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I have been following this for a while now. I haven't read all of the posts recently but if I am right you can't get the car to turn over and it just clicks?
A full battery should have around 14.5 volts. With a meter make sure you have that the starter. When you turn it over are you getting 12 volts to the small wire that goes to the starter?
My brothers truck did the exact same thing last week. It sounded like a bad starter which I replaced. Well I should have did some more checking because it was the positive battery cable. Everything worked like it was suppose to it just couldn't pull enough to actually engage the starter.
Hope this helps and I am sorry if I repeated something someone has already said.
A full battery should have around 14.5 volts. With a meter make sure you have that the starter. When you turn it over are you getting 12 volts to the small wire that goes to the starter?
My brothers truck did the exact same thing last week. It sounded like a bad starter which I replaced. Well I should have did some more checking because it was the positive battery cable. Everything worked like it was suppose to it just couldn't pull enough to actually engage the starter.
Hope this helps and I am sorry if I repeated something someone has already said.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 29
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If your starter is jamming against the flywheel, fix that first.
The battery sounds like it's at least partially discharged.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead-acid_battery
# Open-circuit (quiescent) at full charge: 12.6 V to 12.8 V (2.10-2.13V per cell)
# Open-circuit at full discharge: 11.8 V to 12.0 V
# Loaded at full discharge: 10.5 V.
The battery sounds like it's at least partially discharged.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead-acid_battery
# Open-circuit (quiescent) at full charge: 12.6 V to 12.8 V (2.10-2.13V per cell)
# Open-circuit at full discharge: 11.8 V to 12.0 V
# Loaded at full discharge: 10.5 V.
It should be around 14.0-14.5V with a good battery, and the car running with the charging system operational.
No battery is going to be over 13.0V
It should read around 12.5V with the multimeter at rest. If it's dropping down to 11.X with JUST the key in the KOEO position, the battery needs a trickle charge for sure.
Just for kicks, any battery that has sat for a year+, is suspect for replacement.
Trickle charge the battery. Then you can just go to autozone if you have one local, and they will load test the battery free of charge. Just make sure you get an employee that knows what the hell he's doing. Becuase as we all know, half of them are about as smart as a brick.
That eliminates all your guess work. If it's junk, buy a new one and then you KNOW your all set on that front.
If this ends up not fixing your problem, you need to look to the starter.
No battery is going to be over 13.0V
It should read around 12.5V with the multimeter at rest. If it's dropping down to 11.X with JUST the key in the KOEO position, the battery needs a trickle charge for sure.
Just for kicks, any battery that has sat for a year+, is suspect for replacement.
Trickle charge the battery. Then you can just go to autozone if you have one local, and they will load test the battery free of charge. Just make sure you get an employee that knows what the hell he's doing. Becuase as we all know, half of them are about as smart as a brick.
That eliminates all your guess work. If it's junk, buy a new one and then you KNOW your all set on that front.
If this ends up not fixing your problem, you need to look to the starter.
It should be around 14.0-14.5V with a good battery, and the car running with the charging system operational.
No battery is going to be over 13.0V
It should read around 12.5V with the multimeter at rest. If it's dropping down to 11.X with JUST the key in the KOEO position, the battery needs a trickle charge for sure.
Just for kicks, any battery that has sat for a year+, is suspect for replacement.
Trickle charge the battery. Then you can just go to autozone if you have one local, and they will load test the battery free of charge. Just make sure you get an employee that knows what the hell he's doing. Becuase as we all know, half of them are about as smart as a brick.
That eliminates all your guess work. If it's junk, buy a new one and then you KNOW your all set on that front.
If this ends up not fixing your problem, you need to look to the starter.
No battery is going to be over 13.0V
It should read around 12.5V with the multimeter at rest. If it's dropping down to 11.X with JUST the key in the KOEO position, the battery needs a trickle charge for sure.
Just for kicks, any battery that has sat for a year+, is suspect for replacement.
Trickle charge the battery. Then you can just go to autozone if you have one local, and they will load test the battery free of charge. Just make sure you get an employee that knows what the hell he's doing. Becuase as we all know, half of them are about as smart as a brick.
That eliminates all your guess work. If it's junk, buy a new one and then you KNOW your all set on that front.
If this ends up not fixing your problem, you need to look to the starter.
I just stuck a MM on my optima and it read 12.2 volts. Running, I would expect 13.5-14.5 VDC
Battery wasn't the problem or at least the only problem. I put in a fresh battery and now it doesn't click, it just turns everything off but no cranking or clicking. I think I hooked up the starter or alternator wrong. I'm going to do some more research. The only things on the alternator are the big black cable that goes to the possitive and the one wire plug. Should there be a ground on the alt?
yes that what i was saying you have to have it grounded i think there is a little tit that sticks out on the back that a wire has to go to ill check mine tomarrow and see then post up for you man
There are a few grounds there is the one to the block form behind the alt to the driverside the one from behind the /ac compressor to the body ( the one missing on my friends car that caused a slow crank) and the ones on the back of the head on the drivers side to the harness .
I would just make sure you have a ground on each side of the block then check the one for the harness.
Also did you leave the meter on the bat as you were cranking it to se if the starter is just drawing to much current
I would just make sure you have a ground on each side of the block then check the one for the harness.
Also did you leave the meter on the bat as you were cranking it to se if the starter is just drawing to much current
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I'm pretty sure it's not a block ground after thinking about it, I have motor plates that are all metal to metal on both sides lol. I'm leaning towards the starter is not hooked up correctly. I'm going out there to mess around now. I have all day to figure this out so I'm really hoping I can get it working. If anyone thinks of anything random to check electrically when swapping an engine feel free to throw out ideas. Thanks guys.
****! I just almost burnt the car down! I was under the car checking to make sure I was getting power to the starter. Read 12.5 at the starter then I had my girl try to start it and it read .225 or something like that and was like what the ****, try again. She tried again and all of a sudden I hear sizzling so I yell stop jump out from under the car and all of sudden there is smoke everywhere so in a panic I throw water all over where the smoke was and then I thought ****, electrical fire, water conducter so all I can thing to do is rip the battery out. Then threw more water on it lol. Fire went out and now it's time to check the damage. Frome what I can tell from a quick look, I think I just fried the battery, melted terminals, and fried both hot and ground cables from the battery to the starter. I'm hoping I didn't mess up the whole harness but I didn't see anything else melted except those two cables. Probably fried the starter too.
What the hell are you doing ? It sounds like you grounded the positive side of the starter out....
Don't you know anyone with a stock car that can stop by that you can look at, just get under it and look and see hwo the **** is hooked up?
if you had that much smoke and actually melted the battery, you're gonna have a whole bunch of other problems, wires get that hot believe me there's alot of stuff that's now gonna e compromised... might not whoe up right away either which makes it even worse.
Good luck with this one.
Don't you know anyone with a stock car that can stop by that you can look at, just get under it and look and see hwo the **** is hooked up?
if you had that much smoke and actually melted the battery, you're gonna have a whole bunch of other problems, wires get that hot believe me there's alot of stuff that's now gonna e compromised... might not whoe up right away either which makes it even worse.
Good luck with this one.
What the hell are you doing ? It sounds like you grounded the positive side of the starter out....
Don't you know anyone with a stock car that can stop by that you can look at, just get under it and look and see hwo the **** is hooked up?
if you had that much smoke and actually melted the battery, you're gonna have a whole bunch of other problems, wires get that hot believe me there's alot of stuff that's now gonna e compromised... might not whoe up right away either which makes it even worse.
Good luck with this one.
Don't you know anyone with a stock car that can stop by that you can look at, just get under it and look and see hwo the **** is hooked up?
if you had that much smoke and actually melted the battery, you're gonna have a whole bunch of other problems, wires get that hot believe me there's alot of stuff that's now gonna e compromised... might not whoe up right away either which makes it even worse.
Good luck with this one.
Looks like I lucked out. Nothing else came in contact except one other wiring harness and it only burnt through the casing, I checked the wires and no burns went through to bare wire, just a few brown marks, thank god. Another second and they all would have been toast. I'm going to post pics but it looks like the only thing it could have been was reversed cables on the starter? They where both direct from the battery to the starter and both fried and melted together. I'm so happy nothing worse happened, this could have been a real mess but all I need is two new cables and most likely a starter, I still have my other battery. It could have been way worse. Plus maybe this will fix my starter problem too, lol. I'll have pics of the damage in a minute.
Rufretic, Me and you are so similar it is sicking. If you would like I can take some pics of a stock car, starter setup tonight if you would like. Did you relocate your battery or is it in the same place. I relocated a battery in one of my old cars and burnt it . I feel ya trust me!
Does it look like the terminals on the starter are reversed? I don't get how they could be, the hot has a tab that slides into a slot on the hot side, at least that's what I thought it was there for
