STS install pics... and stuff...
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From: NC - Charlotte area
again, to point out, the 42# injectors work fine, still got plenty left in them.
also.... i hate electronics..... when the dyno gets fixed...i will get back to yall on numbers
also.... i hate electronics..... when the dyno gets fixed...i will get back to yall on numbers
Hows your fuel pressure? What rpm were you at seeing 76% duty cycle?
I would rather do overkill than worry about going lean and blowing something up.
Also, how much boost are you running?
I would rather do overkill than worry about going lean and blowing something up.
Also, how much boost are you running?
i'm interested in running this kit...would their manual boost controller (5~15 psi) work to make around 8 or 9 PSI, or would the WG hafta be changed as well? i've read and searched and still don't know that much about turbo systems...so i hope tht wasn't a stupid question...
my 383 is around 9.2:1 with 67cc heads, 42# Racetronix injs and a 255lph Walbro...
my 383 is around 9.2:1 with 67cc heads, 42# Racetronix injs and a 255lph Walbro...
TOTM: November '07
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: oxford, MS
I am curious what the resistor is for. I am assuming it has to do with slowing down the oil pump. Is there a circuit that speeds up the pump when in boost or something? I have an STS pump, but mine runs wide open all of the time and is **** loud. Also, is there an oil restrictor on the turbo?
Fedge, yes, the 5-15 controller will allow you to run 8-9 psi.
explorer, the oil pump is supposed to be a 2 speed pump. When it starts up, it is at high speed. After a few minutes it is supposed to switch to low speed. When you are under boost, it is then supposed to switch back to high speed. There is a troubleshooting section in your installation manual for things to check if it always runs at high speed. IMHO, the noise you hear is due to the extremely poor vibration dampening rubber they use on the pump. If you look at it, all they have are very small rubber washers. What is really needed is true vibration isolation washers. I have a set waiting to be installed, but life keeps getting in the way.
explorer, the oil pump is supposed to be a 2 speed pump. When it starts up, it is at high speed. After a few minutes it is supposed to switch to low speed. When you are under boost, it is then supposed to switch back to high speed. There is a troubleshooting section in your installation manual for things to check if it always runs at high speed. IMHO, the noise you hear is due to the extremely poor vibration dampening rubber they use on the pump. If you look at it, all they have are very small rubber washers. What is really needed is true vibration isolation washers. I have a set waiting to be installed, but life keeps getting in the way.
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Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
Fedge, yes, the 5-15 controller will allow you to run 8-9 psi.
explorer, the oil pump is supposed to be a 2 speed pump. When it starts up, it is at high speed. After a few minutes it is supposed to switch to low speed. When you are under boost, it is then supposed to switch back to high speed. There is a troubleshooting section in your installation manual for things to check if it always runs at high speed. IMHO, the noise you hear is due to the extremely poor vibration dampening rubber they use on the pump. If you look at it, all they have are very small rubber washers. What is really needed is true vibration isolation washers. I have a set waiting to be installed, but life keeps getting in the way.
explorer, the oil pump is supposed to be a 2 speed pump. When it starts up, it is at high speed. After a few minutes it is supposed to switch to low speed. When you are under boost, it is then supposed to switch back to high speed. There is a troubleshooting section in your installation manual for things to check if it always runs at high speed. IMHO, the noise you hear is due to the extremely poor vibration dampening rubber they use on the pump. If you look at it, all they have are very small rubber washers. What is really needed is true vibration isolation washers. I have a set waiting to be installed, but life keeps getting in the way.
TOTM: November '07
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: oxford, MS
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
explorer, the oil pump is supposed to be a 2 speed pump. When it starts up, it is at high speed. After a few minutes it is supposed to switch to low speed. When you are under boost, it is then supposed to switch back to high speed. There is a troubleshooting section in your installation manual for things to check if it always runs at high speed. IMHO, the noise you hear is due to the extremely poor vibration dampening rubber they use on the pump. If you look at it, all they have are very small rubber washers. What is really needed is true vibration isolation washers. I have a set waiting to be installed, but life keeps getting in the way.
My oil pump doesnt have any kind of controller. It is just on a relay and comes on full blast all of the time. I have the rubber washers installed and the pump sheet metal screwed to the frame- but I still get the noise. I think it may be from me using the oil restrictor along with the pump running wide open. I guess I need to buy a new oil inlet flange for my turbo without a restrictor and see if more oil volume will make the pump quiet. I have had people ask me if my truck was "bagged" because they thought the sound was an air compressor.
Yes, the pump comes with washers. But they are not true isolation washers, which is the problem. See my post below for a true isolation washer system. This is what STS should have used, but was apparently too cheap to do.
The relay, I believe, is what is supposed to switch between speeds. A quote from my STS install manual (this is copywrited):
"If pump always runs at high speed, check pressure switch continuity, secondary relay continuity, and harness for shorts."
The relay, I believe, is what is supposed to switch between speeds. A quote from my STS install manual (this is copywrited):
"If pump always runs at high speed, check pressure switch continuity, secondary relay continuity, and harness for shorts."
Last edited by koolaid_kid; Jan 23, 2007 at 12:18 PM.
TOTM: November '07
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: oxford, MS
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
Yes, the pump comes with washers. But they are not true isolation washers, which is the problem. If I knew how to insert a picture, I would show you one. Instead, I will try to describe it. A true isolation washer has a screw that goes into the car to hold it. Then it has a thick rubber piece, bonded to the screw. Then it has another stud which is used to connect to the pump. Thus, the rubber part, which is bonded on both ends, is what connects the two pieces, the pump and the car. What is supplied is a direct connection from the pump to the car, thus the vibration from the pump is directly transmitted to the car.
The relay, I believe, is what is supposed to switch between speeds.
A quote from my STS install manual (this is copywrited):
"If pump always runs at high speed, check pressure switch continuity, secondary relay continuity, and harness for shorts."
If you pm me your email address, I can send you a picture of real isolation washers, which will quiet the vibration which irritates both you and me.
The relay, I believe, is what is supposed to switch between speeds.
A quote from my STS install manual (this is copywrited):
"If pump always runs at high speed, check pressure switch continuity, secondary relay continuity, and harness for shorts."
If you pm me your email address, I can send you a picture of real isolation washers, which will quiet the vibration which irritates both you and me.
I dont mean to hijack the thread, but this info could help anyone with these pumps
Mine is mounted with the rubber washers that go into the slots at the corners of the mounting plate. So, the only isolation is the back part of the double rubber washer. Let's see if this works.
Got it. Now look at the picture. Notice the threaded washer on on side. This would go on either the body or the pump. It is bonded to the rubber piece. On the other end is a stud with a nut. This is attached to another washer, which is also bonded to the rubber. Between the two washers, there is a thick rubber piece. Neither washer touches each other. The thick rubber piece absorbs the vibrations, which no longer pass straight to the body. This is what is needed, and is what STS should have used.
Hopes this helps.
Got it. Now look at the picture. Notice the threaded washer on on side. This would go on either the body or the pump. It is bonded to the rubber piece. On the other end is a stud with a nut. This is attached to another washer, which is also bonded to the rubber. Between the two washers, there is a thick rubber piece. Neither washer touches each other. The thick rubber piece absorbs the vibrations, which no longer pass straight to the body. This is what is needed, and is what STS should have used.
Hopes this helps.
Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
Fedge, yes, the 5-15 controller will allow you to run 8-9 psi.
explorer, the oil pump is supposed to be a 2 speed pump. When it starts up, it is at high speed. After a few minutes it is supposed to switch to low speed. When you are under boost, it is then supposed to switch back to high speed. There is a troubleshooting section in your installation manual for things to check if it always runs at high speed. IMHO, the noise you hear is due to the extremely poor vibration dampening rubber they use on the pump. If you look at it, all they have are very small rubber washers. What is really needed is true vibration isolation washers. I have a set waiting to be installed, but life keeps getting in the way.
explorer, the oil pump is supposed to be a 2 speed pump. When it starts up, it is at high speed. After a few minutes it is supposed to switch to low speed. When you are under boost, it is then supposed to switch back to high speed. There is a troubleshooting section in your installation manual for things to check if it always runs at high speed. IMHO, the noise you hear is due to the extremely poor vibration dampening rubber they use on the pump. If you look at it, all they have are very small rubber washers. What is really needed is true vibration isolation washers. I have a set waiting to be installed, but life keeps getting in the way.
The newer kits (in the last year) come with a toggle switch in the harness so you can run the pump on high all the time. That is mainly for dyno pulls or when its really cold and the oil is too thick for the pump to run on low.
Originally Posted by trtturbo
Actually, the pump will run on low all the time unless you are in boost or manually turn it on high. The resistor does slow it down, but when the pressure switch sees 1psi, it will switch, bypassing the resistor and turn the pump on high. When boost drops back down, it goes back to low. The same switch will also activate the switch valve.
The newer kits (in the last year) come with a toggle switch in the harness so you can run the pump on high all the time. That is mainly for dyno pulls or when its really cold and the oil is too thick for the pump to run on low.
The newer kits (in the last year) come with a toggle switch in the harness so you can run the pump on high all the time. That is mainly for dyno pulls or when its really cold and the oil is too thick for the pump to run on low.
). That is the information they gave me at the time, that it starts in high, switches to low, and then only goes to high when under boost. I stand corrected.There are many STS owners who complain about loud pumps. What is your position on that?
Last edited by koolaid_kid; Jan 24, 2007 at 12:42 PM.
Originally Posted by trtturbo
Actually, the pump will run on low all the time unless you are in boost or manually turn it on high. The resistor does slow it down, but when the pressure switch sees 1psi, it will switch, bypassing the resistor and turn the pump on high. When boost drops back down, it goes back to low. The same switch will also activate the switch valve.
The newer kits (in the last year) come with a toggle switch in the harness so you can run the pump on high all the time. That is mainly for dyno pulls or when its really cold and the oil is too thick for the pump to run on low.
The newer kits (in the last year) come with a toggle switch in the harness so you can run the pump on high all the time. That is mainly for dyno pulls or when its really cold and the oil is too thick for the pump to run on low.
Originally Posted by THE_SUPRA
looks liek fun...
...the STS kit has been a pretty straitforward kit for me, but the wiring has been a pain in the ***
...the STS kit has been a pretty straitforward kit for me, but the wiring has been a pain in the ***
Actually, he did do a lot of work
But, I'm working on it tonight all by myself. I'm a big boy now