Official STS help thread
Why would you want to know the amount of boost you are making before the maf? It only seems logical that you would want to read the actual boost in your intake manifold because that is what your engine is seeing.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by JAvenger007
do you have a link to that? or some pics of it installed
edit: is it these two?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...view=32&N=700+
i guess it runs over the axle higher up?
edit: is it these two?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...view=32&N=700+
i guess it runs over the axle higher up?
Actully I have a question about this, I think this is what I am going to need. This is the problem I have, I am going to put the STS kit on my 96 T/A. However I currently have the SLP loudmouth II system, the SLP system has the muffler right behind the y-pipe and in the back the system goes into duel exhaust just before where the stock muffler used to be. Make any sense?? So if I bought the STS kit it would not just bolt up to my SLP, if I bought the above parts would the exhaust route to the stock muffler location? Therefore allowing me to mount the STS? I guess that would mean that the entire SLP system would be coming off.
Thanks for the help, this is something that I have really been wondering about.
Just like you said. You have to remove the loudmouth and then either put stock back on or get the above parts. Im pretty sure those same parts will work on an LT1. The thing is, at $110 for them +shipping I would just look into having an exhaust shop weld you a new piece. Or maybe just get the "over axle" piece and have the shop do the rest. Most of the shops around me would charge less than $100 and you'd likely get a tighter fit (if theyre a good shop). Plus you can have them bend the pipe differently after its over the axle so that it is tailored more for the turbo.
I have the stock I-pipe/axle pipe, but I cut the end of it differently and welded on a 3bolt flange ($15 for the pair) so that I can disconnect the whole turbo whenever I want. I also going to try and angle it up higher so that the turbo sits high up against the exhaust shield
I have the stock I-pipe/axle pipe, but I cut the end of it differently and welded on a 3bolt flange ($15 for the pair) so that I can disconnect the whole turbo whenever I want. I also going to try and angle it up higher so that the turbo sits high up against the exhaust shield
Sts Pcv I just got done talking with Rick Squires at STS. We were talking about a simple way to re-due my PCV system. Here what we came up with.
1) Run the return line to the pcv port on the drivers side valve cover.
2) Breather on the oil fill.
3) Plug the TB and intake manifold.
4) Run both ports from the passenger side valve cover to a cc w/a breather.
This seemed like the easiest method with out doing any major work.
1) Run the return line to the pcv port on the drivers side valve cover.
2) Breather on the oil fill.
3) Plug the TB and intake manifold.
4) Run both ports from the passenger side valve cover to a cc w/a breather.
This seemed like the easiest method with out doing any major work.
Originally Posted by JD_Z28
I just got done talking with Rick Squires at STS. We were talking about a simple way to re-due my PCV system. Here what we came up with.
1) Run the return line to the pcv port on the drivers side valve cover.
2) Breather on the oil fill.
3) Plug the TB and intake manifold.
4) Run both ports from the passenger side valve cover to a cc w/a breather.
This seemed like the easiest method with out doing any major work.
1) Run the return line to the pcv port on the drivers side valve cover.
2) Breather on the oil fill.
3) Plug the TB and intake manifold.
4) Run both ports from the passenger side valve cover to a cc w/a breather.
This seemed like the easiest method with out doing any major work.
Originally Posted by Eatinstang4life
DUDE PICS WOULD BE AWESOME I NEED TO START DOING MY PCV SYSTEM.
How do you put a breather on the oil filler when the return oil is going into it?
Anyway you could draw this up?
Heres what I started:
Edit: I just realized you were saying run the oil return to the driver side PCV. How do you do that? Remove PCV? and is that port big enough for oil return? Is your PCV setup stock or do you have LS6 valley? Would this eliminate the need for a check valve?
Anyway you could draw this up?
Heres what I started:
Edit: I just realized you were saying run the oil return to the driver side PCV. How do you do that? Remove PCV? and is that port big enough for oil return? Is your PCV setup stock or do you have LS6 valley? Would this eliminate the need for a check valve?
Last edited by JAvenger007; Apr 13, 2007 at 02:05 PM.
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Originally Posted by JAvenger007
How do you put a breather on the oil filler when the return oil is going into it?
Anyway you could draw this up?
Heres what I started:
Edit: I just realized you were saying run the oil return to the driver side PCV. How do you do that? Remove PCV? and is that port big enough for oil return? Is your PCV setup stock or do you have LS6 valley? Would this eliminate the need for a check valve?
Anyway you could draw this up?
Heres what I started:
Edit: I just realized you were saying run the oil return to the driver side PCV. How do you do that? Remove PCV? and is that port big enough for oil return? Is your PCV setup stock or do you have LS6 valley? Would this eliminate the need for a check valve?
I'm currently running the STS PCV system with a check valve and CC. The reason I want to change to this setup is because it will help with the ventalation, plus theres already to much oil on the passenger side.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by JAvenger007
Just like you said. You have to remove the loudmouth and then either put stock back on or get the above parts. Im pretty sure those same parts will work on an LT1. The thing is, at $110 for them +shipping I would just look into having an exhaust shop weld you a new piece. Or maybe just get the "over axle" piece and have the shop do the rest. Most of the shops around me would charge less than $100 and you'd likely get a tighter fit (if theyre a good shop). Plus you can have them bend the pipe differently after its over the axle so that it is tailored more for the turbo.
I have the stock I-pipe/axle pipe, but I cut the end of it differently and welded on a 3bolt flange ($15 for the pair) so that I can disconnect the whole turbo whenever I want. I also going to try and angle it up higher so that the turbo sits high up against the exhaust shield
I have the stock I-pipe/axle pipe, but I cut the end of it differently and welded on a 3bolt flange ($15 for the pair) so that I can disconnect the whole turbo whenever I want. I also going to try and angle it up higher so that the turbo sits high up against the exhaust shield
Thanks for the help, I was planning on have a custom pipe made up but then I saw those parts. I would think that they would work on my LT1 but not for sure. I can't wait until I get some boost, should be fun.
Originally Posted by JD_Z28
The port on the drivers side valve cover is plenty big. Pull the quick release off the return line and hook it up to the pcv port that was going into the valve cover before.
I'm currently running the STS PCV system with a check valve and CC. The reason I want to change to this setup is because it will help with the ventalation, plus theres already to much oil on the passenger side.
I'm currently running the STS PCV system with a check valve and CC. The reason I want to change to this setup is because it will help with the ventalation, plus theres already to much oil on the passenger side.
Originally Posted by JAvenger007
Heres a more clear one. Do I yank the old PCV tubing and keep the PCV valve? And plug the hose going to manifold and the two on the TB? Doesnt the CC need vacuum? What if it had two lines coming off pass valve cover and third inlet that went to the compress housing for vacuum under boost. Any pics of your current setup. sorry im lost with this PCV stuff.
Intake elbow collapsing. When I take the car to the track and turn the 2 step on the elbow with the STS kit keeps collapsing. I can't even free rev the car past 4K rpm's because the intake elbow completly sucks it self in 
Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?
Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?
Originally Posted by JD_Z28
When I take the car to the track and turn the 2 step on the elbow with the STS kit keeps collapsing. I can't even free rev the car past 4K rpm's because the intake elbow completly sucks it self in
Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?
Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?
Originally Posted by JD_Z28
When I take the car to the track and turn the 2 step on the elbow with the STS kit keeps collapsing. I can't even free rev the car past 4K rpm's because the intake elbow completly sucks it self in
Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?
Has anyone else had this problem or is it just me?