Pro's and Con's to Speed Density Tuning on FI..
#2
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I am in SD 2 bar. Going to 3 bar with my new setup. I really dont have any complaints at all. It takes time to set it all up and build the proper tables but once its done it drives great and smooth. My idle locks in place with no surging or bucking. I will say that I have had to make changes in cold weather and hot weather. But other than that the OS's work very well for our cars. Its all in the amount of time and experience you have with tuning. That will be the key in order to a SD 2 or 3 bar car running correctly. We currently have my partners 2003 Z06 in 2 bar with 900 + to the wheels running very well. We have gone 500 mile road trips and it just drives so well and tame. Untill you smash the gas. It amazing how much power you can have and just get in the car and go. Hope that helps.
JMG
JMG
#3
Originally Posted by JMBLOWNWS6
I am in SD 2 bar. Going to 3 bar with my new setup. I really dont have any complaints at all. It takes time to set it all up and build the proper tables but once its done it drives great and smooth. My idle locks in place with no surging or bucking. I will say that I have had to make changes in cold weather and hot weather. But other than that the OS's work very well for our cars. Its all in the amount of time and experience you have with tuning. That will be the key in order to a SD 2 or 3 bar car running correctly. We currently have my partners 2003 Z06 in 2 bar with 900 + to the wheels running very well. We have gone 500 mile road trips and it just drives so well and tame. Untill you smash the gas. It amazing how much power you can have and just get in the car and go. Hope that helps.
JMG
JMG
#4
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The major disadvantage for me is that I don't do my own tuning. It takes many many hours/ days even to get the tune dialed in. If you are not doing your own tuning, you will be hard pressed to find a tuner who will do it for you, and then if you do, it will cost a LOT of coin.
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Originally Posted by VINCE
What you just said is what I have heard as well. I have no intentions of pushing past 900rwhp. My clutch wont hold it and I dont think the rest of the drivetrain would last very long..
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Originally Posted by longrange4u
I have heard of MAF-T and some other things too... how do they compare to SD?
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Originally Posted by ss53mech
I got a newbie question on this, speed density versus what? By speed density I assume you are talking about using, the maf setup as opposed to map/tps.
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Originally Posted by longrange4u
Any drawbacks or benifits to that vs: SD?
#13
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For small setups like 8lbs of boost you really don't need SD. We ussually switch to SD on 10+lbs with Cams or Turbo cars. SD is also better with low vacuum motor's from big Cams. Setting it up is not hard but tuning it in takes time.We ussually take 2-3 days of driving,Tried a load dyno but the tune was too far off on the road after. I do suggest you run a permanent wideband if in SD though.
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ok well I am rather new to FI and SD tuning, but I am building a turbo set up and was considering going with a SD tune. What kind of up keep on the tune is there? (do you have to adjust things according to temp, etc) What is a estimate on price for this kind of tune as I would not be doing it myself? What is 2 bar and 3 bar SD and the difference? Any other input that would help me out I would appreciate. Thanks.
#16
FormerVendor
I have tuned many cars using HP tuners 2/3 bar OS. As far as tuning is concerned it is my favorite thing to work with and IMHO the only proper way to accurately tune a forced induction car capable of maxing out the MAF sensor.
Driveability is exceptional, much better than the MAF. Change your boost level on the fly and fueling is perfect at any setting. Just make sure you have the proper octane fuel in the tank for a given power level.
Once tuning is completed no further changes or adjustments are necessary. Their are millions of cars on the road built and tuned speed density from the factory. They (like the LS1) do not need to be re-flashed when the weather changes.
Driveability is exceptional, much better than the MAF. Change your boost level on the fly and fueling is perfect at any setting. Just make sure you have the proper octane fuel in the tank for a given power level.
Once tuning is completed no further changes or adjustments are necessary. Their are millions of cars on the road built and tuned speed density from the factory. They (like the LS1) do not need to be re-flashed when the weather changes.
#18
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Originally Posted by INTMD8
I have tuned many cars using HP tuners 2/3 bar OS. As far as tuning is concerned it is my favorite thing to work with and IMHO the only proper way to accurately tune a forced induction car capable of maxing out the MAF sensor.
Driveability is exceptional, much better than the MAF. Change your boost level on the fly and fueling is perfect at any setting. Just make sure you have the proper octane fuel in the tank for a given power level.
Once tuning is completed no further changes or adjustments are necessary. Their are millions of cars on the road built and tuned speed density from the factory. They (like the LS1) do not need to be re-flashed when the weather changes.
Driveability is exceptional, much better than the MAF. Change your boost level on the fly and fueling is perfect at any setting. Just make sure you have the proper octane fuel in the tank for a given power level.
Once tuning is completed no further changes or adjustments are necessary. Their are millions of cars on the road built and tuned speed density from the factory. They (like the LS1) do not need to be re-flashed when the weather changes.
#20
Originally Posted by mdhmi
I'm sure SD is great when done right - but FWIW I haven't had any issues with my MAF setup at 13-15 psi boost. My car runs mid 10's @ 138 MPH without meth in the summer heat on pump fuel so I can't complain.