As we all know the D1SC works dam good and a 347 setup. What would be the CONS of running a F1A set up on a 347? All the PROS are a given, I'm just trying to find the down side of this combo.

Reason I'm asking this is because I do plan on going with a more cube in the future, so I'm was curious if I could get away with the 347/F1A combo for the time being.


Did a quick search and didn't really find much info on my question. I will continue my search. So you gents that love to say "USE THE SEARCH BUTTON", I already did and it would help if there is any links with this question already asked. Please post them.

 

Cons? Two I can think of. The F series blowers are noisier because of the low ratio transmission and the transmission is about .400" thicker which places the air inlet closer to the fan shroud/radiator which will require modification to get a tube on it.

If you can get past that its a great all-around blower if you can use the air.

 

Do you currently have forged internals? If you don't, the F series will more than likely make more boost than your stock engines bottom end can handle, unless you have a big cam in there to help bleed off some boost. Bob

 

I dont think anyone has run a F1A (or even a plain F1) on a 347 recently. I have an F1A on mine bolted up and ready to go. Yes its noisy but I dont care. The transmission is.400 thicker but also the inlet sticks out further then the D1 so overall its more like an inch difference.

I havent ran the car yet with it on there. Just havent had a good weather weekend with the holidays and al but its ready to go.. I see no reason why it should have any cons as opposed to a D1SC, find out soon enough though.

 

could you tune it extremely rich, or is it that beastly of a blower?

 

hey Kev,

Why don't ya take a road trip to Fla? Our tracks are open this Sunday.

 

I could, brandenton is closed I thought, who is running Orlando? I should make a disneyworl/drag racing trip the next time the kid has a couple days off school..

 

This may sound kind of crazy, so I'll try and word the question right .

The D1SC's boost start at 8#, what does the F1A base boost start at? 10#'s

 

CON: Unless you plan on running race gas, you're not really gonna get the potential of the F-blower with only 347 cubes. Of course, this may not be an issue if you are.

PRO: almost everything

 

Lakeland will be open the end of this month on a Thursday (1/8 mi)

Bradenton will be open in I think 2 weeks

Orlando is open right now. We have a Funday Sunday this weekend, its like an open test n tune.

You should def come out! i wanna check your ride out and maybe you can help me out tweak my setup.

 

KP, directly from Denise at Steele "We are currently -this week-digging up the shut down area to be fixed."
They are closed for some improvements....yaaaayyy...we may be able to run there again. my slow *** was bottoming out on the tranny pan in the shutdown area....I imagine you got airborne!!! I dunno what else they may fix but there is a lot of options

 

That all really depends on the cam, compresion and where its pulleyed at.

For example, the D1SC with a 7.25/3.4, which is maxed out impeller at 7000rpm, showed 2.7psi on the 2 step/brake at 2500, 5psi at 3500rpm.

Thr F1A with a 7.25/4, which is 6K under max impeller at 7000 is 2.0psi @ 2500 and 5.7 at 3500. Little less way down low, little more at 3500, until I run it I dont know where it will be at 7000rpm. I would guess 1-2more psi then the maxed out D1. I'm hoping by spinning the blower a little slower to keep IATs down and still move more air then the D1 maxed out - we'll see.

Jerry, thats great - Steele is a good track and if they fix the 1/4 mile shutdown that will make it a lot less scary

 

I don't know for sure, but here are my guess's...

1.) You will probably have to lose the ac or it will easily overheat in the summer, even if you could fit 2 fans in there (thicker radiator, fmic, bigger blower and ac condensor makes for an extremely tight fit).
2.) Fitting an airfilter on is more difficult, but that might be solved by moving the radiator forward.
3.) I believe the F series has a more aggressive step up ratio than the D series, which could mean more broken belts.
4.) If this is a street car, you're going to spend quite a bit more $ for power that you basically won't be able to use on the street. The D1 is capable of well over 640+rwhp in an M6.

 

or you can come to TEXXXAS
where the tracks are open all year

 

Must be nice!

 

Florida is closer to me

Some tracks here are open all year here, supposed to rain all weekend though May hit Jackson SC saturday..

 

Bob,

What's your guess at the max the stock short block can handle?

I am curious on this to see where you would need to short shift this at to keep it from blowing up your stock block.

 

We like to keep stock motors around 500-530rwhp (mustand dyno). We usually see these numbers with around 7-9psi of boost, depending on what mods the owner has done, be it cam/intake/heads.

Some claim 600ish on stock bottom end, but i think those people have short blocks laying around, at that power level its like walking around with a torch in a firework store

For the f1 series blower, you would have to short shift and run a HUGE blower pulley. ATI makes a 5" pulley for the 8rib, im sure you would have to run a 5" on there.

 

Hey jake,

I'd be looking to you and Bod to help guide me in what I would need. Is there any way to calculate (or does anyone have an idea) with the 5" where 9psi of boost would be in the RPM ?

I am assuming the thread poster meant stock block. If so i am in the same boat as she/he.

My stock block has low milage so I want to roll with it for a long while before getting a forge one. Id go with the D1 but figures if I am going with a new engine it will be 400+ and read you want an Fseries for that.

Thanks

 

I was curious about both stock and a forged block.