LE2 355 with a P1-SC procharger?
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LE2 355 with a P1-SC procharger? Well I am going on Nov 10th to pick up a 96 Formula WS6 that I just bought. It has a full suspension, stock bottom end with a LE2 kit on it. It has 4.10's in the rear now in the stock 10 bolt.
I planned on putting a forged bottom end it in a spraying a lot of juice to it. But, lately I have really been leaning towards a Procharger kit. I found one cheap that is a P1-SC HO unit with the twin intercoolers.
So basically, my question is, if I did a 4 bolt splayed main with the stock crank, Compstar rods, and forged 8.5:1 Compression pistons, would it be okay to run the kit with around 8-9PSI of boost?
I like nitrous and how much power it adds, but hate having to fill the bottle up and warm it before every run.
Also, what else would I need to look at as far as extra accessories to go with the Procharger kit?
I planned on putting a forged bottom end it in a spraying a lot of juice to it. But, lately I have really been leaning towards a Procharger kit. I found one cheap that is a P1-SC HO unit with the twin intercoolers.
So basically, my question is, if I did a 4 bolt splayed main with the stock crank, Compstar rods, and forged 8.5:1 Compression pistons, would it be okay to run the kit with around 8-9PSI of boost?
I like nitrous and how much power it adds, but hate having to fill the bottle up and warm it before every run.
Also, what else would I need to look at as far as extra accessories to go with the Procharger kit?
I wouldnt use the stock crank. Go with an Eagle of Callies or something.
I built a 383 LT1 with a Vortech a couple years ago. Still running strong to this day. Getting ready to up the boost. Runs 12.3 at about 117 consistent. Thats on a street tire, with a 2+ sec 60. Oh yeah, forgot to mention its an Impala SS that weighs like 4000 pounds or more.
I built a 383 LT1 with a Vortech a couple years ago. Still running strong to this day. Getting ready to up the boost. Runs 12.3 at about 117 consistent. Thats on a street tire, with a 2+ sec 60. Oh yeah, forgot to mention its an Impala SS that weighs like 4000 pounds or more.
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Thats good for an impala. The car is running a 12.4 now all motor so I'm hoping to dip low into the 11's with a procharger.
Why not use the stock crank? I've heard they are strong enough and I was going to use it to spray a 200 shot.
Why not use the stock crank? I've heard they are strong enough and I was going to use it to spray a 200 shot.
BTW the stock pistons hate boost too.
You could get away with that for a long time. I had a stock crank, 9 to1 compression, 355 LT1, eagle I beam rods, ross pistons, baby cam (IE 212 @ .050) pocket ported heads with P600B, and a larger front mount, that put right at 500 to the tire and went a best of 10.87 @128. I was seeing max of 10 lbs on the guage, I dont remember what it was pullied for, IIRC it was supposed to be 12# pullies.......We drove the snot out of it for many years......
You could get away with that for a long time. I had a stock crank, 9 to1 compression, 355 LT1, eagle I beam rods, ross pistons, baby cam (IE 212 @ .050) pocket ported heads with P600B, and a larger front mount, that put right at 500 to the tire and went a best of 10.87 @128. I was seeing max of 10 lbs on the guage, I dont remember what it was pullied for, IIRC it was supposed to be 12# pullies.......We drove the snot out of it for many years......
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Ya I have had decent luck with them, what eventually killed the motor is a valve spring retainer went to ****, it sucked a valve and proceded to chew vigioursly and destroy pretty much everything. Currently am building a new motor, forged crank, oliver rods, JE pistons etc.....
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They're made of a better metal than the earlier ones, but they are still a cast crank. For me, if I'm building engines I have to put my name on, and stand behind, I'm not building high output stuff with questionable parts.
I've seen factory LS cranks go close to 1000 hp at the wheels. Thats crazy power for a stock crank. I dont think I would use one even though I've seen it with my own eyes.
I've seen factory LS cranks go close to 1000 hp at the wheels. Thats crazy power for a stock crank. I dont think I would use one even though I've seen it with my own eyes.
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They're made of a better metal than the earlier ones, but they are still a cast crank. For me, if I'm building engines I have to put my name on, and stand behind, I'm not building high output stuff with questionable parts.
I've seen factory LS cranks go close to 1000 hp at the wheels. Thats crazy power for a stock crank. I dont think I would use one even though I've seen it with my own eyes.
I've seen factory LS cranks go close to 1000 hp at the wheels. Thats crazy power for a stock crank. I dont think I would use one even though I've seen it with my own eyes.
But where I am building it for me and it is going to be a fast weekend car, the stocker is fine for me!
A decent forged aftermarket crank for those this is like 500 bucks. Good insurance money if you ask me. You're not talking about a lil spray here and there. A SC with 10# and up is some pretty stout cylinder pressure. Just not worth the chance if you ask me. I'd rather build em to last than build em to chance.
Check out my brother Jon's '95 Formula that has a P-1SC on an internally stock LT1, that runs 11.31/11.32 in the 1/4 at 118 mph. Bob
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...tCar.php?car=7
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...tCar.php?car=7
Plus, there is no way nodular iron would stand up to the hp that LS cranks are capable of.
Nodular iron is a material. Forge or cast is a process.
Nope, Forged. And not nodular iron either. Can take a picture of one sitting in my shop right now. Its def forged. I can tell the difference, can you?
Plus, there is no way nodular iron would stand up to the hp that LS cranks are capable of.
Nodular iron is a material. Forge or cast is a process.
Plus, there is no way nodular iron would stand up to the hp that LS cranks are capable of.
Nodular iron is a material. Forge or cast is a process.
http://www.idavette.net/hib/ls1c.html
"Crankshaft Specifications
Material
Cast Nodular Iron" (in a chart)
http://www.smokemup.com/tech/ls1.php
"The LS6 crankshaft is the same cast, nodular iron unit with rolled-fillet journals used by LS1s since 1997."
http://www.idavette.net/hib/ls6/page3.htm
Search on LS1Tech'll tell you it's nodular iron, too.
I don't believe everything I read on the internet, but I don't have many other sources to throw at you right now.
"The crankshaft material is cast, nodular iron, the same used for Gen II and many Gen I cranks."
http://www.idavette.net/hib/ls1c.html
"Crankshaft Specifications
Material
Cast Nodular Iron" (in a chart)
http://www.smokemup.com/tech/ls1.php
"The LS6 crankshaft is the same cast, nodular iron unit with rolled-fillet journals used by LS1s since 1997."
http://www.idavette.net/hib/ls6/page3.htm
Search on LS1Tech'll tell you it's nodular iron, too.
I don't believe everything I read on the internet, but I don't have many other sources to throw at you right now.
http://www.idavette.net/hib/ls1c.html
"Crankshaft Specifications
Material
Cast Nodular Iron" (in a chart)
http://www.smokemup.com/tech/ls1.php
"The LS6 crankshaft is the same cast, nodular iron unit with rolled-fillet journals used by LS1s since 1997."
http://www.idavette.net/hib/ls6/page3.htm
Search on LS1Tech'll tell you it's nodular iron, too.
I don't believe everything I read on the internet, but I don't have many other sources to throw at you right now.
I hear what they say, and I know what I see. I see a wide parting line of a FORGING. Not a pencil thin line of a casting.