Rear Mount Folks, Some ??'s
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 43
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From: Indiana
Rear Mount Folks, Some ??'s Hi Gents:
It seems there is an issue with rear mount kits and the cold side pipe "taking the place of" the drive side subfram connector - are there any solutions on the market for this; or is it one or the other type deal?
Also, this is for an 00 5.7L M6 car - would the 61MM/.8x AR be better for response then say the 67MM/.?? AR ?
Comments welcome....
It seems there is an issue with rear mount kits and the cold side pipe "taking the place of" the drive side subfram connector - are there any solutions on the market for this; or is it one or the other type deal?
Also, this is for an 00 5.7L M6 car - would the 61MM/.8x AR be better for response then say the 67MM/.?? AR ?
Comments welcome....
have you seen my car and what I have done. i think there is only a 60mm and 67mm then 70mm sized turbos, then 76mm. could be wrong.
what cam/heads and what not do yo have so far. we kind of need a better idea of what you are running to be able to judge what TURBO is BEST for your CAR. its not as simple as oh lets get a xxmm turbo.
what cam/heads and what not do yo have so far. we kind of need a better idea of what you are running to be able to judge what TURBO is BEST for your CAR. its not as simple as oh lets get a xxmm turbo.
That cam is a great boost cam, If you are looking for fast spool go with a 60-1 with a .81 a/r housing. Looking for more overall power and slightly slower spool, go wiht a gt-67 and reccommend adain the .81 a/r. I also would go with methonal injection as insurance. Depending if you have forged bottom end, you could saefly run 8psi on stock bootom end but its a bit farfetched to acheive 600whp on a stock bottom end...and tranny....and rear end.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 43
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From: Indiana
That cam is a great boost cam, If you are looking for fast spool go with a 60-1 with a .81 a/r housing. Looking for more overall power and slightly slower spool, go wiht a gt-67 and reccommend adain the .81 a/r. I also would go with methonal injection as insurance. Depending if you have forged bottom end, you could saefly run 8psi on stock bootom end but its a bit farfetched to acheive 600whp on a stock bottom end...and tranny....and rear end.
I don't see what's far fetched about 600whp provided the car is knowledgeable hands...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 43
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From: Indiana
No worries, the deck is going to be stacked...
It is an M6 car - I'm trying to avoid a turd. If the 5.7L doesn't have enough to be responsive with the 67mm, the expectations would be realigned.
It is an M6 car - I'm trying to avoid a turd. If the 5.7L doesn't have enough to be responsive with the 67mm, the expectations would be realigned.
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tell zombie that.
ANYWAY... back to REAR MOUNT.
check out my build. either get you a 60mm or 67... personally with all that you are doing I would get the 67mm get that A/R ratio for that 600HP, as the 60mm is a tad small for that.
I'm only going to 500~550HP and at 7psi MAYBE 8psi with my cam so yeh
I would get the 70 if you want those kind of numbers havent seen anyone with the 60's making as much as you want . The small turbos will become a restriction at the higher power levels ,then all you will be doing is creating heat in the intake charge .
From my reserch none of those turbos will be efficent even on a stock ls1 when looking at a compresor map the only choice that will be in the sweet spot is the 76 IMO .
I know a guy that stoped making power a 4k with the 67 cause the turbo flowed about as much as the stock motor could pump and he had a decent size cam in it .
If you do push that much power either way on stock drivetrain your pushing it . You could do it but for how long do you want your car to run after a big project like this cause it may only be a week or two
From my reserch none of those turbos will be efficent even on a stock ls1 when looking at a compresor map the only choice that will be in the sweet spot is the 76 IMO .
I know a guy that stoped making power a 4k with the 67 cause the turbo flowed about as much as the stock motor could pump and he had a decent size cam in it .
If you do push that much power either way on stock drivetrain your pushing it . You could do it but for how long do you want your car to run after a big project like this cause it may only be a week or two
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Indiana
Again, please don't worry about things out of your control, I won't come back looking for sympathy.
There's still some issues - sub frame connectors - is everyone not running a driver side?
There's still some issues - sub frame connectors - is everyone not running a driver side?
I think the 67mm turbo is going to be too small for that kind of power and is maxed out at 15psi. Then u take into acount that u have about 2psi pressure drop through the sts piping, another 2-3psi for intercooler, and if u have a low lsa cam another 2psi. I had one and got about 500rwhp @7psi, and it was pretty muched maxed out. I just put on a tc76 out back and running 10psi right now, still on the 10bolt(3.42gears and t/a performance cover).
Hoping it will dyno at 600+ now.
As for the subframe thing I am not sure, I dont have any. Sorry.
Hoping it will dyno at 600+ now.
As for the subframe thing I am not sure, I dont have any. Sorry.
The SFC should be no problem I know lots of guys with 10 sec cars with SFC at all . I just took both mine out these cars have a pretty storng frame compared to lets say something terriable like a fox body mustang
get a 67 or 70mm turbo, ... i would get a 70mm.
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,501
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From: Ft. Irwin, California (But Virginia is home)
I think you can hit 600RWHP fine on a -67 turbo. However, I don't think you can hit the goal safely on a stock bottom end.
I put down 453RWHP on 5PSI and a conservative AFR. 7-8PSI would definetly have gotten me over the 500RWHP hurdle. 12PSI will get you in the 600's w/ adequate fuel + good tuning. Your stock rod bolts will be blowing through the block sooner rather than later w/ that kind of HP and pressure though. So.....build the bottom end and then yes, totally doable.
BTW, that 453 I quoted was using 72cc heads for a 9:1 compression, so a low compression rebuild for big boost would support these numbers
Your ZO6 cn choice is also sound. Another option is the CC228 on a 115LSA. It worked well for me when boosted.
Subframes.....SOL. Adding one is a recipe for disaster, as the intake pipe will have some kind of flex to it. Add a cage. Basically a "subframe" from the inside. Leave out the center bar if you need the rear seat.
I put down 453RWHP on 5PSI and a conservative AFR. 7-8PSI would definetly have gotten me over the 500RWHP hurdle. 12PSI will get you in the 600's w/ adequate fuel + good tuning. Your stock rod bolts will be blowing through the block sooner rather than later w/ that kind of HP and pressure though. So.....build the bottom end and then yes, totally doable.
BTW, that 453 I quoted was using 72cc heads for a 9:1 compression, so a low compression rebuild for big boost would support these numbers
Your ZO6 cn choice is also sound. Another option is the CC228 on a 115LSA. It worked well for me when boosted.Subframes.....SOL. Adding one is a recipe for disaster, as the intake pipe will have some kind of flex to it. Add a cage. Basically a "subframe" from the inside. Leave out the center bar if you need the rear seat.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
I think you can hit 600RWHP fine on a -67 turbo. However, I don't think you can hit the goal safely on a stock bottom end.
I put down 453RWHP on 5PSI and a conservative AFR. 7-8PSI would definitely have gotten me over the 500RWHP hurdle. 12PSI will get you in the 600's w/ adequate fuel + good tuning. Your stock rod bolts will be blowing through the block sooner rather than later w/ that kind of HP and pressure though. So.....build the bottom end and then yes, totally doable.
BTW, that 453 I quoted was using 72cc heads for a 9:1 compression, so a low compression rebuild for big boost would support these numbers Your ZO6 cn choice is also sound. Another option is the CC228 on a 115LSA. It worked well for me when boosted.
Subframes.....SOL. Adding one is a recipe for disaster, as the intake pipe will have some kind of flex to it. Add a cage. Basically a "subframe" from the inside. Leave out the center bar if you need the rear seat.
I put down 453RWHP on 5PSI and a conservative AFR. 7-8PSI would definitely have gotten me over the 500RWHP hurdle. 12PSI will get you in the 600's w/ adequate fuel + good tuning. Your stock rod bolts will be blowing through the block sooner rather than later w/ that kind of HP and pressure though. So.....build the bottom end and then yes, totally doable.
BTW, that 453 I quoted was using 72cc heads for a 9:1 compression, so a low compression rebuild for big boost would support these numbers
Your ZO6 cn choice is also sound. Another option is the CC228 on a 115LSA. It worked well for me when boosted.Subframes.....SOL. Adding one is a recipe for disaster, as the intake pipe will have some kind of flex to it. Add a cage. Basically a "subframe" from the inside. Leave out the center bar if you need the rear seat.
The rod bolts will be changed when the K is lowered and oil pan tapped; no plans to rev past 6,000. I know enough about drag racing and unibody design to say I'm not going without SFCs as I don't deem a cage necessary for weekend warrior (Not out to break any records.)
Jeff - Thanks for the picture.
I think the 67mm turbo is going to be too small for that kind of power and is maxed out at 15psi. Then u take into acount that u have about 2psi pressure drop through the sts piping, another 2-3psi for intercooler, and if u have a low lsa cam another 2psi. I had one and got about 500rwhp @7psi, and it was pretty muched maxed out. I just put on a tc76 out back and running 10psi right now, still on the 10bolt(3.42gears and t/a performance cover).
Hoping it will dyno at 600+ now.
As for the subframe thing I am not sure, I dont have any. Sorry.
Hoping it will dyno at 600+ now.
As for the subframe thing I am not sure, I dont have any. Sorry.
you usually lose 2-3psi through an intercooler like you said.