WB after turbo and boost guage off the brake booster line.

 

Why would you want to know the amount of boost you are making before the maf? It only seems logical that you would want to read the actual boost in your intake manifold because that is what your engine is seeing.

 

Actully I have a question about this, I think this is what I am going to need. This is the problem I have, I am going to put the STS kit on my 96 T/A. However I currently have the SLP loudmouth II system, the SLP system has the muffler right behind the y-pipe and in the back the system goes into duel exhaust just before where the stock muffler used to be. Make any sense?? So if I bought the STS kit it would not just bolt up to my SLP, if I bought the above parts would the exhaust route to the stock muffler location? Therefore allowing me to mount the STS? I guess that would mean that the entire SLP system would be coming off.
Thanks for the help, this is something that I have really been wondering about.

 

Just like you said. You have to remove the loudmouth and then either put stock back on or get the above parts. Im pretty sure those same parts will work on an LT1. The thing is, at $110 for them +shipping I would just look into having an exhaust shop weld you a new piece. Or maybe just get the "over axle" piece and have the shop do the rest. Most of the shops around me would charge less than $100 and you'd likely get a tighter fit (if theyre a good shop). Plus you can have them bend the pipe differently after its over the axle so that it is tailored more for the turbo.

I have the stock I-pipe/axle pipe, but I cut the end of it differently and welded on a 3bolt flange ($15 for the pair) so that I can disconnect the whole turbo whenever I want. I also going to try and angle it up higher so that the turbo sits high up against the exhaust shield

 

I just got done talking with Rick Squires at STS. We were talking about a simple way to re-due my PCV system. Here what we came up with.

1) Run the return line to the pcv port on the drivers side valve cover.
2) Breather on the oil fill.
3) Plug the TB and intake manifold.
4) Run both ports from the passenger side valve cover to a cc w/a breather.

This seemed like the easiest method with out doing any major work.

 

DUDE PICS WOULD BE AWESOME I NEED TO START DOING MY PCV SYSTEM.

 

I haven't set mine up like this yet. I'll make sure to post some once I get it done.

 

How do you put a breather on the oil filler when the return oil is going into it?

Anyway you could draw this up?
Heres what I started:


Edit: I just realized you were saying run the oil return to the driver side PCV. How do you do that? Remove PCV? and is that port big enough for oil return? Is your PCV setup stock or do you have LS6 valley? Would this eliminate the need for a check valve?

 

The port on the drivers side valve cover is plenty big. Pull the quick release off the return line and hook it up to the pcv port that was going into the valve cover before.

I'm currently running the STS PCV system with a check valve and CC. The reason I want to change to this setup is because it will help with the ventalation, plus theres already to much oil on the passenger side.

 

Thanks for the help, I was planning on have a custom pipe made up but then I saw those parts. I would think that they would work on my LT1 but not for sure. I can't wait until I get some boost, should be fun.

 

Heres a more clear one. Do I yank the old PCV tubing and keep the PCV valve? And plug the hose going to manifold and the two on the TB? Doesnt the CC need vacuum? What if it had two lines coming off pass valve cover and third inlet that went to the compress housing for vacuum under boost. Any pics of your current setup. sorry im lost with this PCV stuff.

 

up top. any news about this other PCV setup?

 

I'll take some pics for you tomorrow.

 

When I take the car to the track and turn the 2 step on the elbow with the STS kit keeps collapsing. I can't even free rev the car past 4K rpm's because the intake elbow completly sucks it self in

Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?

 

i know mine sucks in when it revs, but all the way..... that's crazy

 

Mine did that for a while when I had a loose coupler, it also wouldn't make boost though. Now it makes a small amount of boost that keeps the elbow from collapsing.

 

I have a 408 and just wanted to know if a 244/248 115 cam with a 3800 stall
is alright for an sts.

 

i have a smaller duration cam on the same LSA and it works for my little 346, so i imagine that cam will work wonders for your 408

 

I have heard of this happening. I suggest going with an aluminum elbow and quality 5 ply silicone connectors, along with quality SS t-clamps. The STS kit is the bare minimum, IMO, and can always be improved.

 

theres a company that sells a hardened rubber elbow for real cheap. i try and find the link