Racetronix pump not getting power?
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I just installed my Racetronix in tank pump with jumper wire and the car won't start. The hot wire is connected to the Alternator and the relay is grounded as well. The fuse is intact so I know that's not it either. When I turn the key to run I don't hear anything. I've had a friend turn the car to start with the schrader valve on the fuel rail pushed in and nothing. I got my multimeter out and checked voltage to both wires connected to the relay. I'm getting power to the power wire but 0 volts on the output no matter what position the key is in. Everything was connected as per the directions and I even filled the bucket up before everything was put back in. What would cause the jumper wire not to put voltage to the pump? Here is a pic of the relay and ground so you can tell they were done correctly.
![Name: Fuelpumpandrear2012.jpg
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The two red wires were the ones tested for voltage. You can see the ground is in a good spot as well. Anyone have any ideas?
![Name: Fuelpumpandrear2012.jpg
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Size: 101.7 KB](https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/fueling-injection/665694d1501791986-racetronix-pump-not-getting-power-fuelpumpandrear2012.jpg)
The two red wires were the ones tested for voltage. You can see the ground is in a good spot as well. Anyone have any ideas?
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Check the grey wire at the relay & see if it gets 12v when the key is first turned on. This is what activates the relay. I'm assuming the relay does not click at key on.
If you get no power here, then check the factory pump relay or fuses or the connection where the factory harness plugs in to the hot wire kit.
If you get no power here, then check the factory pump relay or fuses or the connection where the factory harness plugs in to the hot wire kit.
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Please contact our support dept. and we will get back to you ASAP.
http://www.racetronix.com/support.html
http://www.racetronix.com/support.html
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Last edited by Racetronix; 12-13-2008 at 12:30 AM.
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Please contact our support dept. and we will get back to you ASAP.
http://www.racetronix.com/support.html
http://www.racetronix.com/support.html
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You never called back after our phone conversation......
Power to the grey wire comes from your car. If it does not have power, there is likely a bad connection where your factory harness plugs in to the Racetronix harness or the factory relay/wiring is not sending the signal for some reason.
If the grey wire has power, then the relay could be at fault, but in this case nothing is commanding the relay to energize.
Check your connections.
Power to the grey wire comes from your car. If it does not have power, there is likely a bad connection where your factory harness plugs in to the Racetronix harness or the factory relay/wiring is not sending the signal for some reason.
If the grey wire has power, then the relay could be at fault, but in this case nothing is commanding the relay to energize.
Check your connections.
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#8
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Check the docs we sent you.
The gray wire can be traced back to the factory bulkhead connector beside the relay. You can test there for factory pump power before you drop the tank.
The gray wire can be traced back to the factory bulkhead connector beside the relay. You can test there for factory pump power before you drop the tank.
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OK, I just checked all the connections and it was a little loose. Got everything back together and now I'm burning fuses. Am I supposed to put a bigger fuse in? I have a 20 Amp mini fuse in there right now.
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I don't think anything's grounded out anywhere. The jumper wire kit is installed in accordance with the directions. Where else could it be shorting and how could I tell? I just put in a 25A fuse in there and it blew that too. What should I check next.
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You will get much faster resolution to your problem by keeping an open dialogue with our support dept.
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Easy, I just removed Racetronix's plug and play kit and reinstalled the factory wiring. Works like a champ now!
Thanks to Racetronix's tech support, you should have suggested that to begin with. (Too bad you can't type in sarcasm!)
Thanks to Racetronix's tech support, you should have suggested that to begin with. (Too bad you can't type in sarcasm!)
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When you jump from one test to the next or use the 'swap method' to diagnose your problem you will not be able to isolate the problem!
- If The Racetronix harness blows the fuse before you even cycle the key then you have a shorted power wire (to ground) between the fuse and the relay.
- If the Racetronix harness blows the fuse after you cycle the key without it being plugged into the fuel module you have a short (to ground) between the relay power output the sender.
* This is assuming you are using quality 20 amp fuses and there is no pump booster installed on the harness.
If the harness has been compromised we will repair or replace it free of charge.
We are opening a RGA for this harness so you can send it back here no charge via UPS. An e-mail has been sent to you asking for some contact and shipping info. A copy of your sales receipt will also help speed things along.
There has to be a simple explanation as to why a harness would test OK after production and then have a short to ground popping fuses once installed.
Either way you will end up with a working harness.
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Manufacturer / Distributor of Automotive Fuel Systems, Components & Electronics
Please support a Racetronix dealer near you for personalized service.
>WEB SITE<
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Manufacturer / Distributor of Automotive Fuel Systems, Components & Electronics
Please support a Racetronix dealer near you for personalized service.
>WEB SITE<