LSX is ready to be dropped in tomorrow (PICS!)
try removing the sparkplugs and cranking her over for a while , the starter won't have that much load on it so you can keep it engaged longer untill you get oil pressure.
man i wish you luck!
man i wish you luck!
How can the car need new heads? Did you have these on the old motor? Did that still run when you took them off?
Did you have them worked on by a machine shop at all? If so then I'd be pulling them and bringing them over there and tearing them a new one if you have all your **** strait and are 100% sure the heads are the problem.
Did you have them worked on by a machine shop at all? If so then I'd be pulling them and bringing them over there and tearing them a new one if you have all your **** strait and are 100% sure the heads are the problem.
How can the car need new heads? Did you have these on the old motor? Did that still run when you took them off?
Did you have them worked on by a machine shop at all? If so then I'd be pulling them and bringing them over there and tearing them a new one if you have all your **** strait and are 100% sure the heads are the problem.
Did you have them worked on by a machine shop at all? If so then I'd be pulling them and bringing them over there and tearing them a new one if you have all your **** strait and are 100% sure the heads are the problem.
hay man i dont think your heads would cause you to have no compression?? let me ask you a question, when you put the rings on did you line them straight up or did you stagger them?? if you lined them up they will not hold compression. im just thinking out side the box here
hay man i dont think your heads would cause you to have no compression?? let me ask you a question, when you put the rings on did you line them straight up or did you stagger them?? if you lined them up they will not hold compression. im just thinking out side the box here
I just want to thank everyone for their help figuring this out. Unfortunately it didn't turn out to be an easy or cheap fix. Basically my heads are fucked. I got the cylinders oiled and it did seem to make it a touch harder to turn it over building compression in only one cylinder but it only went up to 45. I can actually hear the compression hissing out into the heads/exhaust. What surprizes me the most is that it isn't just a couple valves, it's most likely all of them but I don't even know if it's worth testing all cylinders. 2 on one side, both in the 30s and then to check the other head I tried one and it was like 10 and I could just hear the air pouring out. Don't forget this is without rockers on so it's not the pushrods holding the valves open they just aren't sealing.
So now I have to pull the heads which means completly uninstalling my bracket set-up that I finnaly finished, the motor plate on that side included and everything else that has to come off with the heads. The worst of it is I have no money left for heads so looks like I'm done for a while. I'd like to say I'll have them by winter but that's not very realistic. So in other words, this project is on hold till next year
. That is unless anyone wants to donate some good working heads
Thanks again everybody.
So now I have to pull the heads which means completly uninstalling my bracket set-up that I finnaly finished, the motor plate on that side included and everything else that has to come off with the heads. The worst of it is I have no money left for heads so looks like I'm done for a while. I'd like to say I'll have them by winter but that's not very realistic. So in other words, this project is on hold till next year
. That is unless anyone wants to donate some good working headsThanks again everybody.
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tear everything apart and see if you can pick up some 6.0L heads from a junk yard...take them apart, clean the valves and seats good and put them back in the same holes they came out of... sounds like it could be bent valves on the heads? or for some reason there is some debris in the seats that is not allowing the valves to seat properly.
i dont really know a great way to see if you have bent valves or not, but take the heads off and look at the valves and see if you can visually see them not sitting strait. actually, get the heads off and the springs as well, set the heads upside down on the work bench and spin the valves in the head... you can see if they are a little bent that way.
if they seem strait, then you can take them apart and make sure there is no debris in the ports, and make sure they are clean. then go to a shop that sells engine building stuff and look to get a valve lapping kit... shouldnt be too expensive, like $30 or so. doing that u will spin the valves around and see if they have an area that is not sealing, or the valves have a good contact patch. do that to the heads to in fact see where the problem is in there.
from that you should be able to see where your problem is. or you can start from scratch and get a set of heads from the junk yard off a truck or something to get running and do that same process to the heads you picked up... just make sure to clean them well before doing the valve check and lapping.
i dont really know a great way to see if you have bent valves or not, but take the heads off and look at the valves and see if you can visually see them not sitting strait. actually, get the heads off and the springs as well, set the heads upside down on the work bench and spin the valves in the head... you can see if they are a little bent that way.
if they seem strait, then you can take them apart and make sure there is no debris in the ports, and make sure they are clean. then go to a shop that sells engine building stuff and look to get a valve lapping kit... shouldnt be too expensive, like $30 or so. doing that u will spin the valves around and see if they have an area that is not sealing, or the valves have a good contact patch. do that to the heads to in fact see where the problem is in there.
from that you should be able to see where your problem is. or you can start from scratch and get a set of heads from the junk yard off a truck or something to get running and do that same process to the heads you picked up... just make sure to clean them well before doing the valve check and lapping.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 0
From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
take the heads to a local shop and see what they can figure out about them. they may only need new seats, or maybe milled down. if the heads can be fixed, do it. even if it means ending up with too much compression, you can still sell them in good condition and recoup some money to put towards new ones.
it's not over yet, you don't actually know what's wrong....
it's not over yet, you don't actually know what's wrong....
take the heads to a local shop and see what they can figure out about them. they may only need new seats, or maybe milled down. if the heads can be fixed, do it. even if it means ending up with too much compression, you can still sell them in good condition and recoup some money to put towards new ones.
it's not over yet, you don't actually know what's wrong....
it's not over yet, you don't actually know what's wrong....
One question though. Why not do a leak down test and see where it is leaking from? Take the valve and the gauge off of your compression tester hose and screw it in, then hook your air compressor up to where the gauge would hook on, and then listen for where the air is leaking from. you'll have to do each cylinder one at a time, also you'll need to make sure that the valves for the cylinder you are checking are closed. One way to do it is start with cylinder 1and8 put the engine on TDC and test both those. once finished with those turn the crank 45* and test 4and3. so on and so forth. This is a time consuming process but you can see EXACTLY where it is coming from. Next. Your timing chain is a very likely option. It could be off making the valves open at the wrong time and also causing it to be fairly consistent on the low compression in each cylinder....
Sorry if you've covered these points. I don't have time to read the whole thread. Just the page were on. lol. Good luck Man!
Next. Your timing chain is a very likely option. It could be off making the valves open at the wrong time and also causing it to be fairly consistent on the low compression in each cylinder....
It is either bent valves or some major debris in there keeping them from sealing. Either way, it may not be the end of the world. What heads are they? Pull the heads and it should be pretty easy to see what is holding the valves open. If the guides and seats are ok, then it should be pretty easy to have new valves put in.
it ain't over yet, what ever the problem is it can be fixed. can't beleive you are quitting when you are so far ahead!
take the heads off, check them at a shop - it can't be that serious- if you couldn't catch it with your eyes when you go tthe heads , then its not a major issue and can be remedied .
and don't complain about removing everything! with this hobby you'll be doing that alot think of it as practice 
take the heads off, check them at a shop - it can't be that serious- if you couldn't catch it with your eyes when you go tthe heads , then its not a major issue and can be remedied .
and don't complain about removing everything! with this hobby you'll be doing that alot
think of it as practice 
Not when the pushrods are removed. That takes the timing chain right out of the equation.
It is either bent valves or some major debris in there keeping them from sealing. Either way, it may not be the end of the world. What heads are they? Pull the heads and it should be pretty easy to see what is holding the valves open. If the guides and seats are ok, then it should be pretty easy to have new valves put in.
It is either bent valves or some major debris in there keeping them from sealing. Either way, it may not be the end of the world. What heads are they? Pull the heads and it should be pretty easy to see what is holding the valves open. If the guides and seats are ok, then it should be pretty easy to have new valves put in.
One of those minor details I missed. Definitely check for debris. I still say do a leak down test. I know that I thought I had some major problems with my turbo'd first gen neon recently when I had 60psi of compression in cylinder 1. I ended up taking the head off before doing the leak down test and couldn't see anything wrong with the piston or head. I bolted the head back on to do the leak down and found it was leaking out the exhaust valve. Pulled the head back off and also removed the exhaust valves and found some intake gasket material stuck in between. refaced those valves slapped her back together and did a vacuum test and it was perfect. But seeings had I started the car after I blew the trans it would have burned that stuff out... I am kinda doubting at this point that it's just debris stuck in there but it is a possibility I guess....
One of those minor details I missed. Definitely check for debris. I still say do a leak down test. I know that I thought I had some major problems with my turbo'd first gen neon recently when I had 60psi of compression in cylinder 1. I ended up taking the head off before doing the leak down test and couldn't see anything wrong with the piston or head. I bolted the head back on to do the leak down and found it was leaking out the exhaust valve. Pulled the head back off and also removed the exhaust valves and found some intake gasket material stuck in between. refaced those valves slapped her back together and did a vacuum test and it was perfect. But seeings had I started the car after I blew the trans it would have burned that stuff out... I am kinda doubting at this point that it's just debris stuck in there but it is a possibility I guess....
I tried doing a leak down but unfortunatly the compression checker I got has a check valve or something in the hose were it will only let the air flow one way. I thought I was getting compression when I hooked it up with 80 lbs of pressure and didn't hear any leaking. So I took it out of the head and then no air came out lol. I looked in the tube and there is a little thing like in a tires valve stem, if you push it then the air blows out. Anyway, it has to be leaking through the valves, where else could it be hissing out from? No matter where it's leaking, the heads have to come off so that's what I'm doing next. If I can get away with fixing them without spending much then I might still get the car finished, I'm just a little frustrated right now.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,608
Likes: 0
From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
don't sweat it man, my motor has been waiting on parts and sitting, waiting on machines to free up since the first of July. i don't expect it to be done for at least another week still...at least you have something break and wrench on 
Last edited by slow67; Sep 14, 2008 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Adding pictur