LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
this might sound strang , but i had my whole coil tray switched from side to side ( pass. side was on the driver side and vise versa) and the car would not run, just pop.
so try swapping the whole coil tray from side to side and see if that works.
did you take the coils off the tray by and chance?
so try swapping the whole coil tray from side to side and see if that works.
did you take the coils off the tray by and chance?
this might sound strang , but i had my whole coil tray switched from side to side ( pass. side was on the driver side and vise versa) and the car would not run, just pop.
so try swapping the whole coil tray from side to side and see if that works.
did you take the coils off the tray by and chance?
so try swapping the whole coil tray from side to side and see if that works.
did you take the coils off the tray by and chance?
Did the coil thing work, I have also seen this be a problem before. I have a buddys car also that one side will come loose and make the car run really bad. and he can not get the car to go over 35.
this might sound strang , but i had my whole coil tray switched from side to side ( pass. side was on the driver side and vise versa) and the car would not run, just pop.
so try swapping the whole coil tray from side to side and see if that works.
did you take the coils off the tray by and chance?
so try swapping the whole coil tray from side to side and see if that works.
did you take the coils off the tray by and chance?
Swaping coils didn't do anything. I got a new crank sensor but havn't installed it yet. I wish I had a way to rule out the pcm 100% because speed inc told me it seemed alright when they plugged it in and checked the tune but couldn't tell if it was 100% working. Anyway, I got frustrated trying to figure it out so I went to work on my bracket. I have it ready for a 73mm belt now. The belts in the mail and hopefully I get it by friday. I'll post pics once that's done to show the final cog set-up. I just wish it would start. I don't even know where to look anymore so I guess I better try the crank sensor since that's still not ruled out.
Anyone know what sensors will cause a poping/no start condition? Would I still get spark with a bad crank sensor? How can I check to make sure my injectors are working? Maybe the pop here and there is from like the one guy said, just enough fuel is pushing through from the good fuel pressure to cause a pop once in a while but the injectors are not actually pulsing?
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It will be easier to understand with a vid but just to give you an idea. It doesn't sound very good, like not even close to starting. It turns the engine over with out much sound at all usually the first time. Then if I try again it will do the same thing but then make a couple loud pops.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,608
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
cool, that might help diagnose it a little better...
what about "stupid" stuff? like:
-spark plug wires on tight
-spark plugs not fouled
-injectors harness clips on all the way
-fuel is good
-all grounds in place
-cam gear/crank gear lined up dot-to-dot
-timing chain tight
-valves open/close properly, no collapsed lifters or bent pushrods
-no vacuum leaks; brake booster, MAP sensor, TB flange, intake connections, etc...
i know you've gone over and over the motor, but it never hurts to do it 2 or 3 more times, maybe you missed something. no matter hom much you look, it can always be something small.
...i mentioned spark plugs above, have you pulled a couple (not just one) to see what they look like?
what about "stupid" stuff? like:
-spark plug wires on tight
-spark plugs not fouled
-injectors harness clips on all the way
-fuel is good
-all grounds in place
-cam gear/crank gear lined up dot-to-dot
-timing chain tight
-valves open/close properly, no collapsed lifters or bent pushrods
-no vacuum leaks; brake booster, MAP sensor, TB flange, intake connections, etc...
i know you've gone over and over the motor, but it never hurts to do it 2 or 3 more times, maybe you missed something. no matter hom much you look, it can always be something small.
...i mentioned spark plugs above, have you pulled a couple (not just one) to see what they look like?
Are you ft o2 sensores hooked up and pluged in .
I finished a head swap on GTO today at work outside and went to drive it in to get it on the lift to reconect the exhaust and forgot I had the o2 disconnected . It just popped like you described . Might be that not really sure where your at
I finished a head swap on GTO today at work outside and went to drive it in to get it on the lift to reconect the exhaust and forgot I had the o2 disconnected . It just popped like you described . Might be that not really sure where your at
Alright, I'm going to try to put a list together of what it might be and if any of these things would make the car act like I described I can check them each out. I just don't want to go on a crazy replacement parts spree if they wouldn't make the car act this way. Here we go. Everything is plugged in but all sensors are from engine that blew up massively so I'm not 100% they are working.
1. all sensors except cam sensor are reused from old engine.
(what sensors will the car not even start up with?)
main one I'm conserned with is crankshaft sensor
2. injectors are from old engine (getting pressure at the rails)
3. new tr10 spark plugs (getting some spark but not sure how much)
4. new push rods but stock length (could wrong length cause this?)
5. anything else that would cause the car to not start at all (only a couple pops) but
still have spark and the engine turning over.
1. all sensors except cam sensor are reused from old engine.
(what sensors will the car not even start up with?)
main one I'm conserned with is crankshaft sensor
2. injectors are from old engine (getting pressure at the rails)
3. new tr10 spark plugs (getting some spark but not sure how much)
4. new push rods but stock length (could wrong length cause this?)
5. anything else that would cause the car to not start at all (only a couple pops) but
still have spark and the engine turning over.
This one is the only thing out of your list that it could be. I'm not 100% on my push rod length. They are 7.4 but I did clay the piston so I'm sure they are opening. Could it be possible if they are too long my valves could just be staying open? I would think that would cause it to fire a lot more though. Errr, I'm probably wasting a ton of time looking at things that don't even fit my symtoms
I bet it's something easy I'm just overlooking.
I bet it's something easy I'm just overlooking. Are you ft o2 sensores hooked up and pluged in .
I finished a head swap on GTO today at work outside and went to drive it in to get it on the lift to reconect the exhaust and forgot I had the o2 disconnected . It just popped like you described . Might be that not really sure where your at
I finished a head swap on GTO today at work outside and went to drive it in to get it on the lift to reconect the exhaust and forgot I had the o2 disconnected . It just popped like you described . Might be that not really sure where your at
One other thing before I go to bed. Is there anything in an a4 under the center console that needs to be hooked up to start other than the nuetral safty switch? I switched to a th400 and ditched everything under the center console. There was a few things I didn't know what they where. Now there is a couple plugs under there that are not hooked up.
They are connected but could be dead. It start if they are plugged in and bad though right? What about the map, if I didn't have it plugged in would it not start? That's the only sensor I'm thinking could possibly not be hooked up right. My map is for 3-bar sd and it looks identical to my boost sensor and has the same hook-up. If I swapped those two, would it not start at all?
Did you just switch to a speed density OS? If you did you need to look at your VE table, it may be full of garbage. Changing the OS with HPT will (or used to) will ruin the VE, you'll have to copy and paste from the old file into the new one. This WILL cause the car to not fire.
Did you just switch to a speed density OS? If you did you need to look at your VE table, it may be full of garbage. Changing the OS with HPT will (or used to) will ruin the VE, you'll have to copy and paste from the old file into the new one. This WILL cause the car to not fire.