I bought a used Vortech system (9psi aftercooled) and I didn't come with a bypass valve. I called Vortech and they said go with part #8D001-001. I looked on Summit and it said that valve is only good to 375hp. So what's the deal, what should I get? Suggestions? TIA

 

I have a Mondo Bypass valve sitting here collecting dust. with the flange. PM me if you are interested in that. Its brand new!

 

I'd get the race bypass. It looks better than that black plastic one that comes with the kit and directly bolts to the aftercooler. The only mod you might want to do is weld a larger bung onto the intake tube to optimize flow.

 

I wouldnt run that cheezy one they suggested. It's a reboxed standard Bosch valve that is used on VW/Audi's... It will work, I but I would get something better.

I personally have the Vortech Race Bypass... It's a really nice piece and seems to work well.. It's about $220...

Steve

 

just curious what are the advantages of the race bypass valve compared to a standard one? I have an aftermarket one the shop put on my car when they did the install, its polished like the rest of my kit.

wonder if its time for me to step up? I used to make around 12-13 lbs almost now it only goes up to 10 maybe 11. hmm

 

It can help with surge or idle control when you let off the gas by relieving the pressure better.

 

huh I had some surge issues when cruising at around 1500 rpms or so, but I believe that was from my converter. I have a Yank now and its all good. Looks cool to have a badazz bypass valve in there.

I need a bigger blower or need to find some serious scratch and go turbo, everyone here is making way more power than me!

 

BOV's should never be rated on hp . . . that's stupid.

The stock cheesy Vortech BOV will hold about 12 psi. LJ used one to go 9's at 139 mph on his LT1/Strim.

I was trying to go over 12 psi so I upgraded to a DSM Gen 2 BOV, which won't hold much more, maybe 14 psi.

I later couldn't get my turbo over 15 psi and found that the DSM BOV was leaking so I upgraded to a TurboXS RBV H-34 and haven't had a problem running up to 25 psi.

Mike

 

Could also use the Bosch 114 bypass. I run two of them. I will ,however, need a mondo real soon since I'm upping the boost... LOL. It's a sickness...........

 

Vortech race valve. Moved up from the bosch type in the kit.
Seems to work fine for me but I am only running Vortech SC at 9.5psi. If you are going big, the Mondo is the way to go. I am 585/533.

 

Well there are a few advantages like you can set it up to give you instant boost you can have it close under vacum to close the valve sooner etc... I had the Race bypass valve and just about any rpm I could mash it and I would instantly see 6 psi and it would climb from there to a peak of around 8-9 psi with the 2.5" pulley on the G-trim made 601rwhp with it.

 

instant boost? SWEEEET! Looks like I know what my next mod is gonna be! =) Plus it has bling factor which I'm all about!

When I mash my car it jumps to 5 then climbs.

 

Good information guys! So it looks like the race valve is the way to go.

 

A different BOV isn't going to affect that.

 

you mean bypass valve

 

Bypass BOV, whatever...they all vent air from the boosted inlet tract..

Im using a couple of Greddy type RS BOV's on mine. 38mm diameter each. No issues here.

I also used the plastic Bosch type on my turbo Mini many years ago. No issues holding 20psi.
If the BOV is actually working...no reason why it should leak boost.
If it does...then its due to a fault, rather than just being crap.

 

+1

Mike

 

IS there an actual difference in the two though?

 

They may look different, they may sound, and dump the air to a different location.

people also call them different things.

Dump valve, Compressor bypass, Blow off valve, Bypass valve etc etc etc

Essentially they all do the same job.

 

Essentially yeah, but that overlooks what they actually do though. They are rated by CFM, the ability to dump large amounts of air quickly to reduce stress on the blower or turbo. Get the bypass that would be best suited to your particular set up.

Would you run a BOV on a supercharged app? You could but it would drive you insane in about 2 days.

Bypasses can be run on both types of FI, turbo or s/c'ed.

some info off of Vortechs site to help the poster in his decision.
Mondo Bypass Valves
This super high-flow Mondo unit (600+ CFM @ 10 PSIG) is adaptable to all types of supercharged and turbocharged installations, mounted at any angle. Other features include a revised valve design utilizing an anodized aluminum valve head with an O-ring seal, a new shaft design that allows valve head articulation for perfect sealing, and an improved dual vent design. A large signal hose connection provides for fast valve action and instantaneous boost. An installation gasket is included. Steel or aluminum mounting flanges are available. These units are recommended for applications creating more than 12 PSIG and are mandatory for any system using a cog drive belt. The outlet mates to a 2" hose.

Race Bypass/Blowoff Valves
Our Maxflow Racing Bypass/Blowoff Valve flows 320 CFM @ 8 PSIG and features a compact design that is ideal for imports and others with tight engine compartments. These units will retrofit to standard HKS/Greddy style mounting pads and out performs anything its size. Installation gasket is included. Steel or aluminum mounting flanges are available. The outlet mates to a 1.75" hose.

On any LS1 pushing 10psi or more i'd go with a Mondo, ATI race ready or a 50mm or larger BOV.


Those plastic bosch ones yeah they work and have been pushed far, but that doesn't mean they weren't leaking like a mother or sealing up very quickly under boost. Which means more work for the turbo or s/c and more work=more heat.


.02