Term ""Pushing Water"" Explain
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Term ""Pushing Water"" Explain I guess since I never really had the term explained I wanted to get some info on what it is, what can be done to prevent it, etc. I should should be right about 1200rwhp with my 408 S91 combo on a non LSX block. (I have the 6.0L iron block)
Explain. I know some other newbie FI people prob dont know the answer.
Explain. I know some other newbie FI people prob dont know the answer.
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From: Hell AFB
Pushing water is when the head lifts, and sends cylinder pressure into water jacket. Thus coming out the over flow. It can also lift and send water out the side of the deck.
Draining your coolant can every pass is a good way to check and see if your pushing water.
A way to tame it down a bit, is to o-ring the head and or block. However, being only a 4 bolt design, you will have issues with it regardless.
Draining your coolant can every pass is a good way to check and see if your pushing water.
A way to tame it down a bit, is to o-ring the head and or block. However, being only a 4 bolt design, you will have issues with it regardless.
I guess since I never really had the term explained I wanted to get some info on what it is, what can be done to prevent it, etc. I should should be right about 1200rwhp with my 408 S91 combo on a non LSX block. (I have the 6.0L iron block)
Explain. I know some other newbie FI people prob dont know the answer.
Explain. I know some other newbie FI people prob dont know the answer.
It can puke out some water due to pressure.
A lot of ideas of what helps on here. Me, I like the thicker deck heads & a good tune.
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From: Houston TX/Worldwide
Pushing water is when the head lifts, and sends cylinder pressure into water jacket. Thus coming out the over flow. It can also lift and send water out the side of the deck.
Draining your coolant can every pass is a good way to check and see if your pushing water.
A way to tame it down a bit, is to o-ring the head and or block. However, being only a 4 bolt design, you will have issues with it regardless.
Draining your coolant can every pass is a good way to check and see if your pushing water.
A way to tame it down a bit, is to o-ring the head and or block. However, being only a 4 bolt design, you will have issues with it regardless.
Thread Starter
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From: Houston TX/Worldwide
Ok that explains why I blew the side out of my GTO rad lol. That was my old setup though.
FormerVendor
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From: Hell AFB
A thicker deck DOES help, but if your making true power then it will lift the head regardless. However, at this power level if you push too much timing and rattle it, you betcha your heads are coming up and the coolant is going out lol.
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Regardless of what you do to try and prevent the head's from lifting, there is just to much cylinder pressure for the 4 bolt head to keep in the cylinder.
You can run less timing and that will help, but eventuly it will start to push water. Some say o-ringing the block and head will help, but eventuly it will push as well.
You can run less timing and that will help, but eventuly it will start to push water. Some say o-ringing the block and head will help, but eventuly it will push as well.
FormerVendor
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From: Hell AFB
Detonation is a sharp spike in pressure, which usualy causes gasket failure and or head lift.
Hunter is correct, the 4 bolt will only hold so much. Kind of like over inflating a tire, eventually it will pop.
For everybody under 1000ish, this should not be something to loose sleep about, you will most likely never encounter it. The blower guys might, but that is only due to the engine being stressed alot more then a turbo ofthe same HP, see parasitic load.
Hunter is correct, the 4 bolt will only hold so much. Kind of like over inflating a tire, eventually it will pop.
For everybody under 1000ish, this should not be something to loose sleep about, you will most likely never encounter it. The blower guys might, but that is only due to the engine being stressed alot more then a turbo ofthe same HP, see parasitic load.
Detonation is short for Pre-detonation. It is usually an increase in presure or hotspots in the combustion chamber that causes you air and fuel mixture to ingnite prematurely. Won't go into it any further as I am not an expert, just read a lot about it. And the results can vary greatly depending on how bad it happens. L19 help get you to hight HP marks with out issues, the 1/2" head studs are a little better, but in the end you will find the limit on either and it will be different from the dyno to the street/track also. GL!
Ok, this might be a silly question, but...
When you lift a head and the combustion gases pressurize the cooling system, what exactly is happening?
Are the head bolts/studs stretching to a point where the head physically lifts a miniscule amount because there isn't enough clamping force. Thus, allowing the combustion to blow past the head gasket?
or
Is it the deck surface of the head flexing from the excessive cylinder pressure, allowing the combustion to blow past the head gasket?
You hear so much about running aftermarket heads with a thicker deck, I'm really not sure what exactly the right answer is.
When you lift a head and the combustion gases pressurize the cooling system, what exactly is happening?
Are the head bolts/studs stretching to a point where the head physically lifts a miniscule amount because there isn't enough clamping force. Thus, allowing the combustion to blow past the head gasket?
or
Is it the deck surface of the head flexing from the excessive cylinder pressure, allowing the combustion to blow past the head gasket?
You hear so much about running aftermarket heads with a thicker deck, I'm really not sure what exactly the right answer is.
I guess since I never really had the term explained I wanted to get some info on what it is, what can be done to prevent it, etc. I should should be right about 1200rwhp with my 408 S91 combo on a non LSX block. (I have the 6.0L iron block)
Explain. I know some other newbie FI people prob dont know the answer.
Explain. I know some other newbie FI people prob dont know the answer.