Pretty much. Just zero it out on the deck first.

 

hey man i just read this whole thread..all 40 pages

and just wanted to give you some moral support..keep at it and just think of how all this trouble will be worth it once you hear that melody that those 8 cylinders play and also great build, your inspiring me to save up and do my own work

 

Thanks man.

I'm pretty down in the dumps with too many issues for my head to handle. Little by little I'll make a turn around and start reinstalling instead of taking steps backwards. This weekend should answer some questions once I get to put a few hours out in the garage.

 

well just think what you can tell people..i pretty much built that set-up all by myself ..its nasty..i'd be happy to show people that in its current state stay up.

 

Does anyone KNOW if I can just retard the timing with my adj. timing chain to help with clearance? Heres the specs again if you don't know: 246/250 .632/.635 on a 112+4

I was thinking after I fly cut the pistons a little, I can just adjust the timing -2 to give me a little extra clearance or is that now it works?

I'm still now 100% on what advance and retard really do. The cam had 112+4 but I really just wanted 112lsa. I thought maybe the the +4 would make it a little better for FI but now that I've done a little more research, it doesn't seem like that +4 acts how I thought it did. I just thought that meant it would make it act more like a 116lsa but that's not what it does at all is it?

 

you have alot of lift there, to be honest I am not really sure why you put a cam that big in an FI motor that didn't have the head flow to support that kind of lift.

You'd be better off putting a cam in the car with 600 or less lift, save a ton of wear and tear on the valvetrain and probably solve all of your valve clearance issues.

I'd still ditch those goofy heads, and the pistons needto come out and have the valve clearances cut in them the right way.

You're trying ot build 1200 hp (or you wouldn't have put an F2 blower on the car) you can not just 1/2 *** **** at that power level.

 

I put that cam in there because it doesn't seem like anyone knows what cam is good for what, everyone just has opinions and until the a cam is tried, no one really knows. Once I find out how it does then I can be happy or disapointed and then change it out and try another. Putting a cam in is just a guess, yeah some work better than others but from all the research I've done on here, everyones opinion is different and not once is anyone right 100% of the time. I want my set-up to be different. Set-up how I want it, not how everyone else would do it. If I wanted the same set-up as everyone else I could have just bought an already built turbo car and saved a **** load of money. It's not like big cams and fi don't work good together, most people just think that but have no proof and just figure it's not needed. True it's not needed but you can make 600rwhp with and average cam or 680rwhp with a large cam like I did. Everytime I see it, everyone says don't use a big cam with FI, then someone does and it makes more power than it would have with the small cam everyone recommends. Every person I've heard of going larger on the cam than "recommended" ends up making more power. I don't understand why it hasn't caught on yet, the more power you make N/A, the more your going to make with boost. Maybe turbos are more complicated then that because of lag and whatever but with blowers I'll stand behind that statement 100%

 

Just read your whole thread, very inspiring and I hope it wont be to hard solving the problems you have!

GL!

 

I am by no means an expert on FI but all FI is not considered equal. A supercharger has no exhaust restriction so an aggressive NA cam should be even more aggresive behind a blower IMO. Turbo is a different animal as increased overlap does not like exhaust restrictions which is how the turbo makes it's power.

 

I'm glad someone agrees with me on a big cam working well with a blower.

I don't want to turn this thread into a cam debate so please no more comments on if it's the right cam for boost or not, I chose it for my own reasons and it's not the end of the world if it isn't perfect for my set-up, I can change it later.

What I do need is some help getting the set-up I have working properly. Can anyone answer my question from up a few posts? Can retarding the cam -2 with my adj timing chain help with ptv clearance?

 

don't know about the question you asked , but i was thinking you need a bigger cam

keep you chin up ! its just a matter of time and you'll be permanently imprinting a smile on your face

 

At this point I think picking up the phone and calling someone that does this **** for a living and get their opinion on it. As far as the cam goes, not debating but the bigger is better, or smaller is better theory is not how you choose a cam anyway.

Moving on, besides the current issue you have, I asked this question once already, have you checked the rest of your valvetrain clearances like valve spring height, coil bind, open and close pressures? This is **** that has to be done on an engine like this. Looking at your lift, I bet you have coil bind clearance issues already depending on what the install height is and spring you chose. It took me alot of time researching to find a spring for my stup to get all the sping pressures right without coil bind and I ended up with a spring good for .700 lift for my little .612 cam.

Not busting your *****, I commend you on what your doing, but I hate to see you hurt the motor by overlooking the details.

BTW, retarding or advancing the cam will move the powerband up or down a bit, I doubt it's going to buy you .080" of extra clearance, IMO.

 

there is nothing wrong with your cam. i have two turbo cars and your cam spec is very close to one of my turbo cars except i have alittle more lift than u.

 

I understand you guys are trying to help me, I'm just frustrated and people telling my to do things that I can't do because I'm out of funds makes it worse. I need to go about finishing this the cheapest way possible. That's great that it's not the best way but unfortunatly I'm not wealthy. It's like nobody believes this is a budgit build because I used some expensive parts. I only used parts I found deals on and still ran out of funds for this build. I wasn't trying to make the fastest f-body ever. I just wanted to make a faster car then what I had before and make it strong. Now I run into clearance issues and it's like my whole build is now ****.
My valve train is excellent. I have dual springs that are good for .7 lift and have the highest seat pressure out of all the ones I've researched because I was worried about the valves floating with the high boost. The set came with everything to be installed with them. They are made for a huge cam so they should be giving me the advertised specs and have the right height, no coil bind and good open and closed presures. No I didn't check them because I don't have the tools or know how to do so. I tried to put together the parts needed to make the project work as a whole. The only thing I messed up on is not getting the right length pushrods but they were close enough the car should have ran. The only thing that I have proven to be giving me problems are these fucked up used 317 heads. They where not part of my original plan but I had to try something because I don't have $3000 for heads right now and won't for a while. The 317 should have worked fine for getting it running but I got screwed by some *** hole that sold me fucked up heads. Maybe they are even milled and that's why the ptv issue. I don't understand the ptv problem but I did clay one piston before I installed the heads, it just so happens it was the one that barely got touched. It had clearance when turning it over by hand so I really don't understand how they hit now. It doesn't matter anyway, they did so now I have to do what I have to do to make things work. I have to figure out why some pistons got hit more than others too, maybe the mill on the heads was off too. If they were milled that would be why the pushrods are too long also. Really the heads could solve all my problems if I run into a little good luck instead of bad.

 

Pay for shipping and I will send the stock heads and then pay me the rest when you get it.

 

To answer your question, yes retarding the cam will help PTV clearance.
Just read a little more of the posts.
First, you need to be checking the PTV properly. An adjustable pushrod and checker springs are cheap. Very cheap when considering you may need to pull it apart again. You're talking less than 50 dollars. Without them, checking PTV, you can collapse the lifter, skewing the results.

 

You found my thread. I pmed you but I'm only wanting to try this again with a set that are in really good condition, you can see the problems I've had so far with a bad set.

 

Cool, thanks.

I did purchase a pushrod checker. It read 7.275, "zero lash" I think it's called. So if I wanted to preload the lifters .075 I would need the 7.35 pushrods instead of the 7.4 I had in it. I'm not going to do anything with the pushrods right now though until I have a new set of heads to put on so I can recheck with them installed to know I'm putting in the right ones this time.

 

do you have a straight edge to chech the heads for warpage?
also not really sure but dont the back lifters get oil before the front lifters?

If so the back lifters may have been pumped up more causing the bigger dings in the back cylinders vs the front lifters not fulley pumped up in the front cylinders. not sure just doing some thinking

 

That's not a bad thought because I can't figure out why that would happen. I checked the block and it's good, all pistons are coming up the same amount, just a touch under even with the deck, all pistons even. That would make sence why when I clayed the pistons, it looked like I had enough clearance because the lifters were not pumped up.
I tried to check if the heads are warped and it really doesn't look like they are. It looks like I might just need shorter pushrods and heads that don't leak compression out the valves.

How do I pump up the lifters to make sure I'm getting the right pushrod length? How much do they change when pumped up?