No, with an intercooler, you will have pressure drop and wont run the boost the wastegate is "sprung" for. If you do your boost reference off of the intake, then you will run the psi your spring is for. If you dont have an intercooler, you can use the boost reference from the compressor housing to the wastegate.

 

O ok I understand but can just get a higher psi wastegate spring and still use the boost reference from the compressor? If the spring is lets say set for 9psi usually how much will the engine see with intercooler on the sts setup?

 

You could just get a different spring, but using the intake reference will give you more stable boost readings. Really, it just works better that way. On top of that, look at it this way. $30.00 spring or $8.00 in vacume line.

 

I had TRT run my reference from the manifold...a really good decision on my part. Worth the $$$ in my opinion.

I tried running a boost controller via STS but I could see how those things suck. It's worth running the line from the front of the car IMO. You'll get an accurate reading all the time and not have to worry about fluctuating numbers on you gauge and RWHP.

I have a 1/2 bar spring installed right now but am only running 6.5psi. When TRT wraps my exhuast this weekend, I should be making 7+ PSI and putting down another 30+ RWHP/RWTQ. I look forward to the 500 rear wheel benchmark...

 

goodluck my friend. its a good number to be at

 

Well I am almost done wrapping up my rear mount set-up. I am going to start out on 5psi. what numbers do you guys think I should be putting down on 5psi through a fmic? I have exhaust wrapped still with my headers, Base sts turbo. Now if I plan on running higher boost in the future do I have to pay for another tune, even if Maybe i jump form 5- 6.5?

 

with a FMIC you will probably see near what i'm getting, as I have several more mods than you do that free up a bit, but the IC may make up for that....as its hard to get power out of hot air..but i'm working on that, and wrapping the exhaust this weekend.

check out my sig link...sts build

i made 423HP and 431TQ 16degrees timing, stock internals ALL THE WAY 12.2 AFR

 

I think you should be somewhere in the mid to low 400's with a good tune.

If you decide to up the boost any you need to have it re-tuned.

 

anybody have the install instructions on sts meth kit? ive called them and got some from freddy but they are confusing. no pictures to reference either. maybe you guys have some pics,iv already have the pump mounted, gonna use my stock winshield washer tank.

 

I have a 98 M6 Z28, when I shift under boost, the engine revs. Am I supposed to hook a vacuum line from the blow off to the brake vacuum?

 

Brake booster is the best place...large vacuum source it is...

 

i am picking up my sts kit this weekend so i am sure i will be in here alot asking stupid questions. who wants to be my bitch for a week and help me out lol

 

thats the reason for this thread my good buddylol

 

any tips for me b4 i start? i already took the cat back off the car and the lid, what else can i do to save some time? oh, and can i just ditch my maf sensor... i wanna use my nitrous kit still and it would be alot easier to keep it and use the maf housing to have somewhere to drill and tap into that i know wont crack.

 

You can start to make room for the pipe to go up to the tb, cut a little off of your radiator hose so the rad hose will be a little out of the room. You can ditch your maf if you plan on getting a SD tune.

 

Make sure you have plenty of zip ties, all the tools you need and a couple deep sockets for the rachet (specifically 3/8" for the T-bolt clamps if you upgraded to those. I didn't cut any off my radiator hose, but it probably would have saved me a good amount of time and frustration had I done it.

If you plan on doing a FMIC, get your bumper off and rip all the crap out from behind it.

Make sure your spark plugs are gapped right...I would go ahead and swap them out if IWU.

36lbs injectors...might want to go to at least 42 depending on how much power you're planning on making.

Pull your PCM out to make room to get through the firewall for the buzzer and if you're installing gauges, get the lower part of the dash-board off so you can get to the power sources. Good luck...it does take a crap-load more time than they say it will

 

I would recommend getting the dynomax I-pipe since it gives the turbo the best clearence.

 

where do you get those

 

i have no bumpes, one seat, no carpet. no AC, no PS, no heater core already so i doubt i need to remove much else from what you just told me lol. sucks tho because the biggest injectors i have are a set of 36# accell ones. guess i need to fork up about 400 bucks for some bigger ones

EDIT: rofl, i forgot i had injectors listed in my sig. was wondering how you guessed what size i had. man i need to get some sleep this weekend.

 

From Dynomax directly.