial q valve i already have (as opposed to a race bypass valve), and I may reconsider and just use the treadstone 24x12x3.5 intercooler i have as well to upgrade the existing pro charger one?
With the smaller head unit (as opposed to a d1 or f1), is it even worth my time to upgrade this stuff from the existing p1 kit? Its going on a stock internals ls2 for now, however i have a pretty extensive bolt on list complete with everything from fast 102/102 all the way down to stuff like electric water pump, a/c removed, HUGE fuel system already ready(aside from injectors),large exhaust....
Id assume in time ill sell the p1 head unit+ the turbo i have, (possibly scrapping the turbo idea entirely), and swap out the p1 head unit for a larger one(d1 or f1)when i put a forged 370-408 assembly in it this winter. Another aspect ive already got is a pretty gnarley nitrous system with a nano kit, speed mapped progressive/boost dependent nitrous controller, blabla.. I realize its not meth, lol, but couldnt i spray a smaller shot so i can at least get some use out of this nitrous kit.?. I have a feeling some rods through the block are in my future. LOFL.. Worst case i can just leave the nitrous off the car for now, but id like to make some SOLID numbers with all these parts ive got since bolting this stuff on and fabbing up the intercooler/bov is MUCH easier than building a turbo kit from scratch.
I hope that was not too confusing. Im sure a lot has to do with cam selection also, as it all depends as well on the compression/displacement of the setup. IMO swapping a cam in now thats setup for my stock longblock ls2 is not that big of a deal since when it goes forged its all getting changed anyways. Id like to find something with a rough idle, as i dont really care about the cam issues since i drive daily with a g6x3. Just really hurts me a little inside losing this rowdy idle i guess. Prolly the inner riceboy in me. haha..
Dont mean to be all over the place...Just trying to maximize with what ive got. Theres some peckerwood imports locally i need to eliminate before the pavement gets too cold. The more the power i can make, the better..lol
With 8 psi of boost and the above cam I would expect your GTO to be in the 550-575 rwhp range, possibly more depending on the type of dyno. The ProCharger supplied intercooler would work just fine at this boost level. You could always change up the intercooler system down the road it you choose to stay with the blower route. Hopefully this helps. Bob
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PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
