just keep in mind you may end up with a car that is less useful and more dangerous than you bargained for (or spent a sh!tload on)

i love mine and wouldn't have it any other way

 

I have one for sale that should hold that power level.

I run a 6 speed with over 800 rwhp and it is tough to keep up with the shifts. I like the overdrive, buts it's hard to launch. My faceplated unit is nice in the aspect that you do not have to lift between shifts.

 

I saw your thread in the for sale section but I want to stay with a synchronized trans. I am taking my trans up to G-force this afternoon to have them put all their stuff in it. It is expensive but I think in the long run it is definitely worth it.

 

This is a heffner performance viper twin turbo M6. 8.78 @ 168mph pass and thats granny shifting to save the stock t56.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IOpuGVoyCk

 

Whats that running you roughly?

 

$4000.

 

I get the same thing.

Welcome to LS1tech.com The land of, "It can't be done". If someone here doesn't have it, or wishes they could have it and can't, it just can't be done.

1,000 RWHP is old news, just gotta find the right builder.




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Amen



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I would always take a stick over an auto but......... for 2 grand you can easily get a fully built auto that will hold 1500 hp with rmvb...... That is just crazy is you ask me..... I would like to know what the hell is going in that they are charging you $4000 for? A built t56 usually goes for 2500 if i recall? Or did you go all out and get everything you possibly could done? Either way thats just an out of hand price bro.......

 

G force is expensive...but if you spent money on big turbo/engine combo and are making 1,000+ rwhp, then what's 4 or 5 grand for a T56 that will take the abuse? Besides, us M6 guys have more fun.

 

Yes G-force is expensive but you check around and the people that are making around 1000 rwhp they will tell you they which they would of went G-force or they have and they love it. For $4k you get thriple cone gear set 1-4 and thriple cone synchro kit with 9310 High Nickel main shaft (30 spline). So basically all new gears and shafts except 5th and 6th.

 

Anyone have some approximate prices for these types of clutches?
Mcleod Street Twin
Textrailia Triple
Spec Twin

 

lol yea it may be more fun...... And another 4 or 5 grand is exactly what you said..... Its another 4 or 5 grand ..... I see it being worth it if the tranny were to never fail.... which i doubt it will ever have that or close to of a reliabilty factor.... But when you spend that kind of money and get beat by an auto the m6 guys tend to not have as much fun

 

Come down to south Florida, I'll have my friend show you how to roll race from 50mph in his 1200+ RWHP TT Heffner Viper and go WOT in a matter of a few seconds........and HOOK from there to 180mph. Its common down here.



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yeah did this like 4 years ago. The new setup should hit 1500rwhp if i crank on it

 

SPEC:
2-Disc
SS-Trim P-Trim ST-Trim E-Trim
Product Number: SC09SST SC09PT SC09ST SC09ET
Torque Capacity: 900 1395 1595 1795
Usage: S,D,RR S,D,DR,RR S,D,DR,RR S,D,DR
Pricing: $1399 $1599 $1899 $1999
Choose Here
*Usage Key: S = Street, L = Limited Street, D = Drag, DR = Drift, RR = Road Racing/Time Attack, P = Pulling, R =
people are putting down 1000rwhp with a spec 5
Textralia has an exo-skel multidisk listed for $1250 with flywheel
Mcleod street twin is listed at $1600 with flywheel

 

yea, my new set up will be 2 or 3000hp if i ever just get around to doing it.. or just look at my friends moms uncles doctor who doesnt know me but has 4000hp and it drives like stock on pump gas

edwardswb the steps i reccomend you take are:

-find a car that is *like* what you think you want your end result to be.. ask how much was spent, go for a ride
-assess how hands on you are.. if you can handle maintenance / small repair of a much more complicated car than what you have now.
-continue your research
-line up with a reputable engine and turbo company that will fill your needs and provide good technical support
-look into tuning and fuel system as they are both major major parts of a sucessful FI build, consider pump gas vs. race gas vs. alky spray etc. and how you will use the car.
-select a driveline that suits how you want it to be.

from m6 to a4 while shifting gears is more fun, shifting in a race situation gets very complicated fast.. changing gears every 2.5 seconds or so keeps you very busy.. ive found that just hanging on and enjoying the ride still leaves plenty to do AND typically is more sucessful, quicker and faster. also my 4l80e investment came out about a grand cheaper than what the next step would have had to be with a t-56

 

I find driving with the wastgate wide open (8-9 PSI) to be more enjoyable than with the boost turned up. Even with a tight suspension and way overkill brakes (20 pistons) everything comes too fast and is unpredictable. Definately with an open highway high boost is funnerist... but otherwise for a street car there's not much point to it. It does impress other men on the internet though.

David makes a perfect point above. Find someone else who has it, see if its what you want, and find out what it took to get it.

 

Good luck in the build Edward, go for it. Some of the veterans on here have made big power and have suffered some problems here and there, and they are frankly trying to help you out, but heck, go for it and keep in mind folk's suggestions.

Quickin aka Lyle? on the other hand, you've posted those threads for a few years, so why don't you pull the trigger and build a monster combo. Best way to shut up the naysayers is to walk the walk rather than post a new what-if thread every couple of months.... no flames but clearly you have asked about this 5-6 times, I can bring up the old threads.

ADMIN

 

ok come to mass and take my car out with him, hes done it with my car and me in it.