LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
I could try that but it just doesn't seem like that would make the car act this way. It's not like it's trying to start but it just doesn't want to stay running. It's not even close to starting.
double check the connection at the map sensor to see if it is hooked up right and that all connections are tight. I had my sensor wrong and it did not want to start, just popped and did nothing.
Man I hope that's it. Good to know it won't start without the map sensor because there is a very good chance it's switched with my boost sensor because they look exactly the same. I'll try that next.
Ok, I scanned it and I'm getting a p0107. It's low map sensor signal. That's the only code! I'm going to do a little research on it but I swapped the map back and forth between the two sensors, both look the same, one's for my boost gauge and ones for the map. It did the same thing both ways. I'm going to go take a video now so you guys can hear it.
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Verdad Gallardo I got the vid. I hope some one has a good idea because I'm running out of things to try. Couple more pieces of info, it is getting fuel to the plugs because I took one out after trying to start it and it was soaked and smelled strongly of fuel. Also, the plug looked brand new, clean as can be. If you watch the vid you can tell it barely does anything and then when I open the throttle a little it back fires at the end. Here is the vid.
I am still going with the PCM. And I would also switch out to a hotter plug that helped me get my D1 started once
Let me know I can send you my PCM to see if that will at least start and then you can send it back to me
Let me know I can send you my PCM to see if that will at least start and then you can send it back to me
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 0
From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
ok, that sounds like it's either getting NO fuel, or too much fuel. it COULD still be due to the MAP sensor not being right (and probably is), but IMHO, it sounds like when you first tried to star it, nothing happened, but then there at the end it was like it was flooded but pumped enough fuel out to fire what was left in the cylinder...make any sense? that or there isn't being enough fuel delivered and takes a few revolutions to build up enough to fire...
i dunno man, it sounds to me like (from that video) there is either:
-too much fuel
-not enough fuel (injector issues)
-too much/not enough timing
-some electrical issue; MAP sensor, crank sensor <--most likely
a buddy of mine had a crank sensor go bad in his S10, it did the same thing, more or less, what your car is doing. but then again, if it isn't throwing a code, it probably isn't that...
i dunno man, it sounds to me like (from that video) there is either:
-too much fuel
-not enough fuel (injector issues)
-too much/not enough timing
-some electrical issue; MAP sensor, crank sensor <--most likely
a buddy of mine had a crank sensor go bad in his S10, it did the same thing, more or less, what your car is doing. but then again, if it isn't throwing a code, it probably isn't that...
Slap some NGK 4177s in (TR6) just to see if it fires. Is it flooded? Floor the throttle and crank if for a botu 5-10 seconds. This will kill the fuel but keep foring the injectors. If it starts to sputter more then ease on the throttle. Just another test.
Didyou swap the crank sensor? It could be the cam sensor too.
Didyou swap the crank sensor? It could be the cam sensor too.
I got the vid. I hope some one has a good idea because I'm running out of things to try. Couple more pieces of info, it is getting fuel to the plugs because I took one out after trying to start it and it was soaked and smelled strongly of fuel. Also, the plug looked brand new, clean as can be. If you watch the vid you can tell it barely does anything and then when I open the throttle a little it back fires at the end. Here is the vid.
If the plugs are soked you need to pull them all and cleand them ,just wipe them with a rag. You may have just flooded it when you had the connectors backwards .
why isnt the blower spinning in the vidio . Should it be ,I am not sure ,but I would think if it was attached to the crank it would spin
First let me say thanks for everyone trying to help, this is all new to me so it is really hard for me to trouble shoot, I was really thinking it was just going to start right up, a little over confident I guess.
That might still be an issue but wouldn't something more come up on the scan than a p0107? I would love to try another computer just to check but I think it would need to be tuned for the SD and 60lb injectors at the least? Thanks for the offer but I think to try another computer I'm going to have to buy one and have my tune loaded into it or find someone with close to the same set-up which is pretty unlikely.
I think I may need to get my injectors checked but I would like to try as many other things it could be first. I have the new crank sensor but $90 is a big waste if that's not it and I would think that would show up on the scan, wouldn't it?
It could be flooded. I smelled a lot of fuel after cranking it and the spark plug I pulled was wet with fuel.
The cam sensor is new and the crank I just didn't change yet because I thought it would show in the scan. I might try a new map sensor since that's the code I'm getting.
I'm going to pull all the plugs tomorrow and see what all of them look like anyway so I'll clean them then. I might even put in a hotter plug just to get it going and then try the tr10s.
The blower is not spinning because I have not put the belt on yet, trying to work the problem out first.
ok, that sounds like it's either getting NO fuel, or too much fuel. it COULD still be due to the MAP sensor not being right (and probably is), but IMHO, it sounds like when you first tried to star it, nothing happened, but then there at the end it was like it was flooded but pumped enough fuel out to fire what was left in the cylinder...make any sense? that or there isn't being enough fuel delivered and takes a few revolutions to build up enough to fire...
i dunno man, it sounds to me like (from that video) there is either:
-too much fuel
-not enough fuel (injector issues)
-too much/not enough timing
-some electrical issue; MAP sensor, crank sensor <--most likely
a buddy of mine had a crank sensor go bad in his S10, it did the same thing, more or less, what your car is doing. but then again, if it isn't throwing a code, it probably isn't that...
i dunno man, it sounds to me like (from that video) there is either:
-too much fuel
-not enough fuel (injector issues)
-too much/not enough timing
-some electrical issue; MAP sensor, crank sensor <--most likely
a buddy of mine had a crank sensor go bad in his S10, it did the same thing, more or less, what your car is doing. but then again, if it isn't throwing a code, it probably isn't that...
Slap some NGK 4177s in (TR6) just to see if it fires. Is it flooded? Floor the throttle and crank if for a botu 5-10 seconds. This will kill the fuel but keep foring the injectors. If it starts to sputter more then ease on the throttle. Just another test.
Didyou swap the crank sensor? It could be the cam sensor too.
Didyou swap the crank sensor? It could be the cam sensor too.
The cam sensor is new and the crank I just didn't change yet because I thought it would show in the scan. I might try a new map sensor since that's the code I'm getting.
If the plugs are soked you need to pull them all and cleand them ,just wipe them with a rag. You may have just flooded it when you had the connectors backwards .
why isnt the blower spinning in the vidio . Should it be ,I am not sure ,but I would think if it was attached to the crank it would spin
why isnt the blower spinning in the vidio . Should it be ,I am not sure ,but I would think if it was attached to the crank it would spin
The blower is not spinning because I have not put the belt on yet, trying to work the problem out first.
I've been watching for a while... Sorry its not running for you yet, that really sucks.
Anyway, I'm assuming that since your on an SD tune that you had to swap MAP sensors. Did you put in a 3bar? I only ask that because I know a 3bar takes a different connector (red) and that would mean you had to transfer wires from one connector to the next... Are you absolutely sure you put the wires in the correct places on the connector?
I think I have a 3bar MAP pinout if you need it, just pm me...
But IMHO, it sounds like your spark events are off. Actually, it sounds just like a carb'd car w/ old school dizzy installed 180* off. You can hear on each attempt at starting that it tries to fire, then on the last one there is enough residual fuel in the cylinders for the off timing spark to cause a backfire.
Not sure how the LS stuff works hardware wise, but you not getting spark at the correct time. I would almost bet my car on it. Try the crank sensor, if it doesn't work, clean it real good and return it. If that doesnt do the trick, could something be installed backward with the coil packs?
Thats my opinion based on what I've seen with all the old school stuff I've done. I've seen people install opti's wrong and get similar results to what your getting. On LT1's the optispark provides the pcm with cam and crank signals, so if its off its f*cked.
Anyway, I'm assuming that since your on an SD tune that you had to swap MAP sensors. Did you put in a 3bar? I only ask that because I know a 3bar takes a different connector (red) and that would mean you had to transfer wires from one connector to the next... Are you absolutely sure you put the wires in the correct places on the connector?
I think I have a 3bar MAP pinout if you need it, just pm me...
But IMHO, it sounds like your spark events are off. Actually, it sounds just like a carb'd car w/ old school dizzy installed 180* off. You can hear on each attempt at starting that it tries to fire, then on the last one there is enough residual fuel in the cylinders for the off timing spark to cause a backfire.
Not sure how the LS stuff works hardware wise, but you not getting spark at the correct time. I would almost bet my car on it. Try the crank sensor, if it doesn't work, clean it real good and return it. If that doesnt do the trick, could something be installed backward with the coil packs?
Thats my opinion based on what I've seen with all the old school stuff I've done. I've seen people install opti's wrong and get similar results to what your getting. On LT1's the optispark provides the pcm with cam and crank signals, so if its off its f*cked.
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
I've been watching for a while... Sorry its not running for you yet, that really sucks.
Anyway, I'm assuming that since your on an SD tune that you had to swap MAP sensors. Did you put in a 3bar? I only ask that because I know a 3bar takes a different connector (red) and that would mean you had to transfer wires from one connector to the next... Are you absolutely sure you put the wires in the correct places on the connector?
I think I have a 3bar MAP pinout if you need it, just pm me...
But IMHO, it sounds like your spark events are off. Actually, it sounds just like a carb'd car w/ old school dizzy installed 180* off. You can hear on each attempt at starting that it tries to fire, then on the last one there is enough residual fuel in the cylinders for the off timing spark to cause a backfire.
Not sure how the LS stuff works hardware wise, but you not getting spark at the correct time. I would almost bet my car on it. Try the crank sensor, if it doesn't work, clean it real good and return it. If that doesnt do the trick, could something be installed backward with the coil packs?
Thats my opinion based on what I've seen with all the old school stuff I've done. I've seen people install opti's wrong and get similar results to what your getting. On LT1's the optispark provides the pcm with cam and crank signals, so if its off its f*cked.
Anyway, I'm assuming that since your on an SD tune that you had to swap MAP sensors. Did you put in a 3bar? I only ask that because I know a 3bar takes a different connector (red) and that would mean you had to transfer wires from one connector to the next... Are you absolutely sure you put the wires in the correct places on the connector?
I think I have a 3bar MAP pinout if you need it, just pm me...
But IMHO, it sounds like your spark events are off. Actually, it sounds just like a carb'd car w/ old school dizzy installed 180* off. You can hear on each attempt at starting that it tries to fire, then on the last one there is enough residual fuel in the cylinders for the off timing spark to cause a backfire.
Not sure how the LS stuff works hardware wise, but you not getting spark at the correct time. I would almost bet my car on it. Try the crank sensor, if it doesn't work, clean it real good and return it. If that doesnt do the trick, could something be installed backward with the coil packs?
Thats my opinion based on what I've seen with all the old school stuff I've done. I've seen people install opti's wrong and get similar results to what your getting. On LT1's the optispark provides the pcm with cam and crank signals, so if its off its f*cked.
I know it might sound stupid but do you know your pushrods are the correct length? If they are to long and holding the valves open even a little it will pop like that. Just some food for thought.
