Got the new setup on the dyno
10-29-2007, 12:02 PM
#101
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I was having the same problem with my line lock yesterday at the track and ended up just heel/toeing it to get a nice big burnout. I am going to rebuild my solenoid (hurst) and also put new rotors/pads/rebuild the calipers and see if it helps.
10-29-2007, 12:51 PM
#102
put your left foot on the brake pedal after you drop the clutch.
i think your traction had to do with the track/prep. it did not look state of the art.
the new tread pattern 18" bfg's do good.
i think the 295 35/18 hooks better than the 315/30 cuz of the sidewall.
i was running them here:
http://home.comcast.net/~mightym0use/1078pump.wmv
i think your traction had to do with the track/prep. it did not look state of the art.
the new tread pattern 18" bfg's do good.
i think the 295 35/18 hooks better than the 315/30 cuz of the sidewall.
i was running them here:
http://home.comcast.net/~mightym0use/1078pump.wmv
10-29-2007, 01:41 PM
#103
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put your left foot on the brake pedal after you drop the clutch.
i think your traction had to do with the track/prep. it did not look state of the art.
the new tread pattern 18" bfg's do good.
i think the 295 35/18 hooks better than the 315/30 cuz of the sidewall.
i was running them here:
http://home.comcast.net/~mightym0use/1078pump.wmv
i think your traction had to do with the track/prep. it did not look state of the art.
the new tread pattern 18" bfg's do good.
i think the 295 35/18 hooks better than the 315/30 cuz of the sidewall.
i was running them here:
http://home.comcast.net/~mightym0use/1078pump.wmv
10-29-2007, 02:44 PM
#105
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dude why are you wasting your time running on the 18's? you'll never hook with that much power and its dangerous cause you'll spin on the high end and possibly lose control.
10-29-2007, 02:59 PM
#106
put your left foot on the brake pedal after you drop the clutch.
i think your traction had to do with the track/prep. it did not look state of the art.
the new tread pattern 18" bfg's do good.
i think the 295 35/18 hooks better than the 315/30 cuz of the sidewall.
i was running them here:
http://home.comcast.net/~mightym0use/1078pump.wmv
i think your traction had to do with the track/prep. it did not look state of the art.
the new tread pattern 18" bfg's do good.
i think the 295 35/18 hooks better than the 315/30 cuz of the sidewall.
i was running them here:
http://home.comcast.net/~mightym0use/1078pump.wmv
I wouldn't even worry about skinnies up front either. I'm a weeny though. I'd want as much tread on the front as possible to help steer when the back end got loose at 150+ mph. It's not like you don't have the power to make up for the weight.
10-29-2007, 04:10 PM
#109
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That's what I use to run and I never really had to much of a problem. I just wouldn't feel safe on them with 1000+ hp. I don't know much about why the line lock didn't work though. I didn't have one, so the old violent heel/toe method was used. It's just so freakin hard on the rear brakes.
I'm with you on this one. Get some dedicated slicks. With my pathetic 375 whp, I still would brake the rear loose on a 1-2 shift using the bfg dr's. It was only if the track was cold, but hell, he's running 3 times the amount of power and tq. At least some et streets.
I wouldn't even worry about skinnies up front either. I'm a weeny though. I'd want as much tread on the front as possible to help steer when the back end got loose at 150+ mph. It's not like you don't have the power to make up for the weight.
I'm with you on this one. Get some dedicated slicks. With my pathetic 375 whp, I still would brake the rear loose on a 1-2 shift using the bfg dr's. It was only if the track was cold, but hell, he's running 3 times the amount of power and tq. At least some et streets.
I wouldn't even worry about skinnies up front either. I'm a weeny though. I'd want as much tread on the front as possible to help steer when the back end got loose at 150+ mph. It's not like you don't have the power to make up for the weight.
slicks in the back with no skinnies on the front = wall
skinnies are a must with a real race tire.
10-29-2007, 04:11 PM
#110
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Install automatic and = Attachment 108720
10-29-2007, 04:25 PM
#111
I've never had the power to need slicks and skinnies, but those little tires up front make me nervous.
10-29-2007, 04:36 PM
#112
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lots of supra guys run 3 walbros, i consider them all around a better option than a RACE pump on a STREET car.
next step for me from my 2 walbros would be 1 walbro and one bosch 044 (im on the verge of trying both of these inside the stock tank) i have the pump waiting to try since i knew i coud not fit 3 255's in there.
if that didnt get me where i wanted i would do a pair of 044s but prolly have to buy a fab tank or sump the stocker.
the LAST thing i would do is a weldon or aeromotive on MY car. $.02
next step for me from my 2 walbros would be 1 walbro and one bosch 044 (im on the verge of trying both of these inside the stock tank) i have the pump waiting to try since i knew i coud not fit 3 255's in there.
if that didnt get me where i wanted i would do a pair of 044s but prolly have to buy a fab tank or sump the stocker.
the LAST thing i would do is a weldon or aeromotive on MY car. $.02
2 on all the time..and the 3rd on boost to an aero control source...i only have it about 50% power and my fuel supply is more than adequate.
i agree...3 walbros > external race pump. one of the first hp ls1 my shop did the guy had an external pump aero pump 1000x something or another...in the heat of the summer the thing would shut off...would wait for it to cool down..off again. replaced the pump thinking it was bad...new pump did the same thing. he then switch to 2 walbros.
10-31-2007, 09:44 PM
#120
Sweet Tiago!! I think that is the first turbo setup I've seen that makes more HP than TQ. Looks like the numbers of a SC car or a huge N/A. I'm not a big turbo guy, so please excuse me if I sound dumb here, but why is that? Is it because the turbos are maxed out???