Who has had a meth kit fail?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 366
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The only way they would have a failure because of methanol, is lack of tuning knowledge... The safety net for meth, is tuning timing xxx amount to pull when IAT's rise above xxx temp... My tuning pulls 5 degrees at 90 degree IAT's and ramps up from there... my normal IATs are high 70's to low 80's... If you lose methanol from a failure, IAT's rise 20+degrees in a nanosecond... There in lies the trade secret... go Methanol... you won't regret it... Just make sure you have a tuner that actually knows how to tune for meth, and doesn't just say that he knows...
Methanol is the ONLY reason that we have pushed my little P1SC stock LS2 bottom to a best of 761rwhp last week (with the addition of a new 8rib system)...
Methanol is the ONLY reason that we have pushed my little P1SC stock LS2 bottom to a best of 761rwhp last week (with the addition of a new 8rib system)...
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I agree with Mr. Big, use the IAT as a fail safe system. Rodney from AIS uses it as a fail safe system for his kits. If your tuner knows what he is doing (he should if he is doing FI tunes, lol) then you'll be find. most LS setups have the IAT built into the MAF housing, disconnect it from there and put it up stream near the TB.
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Verdad Gallardo How far in front of the MAF nozzle does the IAT sensor have to be? I have an APS kit which has a spot for the IAT sensor in the neck of the intercooler. I only have a good eight inches or so between the neck of the intercooler and the TB. In that space, I have two silicone pieces and a short 3" pipe with the mmeth nozzle plumbed in. The only thing I could think of would be to put the IAT sensor inside of the intake, which I have done before but not for very long as the motor blew (ha, could be why.) Any suggestions?
I might try plumbing the meth nozzle in the neck of the intercooler and putting the IAT sensor in the metal piping I have between the neck and the TB. I would have to make a new hole closer to the end of the neck though as the IAT location would not allow me to make a straight shot into the TB. Think the meth would 'find' its way in there?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
do NOT put the iat sensor in front of the maf or spray in front of the maf for any reason... The methanol will ruin the maf... You must spray after the maf, then you need a minimum of three inches before the IAT, 4-5inches would be best... My iat sensor is built into the maf, so I have to run an external iat sensor and bypass the original... and both of my nozzles are plumbed into the high temp silicone coupler on either side... see pic below, hope this helps
I forget what brand, but i saw a line from a meth kit come undone and smoke a motor. It's to my understanding it's a good idea to take a lil crazy glue to those tiny lines where they go into the pump. the little "quick" disconnects are sometimes easily detachable with a small tug or rattle
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 88
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I had mine fail, sort of. It started leaking on the suction side of the pump I think, and I ran it dry. My tune is very conservative because I am on a stock engine, but I suddenly picked up 5* of KR. I always log when I'm beating on it and noticed right away. I don't use my IAT sensor, so that did not give it away. Not an ls1, but a 3.8L car with a lot of boost.
I had mine "fail" once... It was a wiring problem, not a malfunction...
But I have an LED that turns on only when spraying, and I was coming into boost and noticed the light did not come on at all. I released the throttle immediately, the most boost being maybe 3 psi, with nothing critical happening at all... I was like WTF, had it wired better by somebody who actually understands electronics (not me), and it was done.
IMO, everyone should run a kill switch, a light that says when it's active, and a nice bright light that turns on only when spraying.
My Snow system was improved by Masport... The LED they set-up that turns on when spraying is really cool. Because the system is progressive and starts at 3 psi, the LED will turn on lightly and brighten along with the increasing spray.
But I have an LED that turns on only when spraying, and I was coming into boost and noticed the light did not come on at all. I released the throttle immediately, the most boost being maybe 3 psi, with nothing critical happening at all... I was like WTF, had it wired better by somebody who actually understands electronics (not me), and it was done.
IMO, everyone should run a kill switch, a light that says when it's active, and a nice bright light that turns on only when spraying.
My Snow system was improved by Masport... The LED they set-up that turns on when spraying is really cool. Because the system is progressive and starts at 3 psi, the LED will turn on lightly and brighten along with the increasing spray.
I had a pump go bad after about a year and a half. I have an Alky Contol kit. The indicator lights did their job. The light would not go to green from testing it. Then I put a new pump in it has worked great ever since.
I had a pump die after about 2 years on my truck. They think it might have been one of there first pumps before they put the better seals in them, but it fried the pump motor. I happen to be logging at the time and noticed when I got into boost, the IAT's didn't drop like normal, (this was summer in AZ so they really drop a lot when it sprays). I keep it pretty conservative for street tuning, but I probably put a lot more miles on my truck them most of you guys since it's my DD. I run a mix of 75% -20*wwf (about 30% meth it's self) and 25% pure meth and have probable put 40 gallons or more thought this setup over the last 3 years. I have just a single M15 nozzle on a Devils Own progressive kit, running 8psi on the street and 15psi at the track. I never understood why people are so afraid if it failing, it's got the same chance of failing as a fuel pump or plugging an injector. There is always a chance of something failing and killing a motor, especially with FI.
