Procharged LM7

Man it's been kind of a rough week. They call me back to the shop, and are listening to my blower thru a stethoscope. They say that is sounds like a bearing is bad, or the impellor is scraping on the housing, because it chatters, and rattles pretty loudly. I just did the oil change on it(first one) a couple days ago. there was nothing in the oil, but it was dark. The drain plug had barely a little super fine dust type material on it which I think is probably normal. It has never been run w/o oil. When I talked to ATI after installing it, they told me the loud rattling/chattering was normal and don't worry about it.
The guy at the dyno shop takes me over to a Mustang with a P-1sc blower on it, and it makes absolutley no noise except the whine/whistle. No chattering, or any of that. They also said they have a Vette with one, and it makes none of this noise. They will not dyno it now, and it is the only place in town with a wideband.
WTF am I supposed to do now?
I can't get emissions(am taking it to the city referee station to have them look at it fri morning)
ATI is closed for the day of course now, and I couldn't get thru earlier today. I thought that the ATI's all sounded like mine. Any help is appreciated. I am about to take it off and say F it at this point after spending 4-5 grand on it, and my injectors.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Mine sounded like a rock tumbler and ATI said it was normal. I put 12,000 miles on it and have never had a problem with the charger. It is a P-1SC-1 model. Once you got some rpms up the rattling would go away and you'd just hear the whine.

Take a release form in there or something saying you won't hold them responsible if the charger flies apart.

John

Procharged LM7

Thanks John, that's what mine sounds like too, and many that people on the board own too, but that's kinda hard to tell them ya know? especially when they have a Mustang there with the same blower, that is quiet, except the whine. Also, a Vette with the P-1SC that's quiet. I am going back on Friday to talk to the owner, and see what he says. They are the only place in town with a wideband, so I can't get a A/F reading w/o them. I asked if I can sign a release, and they said no, but I will ask the owner. I have a feeling he will say the same.Man this really sucks. Looks like I may be spending some more $ on a mobile wideband like Parish has.

Wouldn't the oil have some crap in it, if there was something wrong?

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

The way mine sounded I didn't think it had oil in it. I took it back off the car, drained and refilled it just to make sure.

I kept the oil changed every 3,000 miles and it was prefect looking. There would be just a slight hint of grey but, it was still mostly the bluish green color.

See if you can get the owner of the dyno place on the phone with somebody at ATI. It doesn't sound like they want to take any chances but, I don't understand why they won't do up a release paper. That's kinda rediculous.

I wonder what rpm the blowers on the Mustang and Vette are spinning at idle. I know when I would bring the car rpms up to around 1100-1300rpm the rattle would go away. That was with a 4.1" pulley on the blower.

Hope you get things squared away.

John

Procharged LM7

I told them the same thing, that if I turn the idle up, that the rattling goes away. But you can hear some noise thru the stetho even when this goes away(increasing rpm's a little), until it gets up in RPM's. I will have to get them on the phone like you say. Thanks for your help.

last of the Z28's

it might not so much what happens to your car but what might happen to the shop if something lets go? i do not have a s/c but fom reading through these posts for almost a year everyone seems to report and ask about that sound. good luck. isnt there something out there that we can check our air/fuel ratio with at home?

Reckless

iTrader: (9)

Why don't you just ask them to call ATI?

Black LS1 T/A

Mine chatters. It is the step-up gears.

Some chatter louder than others because of the cut of the gears.

Smaller pulleys tend to take the sound up to a whine, away from the chattering sound.

Black LS1 T/A

Of COURSE a stethoscope would detect the step-up gears even at higher idle speeds. What IDJUTS!

Procharged LM7

Thanks for the help Michael, I knoew there was nothing wrong with it. I am now faced with trying to tune it by myself, as I have been. I pulled a plug yesterday, and it is running lean, I can tell. My Ltrims are pretty close to zero, a little negative, my PE is set at 65% TPS until 3600RPM's, then at 60% TPS after.
Do you know how I can fatten up the PE so I am dumping more fuel in there? I am not getting any help from the other posts so I thought I would ask you. I have an appt tomorrow with the city emissions faciltiy, since the testinf place saw the blower, called the city place, and the city place said I have to bring it down, since my CARB # is not past pending status or some BS.
Anyway if it passes, then I can do what I want to the fuel system, if not, I may have to take it off then get tested.
frickin Alaska emissions crap.
Anyway any help about the PE would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for you help. Sam

Black LS1 T/A

This assumes you have good LTFT's (The values you say you have look good, and since you are running lean, it seems you are likely at 0 LTFT's at WOT, but check anyway.)

At WOT, log O2's, Timing, KR, RPMs and Injector Pulse width.

Try to get like 920 to 930 or so mV (one side will likely be different from the other). If you see it dropping toward 900mV or lower, at the corresponding RPM ranges, increase that PE/RPM value a bit.

Make another run. O2's should have come up some. If you need more, do it again. If you are at, like 950 mV or greater, bring it back down some... split the difference between what you did and where you were before.

If no matter HOW HIGH you raise it, O2's go down while InjPW goes up, you're not getting enough fuel in that RPM range. See if your fuel pressure is nose-diving. If not, you need larger injectors. If it IS dropping quickly, you need more pump AND may need larger injectors. (I doubt if that is likely in your case.)

Another thing to look at is your KR. If it is excessive, adding fuel MAY quench it. If not, you may have to back off timing in the WOT range (I vary at around .88 to 1.00 gms/cyl) in the corresponding RPM ranges.

Finally, if your PE/RPM table is jacked too high beyond stock to get a good A/F ratio, your Injector Flow Rate table may need adjusting. Since your LTFT's are steady and negative, that doesn't seem likely, either.

Give me those guys' phone number (at the dyno), I will call them and reinforce your claim about the step-up gears. I'll be nice, so they are open to changing their minds.

Procharged LM7

I have not messed with them at all, so they are stock. I have only changed the TPS % for PE WOT when it goes into PE. I am sure this(PEvs RPM) is what I am not matching up on.
I don't care if it is really fat at higher rpm's, because I can adjust it from there, once I learn how to adjust them.

I would be glad for you to call the shop, but I want to talk to the actual owner who does the tuning if he ever shows up to the shop. It was his guys, and his wife(who is an ASE tech, and certified in Fuel inj, forced induction systems, and some other junk) that refused me the dyno.I found it weird that she couldn't call him at home to ask him about doing it. He has supposedly been sick for a week or so.Anyway, he is the one that has to do the tuning anyway, so I couldn't have had that done. I guess they could have called me and told me this before I went down there, but.........

I am starting to see that maybe the PE vs rpm may be my problem of leaning out, because it hasn't been changed at all. This gives me hope!! Thanks Michael!! you have been a great help.

I tried changing the PE Vs Rpm a little. I multiplied it x 114% as stated in a LS1Edit reply to me from a while ago. I had no idea what he was talking about, but I see now. I notice on my Atap run just now I got less KR, and 02's were always in 935-975 at PE and or WOT. I am going to pull a plug and see if it looks different than it did when it was lean. Hope so. I notice when I started the truck, I smelled that rich smell from fuel, it must have been in open loop when I started it.

I pulled a plug, but I don't think it has been long enough, cause it looks the exact same. I only drove about 5 miles of logging, and a few wot runs. I have all my shift points really low, like 5200, so I don't blow it up.(hopefully)