manifolds or headers??
02-12-2008, 06:42 PM
#1
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manifolds or headers?? i wanted to use the truck manifolds but from what ive read, it wont work in a g-body. i can make my own headers. my question is, wich will make more power?? i would assume the headers would be better but i thought i also read people that have a rear mounted turbo are being told to switch back to manifolds. this will be a front mounted turbo. wich do i go with?? any dyno numbers or theorys?? thanks!!
02-12-2008, 06:55 PM
#2
You can make a set of shorty headers and mount the turbos right in front of the motor. I've seen a ton of these made, make sure to use thick wall stainless and thick flanges 3/8" - 1/2".
As far as theories?? What do you mean, what size tubing to use on primary's or collector's?
As far as dyno numbers I have seen motors make over 2,000 hp with shorty headers with turbos mounted to them.
Reason guys don't run headers on rear mounted setups is because it has a slower spool time and the truck manifolds hold the heat better which keeps the exhaust velocity higher.
What model year g-body? Like a malibu, gn or monte carlo?
As far as theories?? What do you mean, what size tubing to use on primary's or collector's?
As far as dyno numbers I have seen motors make over 2,000 hp with shorty headers with turbos mounted to them.
Reason guys don't run headers on rear mounted setups is because it has a slower spool time and the truck manifolds hold the heat better which keeps the exhaust velocity higher.
What model year g-body? Like a malibu, gn or monte carlo?
02-12-2008, 06:58 PM
#3
I think the manifolds have proven themselves over and over to be plenty sufficient to make the BIGGEST of power. Look at the Ohio Boys they run manifolds. LMR and Steven Fereday run tube headers. I don't think you can go wrong with either one. If you're looking for something to be shiny and showy, then go with the tube headers, but if you're just looking for the performance and want to save a little money to be used on something else then I would go with the manifolds.
02-12-2008, 07:01 PM
#4
I think the manifolds have proven themselves over and over to be plenty sufficient to make the BIGGEST of power. Look at the Ohio Boys they run manifolds. LMR and Steven Fereday run tube headers. I don't think you can go wrong with either one. If you're looking for something to be shiny and showy, then go with the tube headers, but if you're just looking for the performance and want to save a little money to be used on something else then I would go with the manifolds.
02-12-2008, 07:18 PM
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right.. in a grand national. another member did it, and the drivers side points right at the steering box on the truck manifolds. you cant use them is the way it looks. what im asking is, if manifolds or headers would make more power? theories as in, adding headers to a motor will make lots of power. is this the same on a turbo car?? i might have to do the headers but will it cost me power?
02-12-2008, 07:36 PM
#6
Check out my build up photos
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/862310-79-camaro-build-up-6-0-l92-twin-s366-s-build-pics-inside.html
I am using Caddy CTS-V manifolds which should also fit your G-body car because your suspension layout is similar to mine.
Fabricating the turbo plumbing is much easier if you can use cast manifolds as a starting point.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/862310-79-camaro-build-up-6-0-l92-twin-s366-s-build-pics-inside.html
I am using Caddy CTS-V manifolds which should also fit your G-body car because your suspension layout is similar to mine.
Fabricating the turbo plumbing is much easier if you can use cast manifolds as a starting point.
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02-12-2008, 08:15 PM
#9
I didn't tell the CTS-V manifolds what type of head I was putting them on...
The 90* mandrel bends are 3" OD pipe with a smooth 4.5" centerline radius,
so I can't imagine they will be much of a restriction at only 12" long.
Here is another pic from a different angle to show that they are actually not tight bends at all.
Custom turbo headers sure are nice looking, but I can think of other ways to spend over $1,000 and/or a few dozen hours of fabrication time.
The Ohio boys and a million others have proven how much power can be had from stock cast manifolds.
If you can find manifolds that will work out for you, I say go for it!
The 90* mandrel bends are 3" OD pipe with a smooth 4.5" centerline radius,
so I can't imagine they will be much of a restriction at only 12" long.
Here is another pic from a different angle to show that they are actually not tight bends at all.
Custom turbo headers sure are nice looking, but I can think of other ways to spend over $1,000 and/or a few dozen hours of fabrication time.
The Ohio boys and a million others have proven how much power can be had from stock cast manifolds.
If you can find manifolds that will work out for you, I say go for it!
Last edited by camarols1; 02-12-2008 at 08:46 PM.
02-12-2008, 08:53 PM
#10
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how does it look for spark plug wire clearance? think you will be able to keep stock or gonna relocate the coils?
that is a great idea that i may have to go that route for mine
that is a great idea that i may have to go that route for mine
02-14-2008, 09:10 AM
#13
Yes, the driver side manifold is too close to the valve cover, so I will have to
relocate the coils.
I you were to use a GTO or Vette LS2 manifold on the driver side and a CTS-V manifold on the passenger you will not have to relocate the coils.
This is what TOOSLO5 did and it works well.
Here is Dave's setup below.
relocate the coils.
I you were to use a GTO or Vette LS2 manifold on the driver side and a CTS-V manifold on the passenger you will not have to relocate the coils.
This is what TOOSLO5 did and it works well.
Here is Dave's setup below.
02-14-2008, 10:59 AM
#14
I didn't tell the CTS-V manifolds what type of head I was putting them on...
The 90* mandrel bends are 3" OD pipe with a smooth 4.5" centerline radius,
so I can't imagine they will be much of a restriction at only 12" long.
Here is another pic from a different angle to show that they are actually not tight bends at all.
Custom turbo headers sure are nice looking, but I can think of other ways to spend over $1,000 and/or a few dozen hours of fabrication time.
The Ohio boys and a million others have proven how much power can be had from stock cast manifolds.
If you can find manifolds that will work out for you, I say go for it!
The 90* mandrel bends are 3" OD pipe with a smooth 4.5" centerline radius,
so I can't imagine they will be much of a restriction at only 12" long.
Here is another pic from a different angle to show that they are actually not tight bends at all.
Custom turbo headers sure are nice looking, but I can think of other ways to spend over $1,000 and/or a few dozen hours of fabrication time.
The Ohio boys and a million others have proven how much power can be had from stock cast manifolds.
If you can find manifolds that will work out for you, I say go for it!
02-14-2008, 05:41 PM
#16
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CamaroLS1 and I both ran the same the same pipe, 16 ga which runs about065-.070 depending on where you measure it. camarols1 is using 2 bolt flanges that are 3/8" thick and use the factory sealing ring. I am using one CTSV manifold so I am only using the 2 bolt on one side and three bolt on the other. I had the flanges made up at a local machine shop. If anyone needs a set let me know. We are both planning on supporting our turbos so I dont think it will be much of an issue. As fas as sealing goes I guess we will find out it it works!
If you use the truck manifold on the DS you have to relocate the coils on the factory bracket a bit. I drilled and tapped holes on three of the four coils slightly higher than the factory location and plug wire issues shold not be a problem.
If you use the truck manifold on the DS you have to relocate the coils on the factory bracket a bit. I drilled and tapped holes on three of the four coils slightly higher than the factory location and plug wire issues shold not be a problem.
02-14-2008, 09:22 PM
#17
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so you were able to keep your coils? im just trying to do as little of work as possible! lmao (arent we all) plus i only wants to have to buy the right parts once
02-15-2008, 01:28 AM
#18
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Was able to keep the coils by moving them up just a little on the factory bracket. Just got back in from working on the car and I think #7 needs to move up a bit from where I have it located now. You will also have to clearance the bracket slightly at the top of each coil. This will make more sense when you get into the project. Each coil has cooling fins and a clip on the top which will hit the bracket unless you clearance it. Time for a beer!
and then some sleep!
and then some sleep!
02-16-2008, 12:41 AM
#19
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got any pics? are stock coils very expensive. im trying to decide if i should get a running motor to get stuff like that or if i should get just a block since its going to be all after market anyway. lol
02-16-2008, 01:20 AM
#20
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Take a look at post #13. Thats my car. I went with a pull out from Schram on e bay. I needed everything so I went that route rather than trying to piece everything together.