TIG welding hotside question.
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TIG welding hotside question. I was looking at the stainless Y pipe that Thunder built for my car years ago and the weld beads are so flat & clean that I suspect they may have fusion welded it and used on filler. Have any of you welded your hotsides with just fusion welds?
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Here's a pic of the weld that I suspect is a fusion weld, what to you think?
Like 70stang said, you really need to use filler. Material and thickness really determines if you need a root pass. It is possible that your y pipe was tigged and they used a smaller filler rod and wider bead so it looks flatter.
Edit: I can't see your picture at work since images are blocked but I will take a look when I get home later for you.
Edit: I can't see your picture at work since images are blocked but I will take a look when I get home later for you.
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From: Alexandria La.
Like 70stang said, you really need to use filler. Material and thickness really determines if you need a root pass. It is possible that your y pipe was tigged and they used a smaller filler rod and wider bead so it looks flatter.
Edit: I can't see your picture at work since images are blocked but I will take a look when I get home later for you.
Edit: I can't see your picture at work since images are blocked but I will take a look when I get home later for you.
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Thanks, I was using 3/32 to practice and it was messy, think I'll try some .045 and see if I can make it look clean.
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From: Alexandria La.
You can fusion weld stainless tubing with a thickness of around sch.10
If done properly the joint will withstand hundreds of PSI.
Simply butting up two clean ends and welding them together with the appropriate heat will
penetrate the tubing creating a bead on the inside as well.
For a smooth bead on the inside of the tubing use argon as a purge.
You can add filler material as needed but be aware of the metal depositing on the inside of the tubing.
You see fusion processes performed in all sanitary food grade environments where the inside of the tubing can not have excessive penetration. This is done to alleviate the possibility of food product particles getting caught in the "penetrating weld"
If that would occur the stuck particle can spoil creating a contaminated batch.
If done properly the joint will withstand hundreds of PSI.
Simply butting up two clean ends and welding them together with the appropriate heat will
penetrate the tubing creating a bead on the inside as well.
For a smooth bead on the inside of the tubing use argon as a purge.
You can add filler material as needed but be aware of the metal depositing on the inside of the tubing.
You see fusion processes performed in all sanitary food grade environments where the inside of the tubing can not have excessive penetration. This is done to alleviate the possibility of food product particles getting caught in the "penetrating weld"
If that would occur the stuck particle can spoil creating a contaminated batch.
Last edited by Derek @ EDO; Jun 24, 2008 at 04:02 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Alexandria La.
You can fusion weld stainless tubing with a thickness of around sch.10
If done properly the joint will withstand hundreds of PSI.
Simply butting up two clean ends and welding them together with the appropriate heat will
penetrate the tubing creating a bead on the inside as well.
For a smooth bead on the inside of the tubing use argon as a purge.
You can add filler material as needed but be aware of the metal depositing on the inside of the tubing.
You see fusion processes performed in all sanitary food grade environments where the inside of the tubing can not have excessive penetration. This is done to alleviate the possibility of food product particles getting caught in the "penetrating weld"
If that would occur the stuck particle can spoil creating a contaminated batch.
If done properly the joint will withstand hundreds of PSI.
Simply butting up two clean ends and welding them together with the appropriate heat will
penetrate the tubing creating a bead on the inside as well.
For a smooth bead on the inside of the tubing use argon as a purge.
You can add filler material as needed but be aware of the metal depositing on the inside of the tubing.
You see fusion processes performed in all sanitary food grade environments where the inside of the tubing can not have excessive penetration. This is done to alleviate the possibility of food product particles getting caught in the "penetrating weld"
If that would occur the stuck particle can spoil creating a contaminated batch.
Very interesting info, thanks!
Your very welcome. And to explain why....
You should only have to see at max 55 amps +/- to weld standard exhaust pipe in mild steel or stainless steel form. The effective range of 1/16 tungesten is right in that range, where-as 3/32 tungsten is pushing it on the effective range, you can do it with a very long taper. But 1/16 makes life easier.
For filler rod, 1/16 is what you want simply because it makes over depositing less likely to happen. You mentioned above that you were having this issue. It should go away now if you leave your technique alone, If I assume right.
Also, 309l filler metal is for disimilar metals like MS to SS. It works great on SS to SS aswell. Its just more useful, a bit more expensive, but it serves more then one purpose compared to a 308 filler rod.
Hope that helps a bit more
Looks like it had filler rod but it's not the best picture to tell. 304 should be fine for what you want to do. My turbo headers are 321 but most that I build are 304 or ms and then coated. I would just use 308 filler with the 304 stainless but if you want to spend more money 309 will work also as stated above.
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From: Alexandria La.
Looks like it had filler rod but it's not the best picture to tell. 304 should be fine for what you want to do. My turbo headers are 321 but most that I build are 304 or ms and then coated. I would just use 308 filler with the 304 stainless but if you want to spend more money 309 will work also as stated above.
Your very welcome. And to explain why....
You should only have to see at max 55 amps +/- to weld standard exhaust pipe in mild steel or stainless steel form. The effective range of 1/16 tungesten is right in that range, where-as 3/32 tungsten is pushing it on the effective range, you can do it with a very long taper. But 1/16 makes life easier.
For filler rod, 1/16 is what you want simply because it makes over depositing less likely to happen. You mentioned above that you were having this issue. It should go away now if you leave your technique alone, If I assume right.
Also, 309l filler metal is for disimilar metals like MS to SS. It works great on SS to SS aswell. Its just more useful, a bit more expensive, but it serves more then one purpose compared to a 308 filler rod.
Hope that helps a bit more
You should only have to see at max 55 amps +/- to weld standard exhaust pipe in mild steel or stainless steel form. The effective range of 1/16 tungesten is right in that range, where-as 3/32 tungsten is pushing it on the effective range, you can do it with a very long taper. But 1/16 makes life easier.
For filler rod, 1/16 is what you want simply because it makes over depositing less likely to happen. You mentioned above that you were having this issue. It should go away now if you leave your technique alone, If I assume right.
Also, 309l filler metal is for disimilar metals like MS to SS. It works great on SS to SS aswell. Its just more useful, a bit more expensive, but it serves more then one purpose compared to a 308 filler rod.
Hope that helps a bit more
Gonna pick up some 309 because I'm sure @ some point I will have to weld some MS to SS.
