Aeromotive Stealth Fuel Systems for a DD
#1
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SO I am a bit conerned now that I have been reading about the A1000 not being reliable on for street use.
I just purchased a 18651 - A1000 Stealth Sump Kit
for my truck. I drive this thing alot and for the next few months will be a dail driver.
I will be running -10 to the Regulator and up to a Y the -8 to the rails and a -8 return line. Do I REALLY have to run a controller.
My motor setup is
383 stroker afr heads
F1A procharger
Accel proram manifold with 55 lb injectors 1200 cfm TB
does anyone see an issues with this setup for daily use
thanks for the comments
I just purchased a 18651 - A1000 Stealth Sump Kit
for my truck. I drive this thing alot and for the next few months will be a dail driver.
I will be running -10 to the Regulator and up to a Y the -8 to the rails and a -8 return line. Do I REALLY have to run a controller.
My motor setup is
383 stroker afr heads
F1A procharger
Accel proram manifold with 55 lb injectors 1200 cfm TB
does anyone see an issues with this setup for daily use
thanks for the comments
#2
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If I were you, I would add pre- and post-pump filters and the Speed Controller then you are compliant with the Aeromotive recommended install. However; this would only duplicate my setup and given the fact my A1000 lasted for less than 200 hours of drive time...may not be reassuring to you.
Yeh, I’m the guy stuck in a motel in Shamrock, TX since Friday night waiting for another A1000 (ordered too late Friday night for overnight delivery, no delivery on Sunday so overnight became overnight from a Monday order even though I ordered on Friday evening). Understandably today is not a good day to ask for my advice.
My plan is to return to the stock in-tank pump for daily driving and retain the A1000 for the track. This means adding a switch and relay to control which pump is running and adding an aircraft 2 in 1 out valve for selecting supply line source. (it’s 10:03am Tuesday and I’m still waiting for a pump).
Hardy Handshakes
Yeh, I’m the guy stuck in a motel in Shamrock, TX since Friday night waiting for another A1000 (ordered too late Friday night for overnight delivery, no delivery on Sunday so overnight became overnight from a Monday order even though I ordered on Friday evening). Understandably today is not a good day to ask for my advice.
My plan is to return to the stock in-tank pump for daily driving and retain the A1000 for the track. This means adding a switch and relay to control which pump is running and adding an aircraft 2 in 1 out valve for selecting supply line source. (it’s 10:03am Tuesday and I’m still waiting for a pump).
Hardy Handshakes
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ya I was reading about that.. man that sucks. Well I am reading that cavitaion and heat are what kills these pumps, since the kit I
already have now welded into my tank has the prepump filter and A1000 in the sump itself I am hoping that it will help some of the trouble spots, and Yes I am using a 10micro filter post pump before the regulator.
Well we shal see what happens. I might just buy a spare pump to keep in the gove box.
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Well we shal see what happens. I might just buy a spare pump to keep in the gove box.
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I am having to do somthing a bit different, due to the procharger serp system and 12 rib set up the fuel line on the pass side is only about 1/4 " away from the back. so we are mounting the regulator on the fram rail going from the pump into a filter then to the regulator -10 up to the Y then feeding the rails with -8 on each the dead heading the rails. I know that its not the "normal way" to run it but I have been told my a few of he local guys that this will be fine for my setup. but I welcome feedback
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It may work, but is not ideal. The only correct way to plumb it is to put the regulator at the rails, or at least under the hood near the rails. You put the regulator where you want to control the pressure. G-forces & line restriction cannot be compensated for at the back of the car.
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well I am a bit of a loss at this point then. one of the rails has to be capped at one of the ends due to clearance isues with the back of the alt, I am running prochargers Serp kit for carbed application with the 6 rib runs the acc and the 12 rip runs the F1. the y is right at the bell housing below the dizzy, I am running -10 to the y and then -8 to the rails. Withou being able to feed from the back and attach the reg both the front as this would be the best I am not sure what I am going to do.
#9
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You should be just fine that way if you get a good BYPASS style regulator. Check them out with Aeromotive. They are made to dead head like you are wanting to do, instead of regulating the return side.
You need to use the proper type of regulator for it to work though.
You need to use the proper type of regulator for it to work though.
#10
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The Reaper; FWIT If you intend to drive for extended periods you should add the Aeromotive Speed Controller it’s designed to prevent problems. Yes, I’m back on the road again – new pump installed in 20 min and made 700 miles thru last night.![Driving](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_driving3.gif)
Hardy Handshakes
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Hardy Handshakes