TTi Race System v.Build up, Ryan K
TTi Race System v.Build up, Ryan K This is the official Race System thread. Below you'll find step by step pictures on the production of this kit and the components it includes. Please feel free to ask any questions as this will give us a good FAQ/Knowledge base for the future.
I thought I'd take the time to show you guys the process involved when making the turbo headers for our LS1 Race System.
STEP 1:
Gather your materials! 304 stainless steel 1-5/8" u-bends, form collectors, and flanges.
STEP 2:
Grab the jig and begin welding primaries tubes.
STEP 3:
Grab your header flange, slip fit your primaries into the flange and let the argon starting flowing!
STEP 4:
Prepare your master piece for the form collector and v-band flange! (Notice how flush and well prepared the surface is for the collector)
Argon back purging is important in any manifold/header design, NA or forced induction, for optimal flow. By doing this, you reduce the amount of scaling and oxidation created by joining the two metals.
STEP 5:
Use whats necessary to keep your jig and parts in place and have at it.. again.
STEP 5:
Here's a few more pictures of the build process.
Jack with the weapon of choice to heat up that form collector!
When the kit is all said and done, you'll end up with something like this when you unbox your new prized possession:
Continued on next post...
I thought I'd take the time to show you guys the process involved when making the turbo headers for our LS1 Race System.
STEP 1:
Gather your materials! 304 stainless steel 1-5/8" u-bends, form collectors, and flanges.
STEP 2:
Grab the jig and begin welding primaries tubes.
STEP 3:
Grab your header flange, slip fit your primaries into the flange and let the argon starting flowing!
STEP 4:
Prepare your master piece for the form collector and v-band flange! (Notice how flush and well prepared the surface is for the collector)
Argon back purging is important in any manifold/header design, NA or forced induction, for optimal flow. By doing this, you reduce the amount of scaling and oxidation created by joining the two metals.
STEP 5:
Use whats necessary to keep your jig and parts in place and have at it.. again.
STEP 5:
Here's a few more pictures of the build process.
Jack with the weapon of choice to heat up that form collector!
When the kit is all said and done, you'll end up with something like this when you unbox your new prized possession:
Continued on next post...
Last edited by Turbo Tech; Sep 19, 2008 at 03:44 PM. Reason: grammer :)
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Thanks for all the kind words... Remember we've been building systems for over 20 years now. Its not just something you learn how to do overnight (at least thats what they tell me) heheh 
We built this kit to the car. I think the biggest you can fit in that location would be an 82mm. We went across this already with Ryan's kit. If we could have put a bigger wheel in that compressor cover we would have
Mighty Mouse managed to fit an 88MM with this kit with some mods to the mounting position of the turbo, if I am not mistaken (had to do some tinkering). I have this kit and haven't had any problems whatsoever. Got the complete kit the same week that the order was placed. Good work!
Nick
Mighty Mouse managed to fit an 88MM with this kit with some mods to the mounting position of the turbo, if I am not mistaken (had to do some tinkering). I have this kit and haven't had any problems whatsoever. Got the complete kit the same week that the order was placed. Good work!
This new T80 (or T82 to be exact) system is a little different then what he had. The new kit is an air to air intercooler (its still available as an air to water setup too) For the most part the new race system was designed around the original race system; either way they both work flawlessly
Awsome looking kit Nick!!! Do you guys make an air filter kit too? (sorry, I'am turbo dummy, but I had to make my own for my F1, so I'm curious) Or does it mount right to the turbo?
Mark
Mark
Last edited by WAHUSKER; Sep 20, 2008 at 01:23 PM.