Hi Gents:

It seems there is an issue with rear mount kits and the cold side pipe "taking the place of" the drive side subfram connector - are there any solutions on the market for this; or is it one or the other type deal?

Also, this is for an 00 5.7L M6 car - would the 61MM/.8x AR be better for response then say the 67MM/.?? AR ?

Comments welcome....

 

have you seen my car and what I have done. i think there is only a 60mm and 67mm then 70mm sized turbos, then 76mm. could be wrong.

what cam/heads and what not do yo have so far. we kind of need a better idea of what you are running to be able to judge what TURBO is BEST for your CAR. its not as simple as oh lets get a xxmm turbo.

 

I have not seen your car, I will check it out. Most likely will be the larger chamber truck heads, Z06 Cam, shooting for 500-600whp.

 

That cam is a great boost cam, If you are looking for fast spool go with a 60-1 with a .81 a/r housing. Looking for more overall power and slightly slower spool, go wiht a gt-67 and reccommend adain the .81 a/r. I also would go with methonal injection as insurance. Depending if you have forged bottom end, you could saefly run 8psi on stock bootom end but its a bit farfetched to acheive 600whp on a stock bottom end...and tranny....and rear end.

 

The driveline won't be stock as soon as it starts coming apart ( I don't count on the 10 bolt holding, just need it for tuning and getting the bugs worked out)

I don't see what's far fetched about 600whp provided the car is knowledgeable hands...

 

Personally I'd run a .96 AR and you'll need an intercooler and/or meth to make that kinda power.

At 600 hp its just a matter of time before something major breaks.

 

No worries, the deck is going to be stacked...

It is an M6 car - I'm trying to avoid a turd. If the 5.7L doesn't have enough to be responsive with the 67mm, the expectations would be realigned.

 

you'll have plenty of response with a 67mm. Like others said, i wouldn't count on 600rwhp lasting a long time. It's been done, but far and few between

 

Put me into the few and far between category

600 is kill mode...

 

Do a "top" mount and you wont have any issues!

 

tell zombie that.


ANYWAY... back to REAR MOUNT.
check out my build. either get you a 60mm or 67... personally with all that you are doing I would get the 67mm get that A/R ratio for that 600HP, as the 60mm is a tad small for that.

I'm only going to 500~550HP and at 7psi MAYBE 8psi with my cam so yeh

 

I would get the 70 if you want those kind of numbers havent seen anyone with the 60's making as much as you want . The small turbos will become a restriction at the higher power levels ,then all you will be doing is creating heat in the intake charge .

From my reserch none of those turbos will be efficent even on a stock ls1 when looking at a compresor map the only choice that will be in the sweet spot is the 76 IMO .

I know a guy that stoped making power a 4k with the 67 cause the turbo flowed about as much as the stock motor could pump and he had a decent size cam in it .

If you do push that much power either way on stock drivetrain your pushing it . You could do it but for how long do you want your car to run after a big project like this cause it may only be a week or two

 

Again, please don't worry about things out of your control, I won't come back looking for sympathy.

There's still some issues - sub frame connectors - is everyone not running a driver side?

 

I think the 67mm turbo is going to be too small for that kind of power and is maxed out at 15psi. Then u take into acount that u have about 2psi pressure drop through the sts piping, another 2-3psi for intercooler, and if u have a low lsa cam another 2psi. I had one and got about 500rwhp @7psi, and it was pretty muched maxed out. I just put on a tc76 out back and running 10psi right now, still on the 10bolt(3.42gears and t/a performance cover).
Hoping it will dyno at 600+ now.

As for the subframe thing I am not sure, I dont have any. Sorry.

 

So if you dont care if the motor will last

The SFC should be no problem I know lots of guys with 10 sec cars with SFC at all . I just took both mine out these cars have a pretty storng frame compared to lets say something terriable like a fox body mustang

 

if you run only 1 subframe connector you risk twisting permanently the chassis. think about it.

get a 67 or 70mm turbo, ... i would get a 70mm.

 

I think you can hit 600RWHP fine on a -67 turbo. However, I don't think you can hit the goal safely on a stock bottom end.

I put down 453RWHP on 5PSI and a conservative AFR. 7-8PSI would definetly have gotten me over the 500RWHP hurdle. 12PSI will get you in the 600's w/ adequate fuel + good tuning. Your stock rod bolts will be blowing through the block sooner rather than later w/ that kind of HP and pressure though. So.....build the bottom end and then yes, totally doable.

BTW, that 453 I quoted was using 72cc heads for a 9:1 compression, so a low compression rebuild for big boost would support these numbers Your ZO6 cn choice is also sound. Another option is the CC228 on a 115LSA. It worked well for me when boosted.

Subframes.....SOL. Adding one is a recipe for disaster, as the intake pipe will have some kind of flex to it. Add a cage. Basically a "subframe" from the inside. Leave out the center bar if you need the rear seat.

 

hey, i designed my own charge pipe, and its not the best pic, but i have the big boxed triangle slp subframe connectors welded in, and i ran my charge pipe right along it.

 

The rod bolts will be changed when the K is lowered and oil pan tapped; no plans to rev past 6,000. I know enough about drag racing and unibody design to say I'm not going without SFCs as I don't deem a cage necessary for weekend warrior (Not out to break any records.)

Jeff - Thanks for the picture.

 

first of all, with JUST the STS piping you don't lose any boost, if you do it is very little.

you usually lose 2-3psi through an intercooler like you said.