rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Don't forget 1 7/8" headers too lol, yeah pretty much everything has changed except the heads, fuel and tune. It makes sence to me it would need some things changed but I'm just going off what my tuner said and he does a lot of cars including high hp FI builds(one of the largest shops in the nw suburbs of Chicago). I think what he's saying is that it should still be able to idle and drive with the old tune. I actually had the computer out of the car at at the shop for just a basic tune to get it running and he told me he wouldn't change anything
I did have hp tuners at one point but was scared to change anything so I sold it and leave the tuning up to someone that knows what they are doing. So to answer your question, no, I have no way to data log.

GT67METHV

tow it to your tuner for some data loging
and get it solved. (unless you have a friend with hp tuner sw)
it's all wasted time on your own.

DanZ28

iTrader: (5)

I won't argue with a tuner like speed inc, I don't know enough about it. Data logger will tell you though whats going on, see if someone by you can help out. I know when I went to the TRex on my old stuff from a smaller cam, the car started fine the first time, then didn't run for **** from then on without a tune, but did start, and that was just a cam swap. Maybe it's just your plugs, hopefully something simple. Just get those rings sealed and quit washing the cylinders .

Dark Shadow

is your regulator boost referenced? how many lbs you plan on running? have your regulator set for 60psi max and at full boost and subtract the boost you plan on running from 60 so that your running alot lower at idle. example 15lbs of boost at 60psi fuel= 45psi at idle.

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Well the new plugs and wires didn't do ****. I wish I new someone around me that had something to log it. I'm not going to be able to have it towed to the shop this year so I guess it's time to call it quits until the spring. I'll throw a new map sensor on it to check but I doubt it's that because it has run for a short period of time already. If the map doesn't work then it's time for a break until I can get some tuning

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

Yeah, I believe that's how it's set-up already, it was making about 15psi with the old set-up. Now that I'm planning to run around 30psi I guess I could adjust the pressure a little lower.

MFIC

Could it still be the map sensor? You could check the voltage coming out of the 3 bar map sensor it should be about 1 bar or 100kpa with the key on engine not running. So .1 volts is 0kpa and 4.9volts is 300kpa or so. If my math is right 1.6 volts is 100kpa or 1bar. It should be close to that. Also when i did my IAT relocate I did not have it pluged in all the way and it defaults to -30* so my truck was pig rich from the IAT adder tables in the tune.

98Z28CobraKiller

iTrader: (17)

Bad ECT will also dump fuel.

rufretic

iTrader: (37)

I have a volt meter but how do I test it?

What does ECT stand for?

98Camarod

iTrader: (43)

Engine Coolant Temperature. The sensor is on the driver side front of the head on my ls1. Should be some where close to that I'd think on your setup

MFIC

I belive its the brown wire to the map sensor. ECT= Engine coolant temp.

rat496boy

iTrader: (2)

excuse my noobness, but why does it cause that?

camarols1

iTrader: (17)

The PCM thinks that the coolant is -30 so it adds a TON of fuel, as MFIC mentioned.
Imagine trying to drive a carbed car down the road with the choke stuck closed in the summertime, not good!

rat496boy

iTrader: (2)

not to hijack, but mine hasnt been pluged in for a year, and im just no recently having serious fuel issues with my car and wonder if this is it.

exploder

iTrader: (1)

I am not 100% sure here, but bear with me. You just built this setup and you have changed just about everything from your old setup. If you had HPT or EFI live you can find a table called Predicted MAP Max...in that table you have rows for RPM and Columns for MAP kpa....My car like yours is supercharged and got a hellatious amount of extra airflow at idle when I first put it on and this freaked those values in my tune. Basically it had more kpa at idle than the computer could calculate for and it would just run for a second and then die...no codes just die. Then I would try and start it again and it would do just like your car does now. Also, did you change your map from what you previously had on your car from before the build, because if you went from a 1 bar to a 2 or even a 3 then the value they are going to show when your car does try to crank is eith going to be half of what it should be if it is a 2 bar or 1/3 if it is a 3 bar. Good luck and may the force be with you.

veee8

iTrader: (40)

He had 3 bar on the previous setup.

gromero

iTrader: (1)

What are you planning for head gasket (size & brand) and associated quench? Are your pistons in the hole or did you deck the block?

gromero

iTrader: (1)

my bad, scratch that last question, was suppose to be for another thread.

gromero

iTrader: (1)

So what was your head gasket size and manufacturer. Also, what was your measured piston to deck measurement and your final quench#'s?

gromero

iTrader: (1)

So what was your head gasket size and manufacturer. Also, what was your measured piston to deck measurement and your final quench#'s?