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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 09:20 AM
  #501  
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Originally Posted by 1dirtyZ
just remeber to start with the cheap simple stuff first; check all your fuses under hood and incar ) , pull a plug wire out and stuff a sparkplug in there and crank the car, see if you have spark or not .
put your finger on one of the injectors while cranking the engine and feel for a pulse. at least that will start narrowing down your problems.

my bet , blown fuse!
God I hope it's just a fuse, wouldn't that be nice. I'm just hoping it's not related to the ls1 to ls2 conversion with the electrical. I know I needed an ls1 crankshaft to work with my ls1 computer and sensors. I'm just hoping that the crankshaft is actually an ls1 because I bought it from a member on here. It was brand new though and I have the part number so that will be easy to look up I think. I also converted all the other things that needed to be changed for the new ls2 style LSX block. If I remember right there was some kind of thing with the conversion harness that wires had to be switched if it didn't start the way it is. I can't remember if it caused no spark though or if the car just didn't want to start. That's another thing to read up on.
Does anyone know which sensors will cause the car to get no spark? The crank sensor is the only one I know but I'm not sure if that's it. First I'm going to check for spark. If there is no spark then I can go through all the fusses, relays and then I have to start going through sensors. If there is spark, then I need to look at the fuel side of things.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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I thoght you would have checked the fuse for your last probem but since you burned the wires its likely you have a burnt fuse

I did read that you may need to switch the wires on the sensor not sure witch wires but I know it was the crank sensor
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:25 AM
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I guess I better go through all the fuses but it always seems like thats never the case, at least for me. It's easy enough to check though so I'll go through all of them next.
This morning I did make some progress. I'm getting spark and it just so happened it poped the first time while I had my girl holding the plug wire with the exposed plug and scared the **** out of her, poor girl, I feel bad having her help me, shes the best Anyway, after that I put the plug wire back on the plug in the head and tried it a few more times. First was a couple random bangs/pops then as I tried a couple more times I started to get a studder, like it was almost trying to start but I didn't hear any exhaust. I'm wondering if it just takes turning it over some more to get the computer to relearn the new set-up and figure out the timing. Is it pretty normal to have to try starting it a bunch with a new engine? Either that or the sensors are still in question but I didn't think I would get spark if that was the case. It sucks cause I'm scared to death to keep turning it over after the little fire insidence.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:29 AM
  #504  
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Sounds like somethings still amiss. It should fire right up like it did before if everything is in place...
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:36 AM
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is your fuel system good? do you have pressure at the rails? (sorry if that's been covered, i only skimmed a couple pages)
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by CamaroSS19
I thoght you would have checked the fuse for your last probem but since you burned the wires its likely you have a burnt fuse

I did read that you may need to switch the wires on the sensor not sure witch wires but I know it was the crank sensor
I know what your talking about with switching the wires, it's actually the cam sensor harness and I went back and researched to refresh my memory and it won't stop it from starting, just the tach won't work right. I'm thinking it's either fine and needs more starts, needs new crank sensor or fuses. The fuses are the least risk and won't cost anything to check so that's next on my list to check. If they are all good, I'll try starting a couple more times and if it still won't start I'll try the crank sensor.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000_SS
is your fuel system good? do you have pressure at the rails? (sorry if that's been covered, i only skimmed a couple pages)
Fuel pressure shoots up to 60psi and then drops to like 45, I thought that was a little odd but I think it might have done that before too and then once started it stays at like 58.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by ChevyChad
Sounds like somethings still amiss. It should fire right up like it did before if everything is in place...
If that's the case then I bet it's the crank sensor. Is there any other sensors that would stop the car from starting? I'm going to check fuses first.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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As has been stated previously make sure the injectors are actually spraying. My guess is that you do have fuel pressure as stated but the injectors aren't spraying for some reason or another. Could be that you have so much fuel pressure that one or some of the injectors may be pushing a little mist out here and there and that's where you are getting your popping from....
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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The cam sensor can give you problems starting too. I had a problem with it and it would start and run randomly (no tach though), but some times it would just spudder and not fire. Something to look into.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 05:48 PM
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Thing is, it will start with the cam position sensor bad (even tho it will run like crap)... It will not start at all if the crank sensor is bad...

Last edited by ChevyChad; Sep 7, 2008 at 05:53 PM.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 07:43 PM
  #512  
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Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key on?
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 08:44 PM
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well, you have fuel and you have spark, and with the F2 you obviously have air...i would say check those sensors. just go get new ones or borrow someone else's to see...i dunno what they cost.

what kinda tune do you have in the ECU? i would imagine even with a decent mail-order, it would take some time for the engine to actually fire. i mean, if all your sensors work, fuel and air is ample, and you have spark...then the only thing affecting your ability to fire would be timing, which is set by the computer.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 10:46 PM
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I had a similar issue once, and there was no blown fuses, crank and cam sensors were all good. I was getting spark and fuel so why wouldn't it start..... The PCM was fried. Hope that is not it
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 11:08 PM
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From the last few posts, I have another idea why it may not want to start. I don't have the blower belt on yet so it's having to pull the air all the way through. The computer is on my old tune from the D1 set-up so it was getting air pushed in from the start. Maybe it's just not getting enough air? I'm waiting on the belt in the mail. Maybe once the blower is spinning and pushing more air into it maybe it will fire up. My old engine did blow so there might also be a chance that the computer just got fried?
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 12:13 AM
  #516  
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probably got fried when you had the electrical problem
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 01:42 AM
  #517  
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easy way to check it is to remove it and install it on another car, if it fires and runs ( it would be a bit rough ideling) you know the pcm is ok.

the whole not enough air going to the engine sounds reasonable. easiest way to check is to have the belt on and give it a try. if that doesn't work change the cam sensor wires just to make sure , then change both cam and crank sensors, if that doesn't work ( you would atleast have two spare sensors) i would be suspesious of the pcm.
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 01:44 AM
  #518  
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why not just pull the intake hose tube off of the tb?
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 04:33 AM
  #519  
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I highly doubt it's not getting enough air.

Have you checked to see if it's getting spark yet?
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Old Sep 8, 2008 | 05:05 AM
  #520  
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yup he did , and made his girlfiend hate his car even more
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