Kinda wanting to try a homemade kit.
Kinda wanting to try a homemade kit. I don't have much experience with turbos but im thinking about going with a rear mount set up over nitrous.
I think i can handle quite a bit of the pluming myself as it does not seem all that difficult. Just buy random assorted pipes and mock them all up and then weld.
**will any exhaust tubing work? thinks u can get at autoparts stores and what not??
I already have a 255 walbro, 30lb injectors the motor is built pretty well.
Im running a 383 with a 58x lift cam on a 112lsa.
is it possible to simply run a pipe off my hooker long tubes to connect to the turbo? or do i need to get these truck manifolds?
Also, i havnt found a whole lot of information on a turbo for my kind of motor atleast info i can easily understand. I dont want to get into intercoolers so what type of psi am i looking to run and what turbo will suffice for my 383?
Im hitting just shy of 400rwhp right now and id like for the turbo to out perform something like a 100-150 dry shot.
Please take me to school!! i figure i can do this semi cheap being able to sell my 4inch mufflex exhaust that i suppose i wont need anymore...right? the rear mount pretty much replaces that or no?
I think i can handle quite a bit of the pluming myself as it does not seem all that difficult. Just buy random assorted pipes and mock them all up and then weld.
**will any exhaust tubing work? thinks u can get at autoparts stores and what not??
I already have a 255 walbro, 30lb injectors the motor is built pretty well.
Im running a 383 with a 58x lift cam on a 112lsa.
is it possible to simply run a pipe off my hooker long tubes to connect to the turbo? or do i need to get these truck manifolds?
Also, i havnt found a whole lot of information on a turbo for my kind of motor atleast info i can easily understand. I dont want to get into intercoolers so what type of psi am i looking to run and what turbo will suffice for my 383?
Im hitting just shy of 400rwhp right now and id like for the turbo to out perform something like a 100-150 dry shot.
Please take me to school!! i figure i can do this semi cheap being able to sell my 4inch mufflex exhaust that i suppose i wont need anymore...right? the rear mount pretty much replaces that or no?
You will need bigger injectors for starters. Go 42# minimum. The fuel pump is good to go for now.
The cam is a bit tight for all that back pressure on a remote mount, but I've heard of 112 LSAs working out on turbo applications. It should be ok.
You can run off the long tubes, but there is debate about LTs and rear mounts. I would keep them myself and see how it goes. Wrapping the exhaust helps.
You can use regular exhuast tubing and weld as needed. Use silicone couplers where you need to on the cold side. I use Summit for the U-bends, J-bends and straights.
You wont need an intercooler for a rear-mount under 7 psi, but it would really be a plus to have it. Run meth for over 7 psi if you delete the intercooler.
You can spin a T70 on that 383 with a correctly sized turbine housing. Think power as opposed to boost. Every combo runs different on x pounds of boost.
On a built motor like that, I'd go for as much flow as my fuel system and MAF could support. I'm not sure about speed density on a '95 PCM, anyone? Tune it right and you will be safe and make a lot of power and torque.
Yes, the turbo does replace the muffler.
The cam is a bit tight for all that back pressure on a remote mount, but I've heard of 112 LSAs working out on turbo applications. It should be ok.
You can run off the long tubes, but there is debate about LTs and rear mounts. I would keep them myself and see how it goes. Wrapping the exhaust helps.
You can use regular exhuast tubing and weld as needed. Use silicone couplers where you need to on the cold side. I use Summit for the U-bends, J-bends and straights.
You wont need an intercooler for a rear-mount under 7 psi, but it would really be a plus to have it. Run meth for over 7 psi if you delete the intercooler.
You can spin a T70 on that 383 with a correctly sized turbine housing. Think power as opposed to boost. Every combo runs different on x pounds of boost.
On a built motor like that, I'd go for as much flow as my fuel system and MAF could support. I'm not sure about speed density on a '95 PCM, anyone? Tune it right and you will be safe and make a lot of power and torque.
Yes, the turbo does replace the muffler.
something like this would be okay for a turbo??
took down link!
sorry for the n00b questions. as u can see most of my knowledge is in all motor applications lol so turbos are a slightly new field.
took down link!
sorry for the n00b questions. as u can see most of my knowledge is in all motor applications lol so turbos are a slightly new field.
Last edited by 95 Camaro Z28; May 24, 2007 at 11:35 AM.
A T70 with 65mm compressor wheel? No go on that!
Save your money and buy a genuine turbo.
edit - Oh wait, I missread that! It doesn't give the minor measurement, but it says that the major is 84mm. A T70 has a 97.8mm major. Still a no go.
Note - The mods do not look favorably on posting non-sponsor and ebay turbo links here.
Save your money and buy a genuine turbo.
edit - Oh wait, I missread that! It doesn't give the minor measurement, but it says that the major is 84mm. A T70 has a 97.8mm major. Still a no go.
Note - The mods do not look favorably on posting non-sponsor and ebay turbo links here.
Last edited by Silver02Z28; May 24, 2007 at 11:33 AM.
Registered User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: DFW
Custom kit will cost you a lot more time and probably money than you could imagine right now. IMO, your cam is bigger than ideal for a FI setup...FI seems to like higher LSA's.
Save up some cash and buy a kit...you'll be happy in the end that you didn't go "home made."
The rear-mounts work...don't let the haters tell you otherwise. They're not as ideal of a FI setup as others out there, but they do work. I've raced one that put my car to shame
.
On a 383, a 67mm would be alright but you could up that to a 70mm with no lag problems, etc...even a 76mm could do you nicely.
Check out www.trtturbo.com ...they have some good deals IMO.
Save up some cash and buy a kit...you'll be happy in the end that you didn't go "home made."
The rear-mounts work...don't let the haters tell you otherwise. They're not as ideal of a FI setup as others out there, but they do work. I've raced one that put my car to shame
.On a 383, a 67mm would be alright but you could up that to a 70mm with no lag problems, etc...even a 76mm could do you nicely.
Check out www.trtturbo.com ...they have some good deals IMO.
Originally Posted by wanna_ls7
Custom kit will cost you a lot more time and probably money than you could imagine right now. IMO, your cam is bigger than ideal for a FI setup...FI seems to like higher LSA's.
Save up some cash and buy a kit...you'll be happy in the end that you didn't go "home made."
The rear-mounts work...don't let the haters tell you otherwise. They're not as ideal of a FI setup as others out there, but they do work. I've raced one that put my car to shame.
On a 383, a 67mm would be alright but you could up that to a 70mm with no lag problems, etc...even a 76mm could do you nicely.
Check out www.trtturbo.com ...they have some good deals IMO.
Save up some cash and buy a kit...you'll be happy in the end that you didn't go "home made."
The rear-mounts work...don't let the haters tell you otherwise. They're not as ideal of a FI setup as others out there, but they do work. I've raced one that put my car to shame
.On a 383, a 67mm would be alright but you could up that to a 70mm with no lag problems, etc...even a 76mm could do you nicely.
Check out www.trtturbo.com ...they have some good deals IMO.
If you do your own, you will spend a lot of time re-doing things that aren't right. Be prepared to spend many hours researching and building/fixing. I like that kind of thing so I'd rather do my own, but not everyone does. If you equate time to money, then you are right on the cost, but if he's a halway decent fabricator with the right tools he's going to save money.
Trending Topics
I figure selling the injectors i have, the exhaust and the cai. i will net over 500 bucks.
thats the turbo right there pretty much. then its just a matter of piping.
my concern is with the turbo getting hot as hell under the tank though. i know they are known to glow after a good run, does the turbo have to be mounted under the gas tank? or can it be mounted close? perhaps for even fast spooling...
the idea in my head is that various pipes and bends from somewhere like pepboys wont be that expensive. the oil plumbing kit isnt that much...
Here is my uneducated view...
turbo will be around 500ish.
piping will be a little over 100.
..car way up in the air on 4 stands and once the turbo is mounted to the exhaust then its just a matter of running the oil line to the pan, routing pipes to the intake elbow, installing a BOV, wastegate and boost controller.
what else am i missing. im expecting that to be a noob *** comment but i want you to know what i understand so far about the project.
I ALREADY HAVE
the fuel pump and some basic motor work done. i also have a gen 6 DFI and laptop. should that cover my tuning issues for the most part?
thats the turbo right there pretty much. then its just a matter of piping.
my concern is with the turbo getting hot as hell under the tank though. i know they are known to glow after a good run, does the turbo have to be mounted under the gas tank? or can it be mounted close? perhaps for even fast spooling...
the idea in my head is that various pipes and bends from somewhere like pepboys wont be that expensive. the oil plumbing kit isnt that much...
Here is my uneducated view...
turbo will be around 500ish.
piping will be a little over 100.
..car way up in the air on 4 stands and once the turbo is mounted to the exhaust then its just a matter of running the oil line to the pan, routing pipes to the intake elbow, installing a BOV, wastegate and boost controller.
what else am i missing. im expecting that to be a noob *** comment but i want you to know what i understand so far about the project.
I ALREADY HAVE
the fuel pump and some basic motor work done. i also have a gen 6 DFI and laptop. should that cover my tuning issues for the most part?
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Originally Posted by 95 Camaro Z28
I figure selling the injectors i have, the exhaust and the cai. i will net over 500 bucks.
thats the turbo right there pretty much. then its just a matter of piping.
my concern is with the turbo getting hot as hell under the tank though. i know they are known to glow after a good run, does the turbo have to be mounted under the gas tank? or can it be mounted close? perhaps for even fast spooling...
the idea in my head is that various pipes and bends from somewhere like pepboys wont be that expensive. the oil plumbing kit isnt that much...
Here is my uneducated view...
turbo will be around 500ish.
piping will be a little over 100.
..car way up in the air on 4 stands and once the turbo is mounted to the exhaust then its just a matter of running the oil line to the pan, routing pipes to the intake elbow, installing a BOV, wastegate and boost controller.
what else am i missing. im expecting that to be a noob *** comment but i want you to know what i understand so far about the project.
I ALREADY HAVE
the fuel pump and some basic motor work done. i also have a gen 6 DFI and laptop. should that cover my tuning issues for the most part?
thats the turbo right there pretty much. then its just a matter of piping.
my concern is with the turbo getting hot as hell under the tank though. i know they are known to glow after a good run, does the turbo have to be mounted under the gas tank? or can it be mounted close? perhaps for even fast spooling...
the idea in my head is that various pipes and bends from somewhere like pepboys wont be that expensive. the oil plumbing kit isnt that much...
Here is my uneducated view...
turbo will be around 500ish.
piping will be a little over 100.
..car way up in the air on 4 stands and once the turbo is mounted to the exhaust then its just a matter of running the oil line to the pan, routing pipes to the intake elbow, installing a BOV, wastegate and boost controller.
what else am i missing. im expecting that to be a noob *** comment but i want you to know what i understand so far about the project.
I ALREADY HAVE
the fuel pump and some basic motor work done. i also have a gen 6 DFI and laptop. should that cover my tuning issues for the most part?
Expect more for the tubing and couplers. Don not get those non-mandrel bent PB pipes. Get mandrel bent tubing.
You are forgetting tuning, wideband, oil return pump, braided steel return line (-10 AN) and maybe a few more things (check valves for PCV and oil feed on the turbo). Are you going to return to the oil pan? If so, that's better than returning to the oil filler cap. Mine always leaked and messed up my coil packs on the passenger side.
Originally Posted by Silver02Z28
The turbo will be fine under the tank. There should be a thin shield there already anyway.
Expect more for the tubing and couplers. Don not get those non-mandrel bent PB pipes. Get mandrel bent tubing.
You are forgetting tuning, wideband, oil return pump, braided steel return line (-10 AN) and maybe a few more things (check valves for PCV and oil feed on the turbo). Are you going to return to the oil pan? If so, that's better than returning to the oil filler cap. Mine always leaked and messed up my coil packs on the passenger side.
Expect more for the tubing and couplers. Don not get those non-mandrel bent PB pipes. Get mandrel bent tubing.
You are forgetting tuning, wideband, oil return pump, braided steel return line (-10 AN) and maybe a few more things (check valves for PCV and oil feed on the turbo). Are you going to return to the oil pan? If so, that's better than returning to the oil filler cap. Mine always leaked and messed up my coil packs on the passenger side.
could i get by with picking up a used Garrett 88m and running that? im sure i might have a little lag but i can get one for possibly around 300 from a local website.
is a wideband a must or will just a a/f gauge work?
as far as tuning do you think a few competent bodies and a gen 6 dfi can get the car pretty well set up?
by the way, thanks for being n00b friendly you guys. i know im probably asking easy questions for you guys but im just trying to learn as much as i can as quickly as possible.
while searching the site keeps me from asking these things alot of times questions are left unanswered.
im figuring if i can sell my 4" mufflex, 30 svo's and slp cai tube, and i just sold my 4" cowl for 400 bucks, i should have close to 1,000 before i dip into my personal funds or use up the few hundered i have on my credit card.
im excited about going turbo because honestly, it seems much less of a hassle than going with nitrous. i dont have to worry about stupid wiring diagrams and all that bullshit everyone hates.
i can probably pick up a good 100hp or so on semi low boost right? everything else just seems like basic nuts and bolts type of thing. weld the pipes.
the complicated thing i can think of is running the cold side of things from the turbo forward and where exactly it needs to be ran for clearance issues.
i also dont want my turbo scraping the ground since my car is lowered so maybe a steel cross bar between the sub frame connectors will fix that, if i can mount the turbo between them.
which brings up my main question. is the only place to mount the turbo under the gas tank or can it safely be mounted right after the ypipe?
while searching the site keeps me from asking these things alot of times questions are left unanswered.
im figuring if i can sell my 4" mufflex, 30 svo's and slp cai tube, and i just sold my 4" cowl for 400 bucks, i should have close to 1,000 before i dip into my personal funds or use up the few hundered i have on my credit card.
im excited about going turbo because honestly, it seems much less of a hassle than going with nitrous. i dont have to worry about stupid wiring diagrams and all that bullshit everyone hates.
i can probably pick up a good 100hp or so on semi low boost right? everything else just seems like basic nuts and bolts type of thing. weld the pipes.
the complicated thing i can think of is running the cold side of things from the turbo forward and where exactly it needs to be ran for clearance issues.
i also dont want my turbo scraping the ground since my car is lowered so maybe a steel cross bar between the sub frame connectors will fix that, if i can mount the turbo between them.
which brings up my main question. is the only place to mount the turbo under the gas tank or can it safely be mounted right after the ypipe?
Originally Posted by 95 Camaro Z28
yes i would return to the pan, i was under the assumption that the pressure of the system returned the oil. so i can see where the return pump is needed.
could i get by with picking up a used Garrett 88m and running that? im sure i might have a little lag but i can get one for possibly around 300 from a local website.
is a wideband a must or will just a a/f gauge work?
as far as tuning do you think a few competent bodies and a gen 6 dfi can get the car pretty well set up?
could i get by with picking up a used Garrett 88m and running that? im sure i might have a little lag but i can get one for possibly around 300 from a local website.
is a wideband a must or will just a a/f gauge work?
as far as tuning do you think a few competent bodies and a gen 6 dfi can get the car pretty well set up?
Also consider putting the turbo up front with a set of oem manifolds and crossover pipe, its about the same price as putting it in back if not cheaper.
Originally Posted by Boostaholic
You need to purchase a oil return pump and check valve or oil will leak out of the turbo.
Also consider putting the turbo up front with a set of oem manifolds and crossover pipe, its about the same price as putting it in back if not cheaper.
Also consider putting the turbo up front with a set of oem manifolds and crossover pipe, its about the same price as putting it in back if not cheaper.
i still dont know what turbo i need. i have been looking and cant seem to find what i need.
i already have 400rwhp and im not looking to really boost to any more than 600rwhp. if that sounds logical.
what kinda of psi so i need to hit no more than 600 but anywhere in the mid 5's is fine.
i see turbos for sale everywhere for like 300, 350, 400 used but i know what ones will work for me.
is the install of the turbo up front alot harder than running a rear mount?? and will i need an intercooler for a front mount at 6-7psi?
the engine bay is so cramped i just dont want to have to deal with removing massive amounts of stuff to get things to fit.
im pretty sure im in well over my head as i tend to bounce from the idea of nitrous to turbos frequently.
i dont have alot of mechanical ability. i can do alot of basics and im always up to learn.
a turbo install seems difficult but manageable since its pretty straight forward.
88mm is too big for your setup,
You'll need the little stuff like vband flange/clamp, oil fittings and lines (feed and return) were mentioned, oil pump, air filter, mandrel piping is a must and will cost you $200-300 easy, silicone couplers and clamps, perhaps an oil pressure switch/alarm, 42-60# injector... welding gas, wire, sawzall blades, grinding discs, wire wheel, cutoff wheels.
Honestly, since you would need an oil pump, make it easy and return the oil to the valvecover to prevent having to tap the oil pan.
A T70 would be fine for you.
You'll need the little stuff like vband flange/clamp, oil fittings and lines (feed and return) were mentioned, oil pump, air filter, mandrel piping is a must and will cost you $200-300 easy, silicone couplers and clamps, perhaps an oil pressure switch/alarm, 42-60# injector... welding gas, wire, sawzall blades, grinding discs, wire wheel, cutoff wheels.
Honestly, since you would need an oil pump, make it easy and return the oil to the valvecover to prevent having to tap the oil pan.
A T70 would be fine for you.
Originally Posted by 95 Camaro Z28
i thought you had to run the oil return line down stream from the turbo?
