LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
I've mentioned this before about the lifters... You've gotta make sure that there is no downward pressure on the pushrod. Then turn the motor over untill you see oil coming out of the pushrods. At this point you set you pushrod tool in place and check the length.
If you do not repeat all the above steps for each pushrod, your likely to have some lifter bleed down.
If you do not repeat all the above steps for each pushrod, your likely to have some lifter bleed down.
I understand you guys are trying to help me, I'm just frustrated and people telling my to do things that I can't do because I'm out of funds makes it worse. I need to go about finishing this the cheapest way possible. That's great that it's not the best way but unfortunatly I'm not wealthy. It's like nobody believes this is a budgit build because I used some expensive parts. I only used parts I found deals on and still ran out of funds for this build. I wasn't trying to make the fastest f-body ever. I just wanted to make a faster car then what I had before and make it strong. Now I run into clearance issues and it's like my whole build is now ****.
My valve train is excellent. I have dual springs that are good for .7 lift and have the highest seat pressure out of all the ones I've researched because I was worried about the valves floating with the high boost. The set came with everything to be installed with them. They are made for a huge cam so they should be giving me the advertised specs and have the right height, no coil bind and good open and closed presures. No I didn't check them because I don't have the tools or know how to do so. I tried to put together the parts needed to make the project work as a whole. The only thing I messed up on is not getting the right length pushrods but they were close enough the car should have ran. The only thing that I have proven to be giving me problems are these fucked up used 317 heads. They where not part of my original plan but I had to try something because I don't have $3000 for heads right now and won't for a while. The 317 should have worked fine for getting it running but I got screwed by some *** hole that sold me fucked up heads. Maybe they are even milled and that's why the ptv issue. I don't understand the ptv problem but I did clay one piston before I installed the heads, it just so happens it was the one that barely got touched. It had clearance when turning it over by hand so I really don't understand how they hit now. It doesn't matter anyway, they did so now I have to do what I have to do to make things work. I have to figure out why some pistons got hit more than others too, maybe the mill on the heads was off too. If they were milled that would be why the pushrods are too long also. Really the heads could solve all my problems if I run into a little good luck instead of bad.
My valve train is excellent. I have dual springs that are good for .7 lift and have the highest seat pressure out of all the ones I've researched because I was worried about the valves floating with the high boost. The set came with everything to be installed with them. They are made for a huge cam so they should be giving me the advertised specs and have the right height, no coil bind and good open and closed presures. No I didn't check them because I don't have the tools or know how to do so. I tried to put together the parts needed to make the project work as a whole. The only thing I messed up on is not getting the right length pushrods but they were close enough the car should have ran. The only thing that I have proven to be giving me problems are these fucked up used 317 heads. They where not part of my original plan but I had to try something because I don't have $3000 for heads right now and won't for a while. The 317 should have worked fine for getting it running but I got screwed by some *** hole that sold me fucked up heads. Maybe they are even milled and that's why the ptv issue. I don't understand the ptv problem but I did clay one piston before I installed the heads, it just so happens it was the one that barely got touched. It had clearance when turning it over by hand so I really don't understand how they hit now. It doesn't matter anyway, they did so now I have to do what I have to do to make things work. I have to figure out why some pistons got hit more than others too, maybe the mill on the heads was off too. If they were milled that would be why the pushrods are too long also. Really the heads could solve all my problems if I run into a little good luck instead of bad.
Sorry bro, wasn't trying to get you down. Just trying to help out a little and would love to see you succeed. I did a similar build and I learned a ton hanging out at the engine builders. That cam really isn't all that big and with the pistons at zero deck height im a little surprised to see they are hitting. I look forward to hearing what you find out.
I've mentioned this before about the lifters... You've gotta make sure that there is no downward pressure on the pushrod. Then turn the motor over untill you see oil coming out of the pushrods. At this point you set you pushrod tool in place and check the length.
If you do not repeat all the above steps for each pushrod, your likely to have some lifter bleed down.
If you do not repeat all the above steps for each pushrod, your likely to have some lifter bleed down.
No, you will want to use the solid lifter when determining the PTV clearance. Then with the hydraulic lifters and heads/gaskets installed/torqued, then use you pushrod checker to find zero lash, be careful and take your time here, zero preload without compressing the plunger, then add length to get the preload you want. Then rotate it around and make sure the swipe on the valve stem will work ok with that pushrod length. Double, triple check what you come up with, then order your pushrods.
No, definately not. The starter would though. I suggest that you go buy a water resistant push button starter switch and install it in the engine bay somewhere that can be reached from either side of the car. Use some 10-12ga wire and the pushbutton to provide 12v to the starter solenoid. This way you will be able to turn the motor over at any time, without the key even near the car. No fuel or spark will be provided unless the ignition key is in the run position. This helps alot for many tasks that would otherwise require an extra person to turn the motor over via the key.
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Well, I came across a good trade to get some heads without costing me anything and I'm working on getting a new cam traded(much smaller FI cam). Also I will be picking up some new pushrods once the heads are on and I have a good measurment. Now I just have to figure out what to do with these pistons. I'll have no ptv issues with the new set-up but I'm worried about running it how they are. What is a hot spot and what causes it? Could I just smooth out the nicks on the pistons? Taking the engine out is not an option. I could get the fly-cutting tool but that seems like a lot of work since I know I will have plenty of clearance now. I'm trying to start putting it back together asap. What do you guys think my best option is? I'll try to get pics of all the pistons tonight to give you a better idea what I'm worried about.
Like Kurt Urban (427 on here) told you, just smooth the nicks out. The main thing is, you don't want any sharp edges or high spots. They will attract heat and glow red hot causing pre-ignition. Don't over think this, just smooth up the nicks and you will be ok, and obviously clean them real well after. You are on the right track with sliding a smaller cam in there and checking all your clearances.
Like Kurt Urban (427 on here) told you, just smooth the nicks out. The main thing is, you don't want any sharp edges or high spots. They will attract heat and glow red hot causing pre-ignition. Don't over think this, just smooth up the nicks and you will be ok, and obviously clean them real well after. You are on the right track with sliding a smaller cam in there and checking all your clearances.
I'll keep you guy's updated with my progress.
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: omaha ne
agreed just clean up the nics and have fun, we had a n/a ls1 here that the shop that blew up so we put a new short block in and sent the heads back to patroit and he wanted more power, so about 2 months went by and he came back, we rebuilt the engine with all good internals and put on a procharger, a little piece of metal must have got stuck in the intake (melted in the plastic and stayed there on the last build) and then with the blower made its way in to the engine after around 30 miles on the car and started to make a ticking sound, we pulled it all apart and there was a little piece of metal stuck to the top of the piston, pulled it out polished the top of the piston and the chamber of the head and have had no problems at all with it, it not the same power but its making 662whp on pump gas, with just a 383, tfs heads and 11psi of boost
Well I got it all torn down now. The cam was installed correctly so I guess the cam is just too aggressive for my set-up. I'm switching to a nice mild F/I cam. I may try something bigger after I try this one out. Maybe when I do better heads I'll get a cam to match or something.
I found something while taking it apart that I don't think is good. Please don't rip on me for this, I'm still learning. I didn't fill the oil pump with oil before I installed it. I thought about it after wards but I thought it would just suck the oil in. It's still bone dry. I would have thought it would have oil in it now from turning it over. Now I'm kind of glad I'm doing it again so I can take my time and do a little more research and make sure everything is right. Am I supposed to do something with the oiling system with a new engine? Was it just because my pump was dry that I wasn't getting any oil? I don't really understand how the oiling system works. I need to get a better understanding of it before I put everything back together because I want to be sure it's all good and I don't have to rip it down again because of no oil pressure.
I'm going to do a bunch of research on my own now but if anyone has some good info on the subject, please feel free to share.
I found something while taking it apart that I don't think is good. Please don't rip on me for this, I'm still learning. I didn't fill the oil pump with oil before I installed it. I thought about it after wards but I thought it would just suck the oil in. It's still bone dry. I would have thought it would have oil in it now from turning it over. Now I'm kind of glad I'm doing it again so I can take my time and do a little more research and make sure everything is right. Am I supposed to do something with the oiling system with a new engine? Was it just because my pump was dry that I wasn't getting any oil? I don't really understand how the oiling system works. I need to get a better understanding of it before I put everything back together because I want to be sure it's all good and I don't have to rip it down again because of no oil pressure.
I'm going to do a bunch of research on my own now but if anyone has some good info on the subject, please feel free to share.
I have never filled my oil pump, with oil before installing. there is something else wrong with the oiling system.... did you have an o ring in the oil pick up tube. There is something wrong though.