hi everyone this is my first post , my first swap,i have a 72 chevy pick up, motor is 2000 5.3,have a fuel cell under bed (carb. tank) wanting to put in tank pump in what is the best way to go thanks

 

First, I would make sure that thing is fully emptied, and vented for a while to dry out. Obviously going in tank is going to involve some cutting, and fabricating. You will need to fashion a plate to bolt back on. On this plate you will need to attach an arm that can reach the bottom of the tank. You can attach the fuel pump to this. Next you will need to put in fuel lines capable of 60 psi. AN -6 line will work just fine for this, or -4 depending on your fueling needs. I'd go -6 though since stock systems are 3/8's anyway.

You will need a pressure and return line. You can put in a tee downstream and use that as the return. Just look at how a stock setup works for a reference. It basically creates a loop that the main fuel line tees off from to the engine. You will also have to include a provision for wiring the pump in. It just needs 2 wires to work properly, power and ground.

So that I believe would be a fun project. There is also the option of buying an entire fuel pump assembly and modifying that to fit. You'll still have to cut a hole, obviously.

The last thing you'll need to address is sealing the plate once to figure out how to attach it. I would weld on a reinforcement ring around the hole, drill it through, and thread it for my mount hardware, 3/8" steel should be plenty for that.

This right here will seal it up more than good enough. We use it for helicopter fuel systems. Just make sure you don't have to go back in the tank for anything when you put this stuff on. I've seen it lift the tail of a black hawk while attempting to pull the intermediate gearbox. Bolts were out, still had proseal on the feet, and using a crane it picked the tail up, roughly 4000 pounds. There is no way to remove it with chemicals. You have to scrape it until it's gone with a putty knife or sharpened plexiglass. It's good ****.

https://pilotshq.com/prc-desoto-890-...SABEgJCbPD_BwE

Oh and don't wear your Sunday best when using this stuff. If it gets on your clothes, well then it's on your clothes. Forever. It's cost me a few uniforms in the past.

 

There is always the inline option too, if you don't want to do all that fabricating. But if you're like me, making something my own, regardless of the work involved, is worth the extra effort.

 

cutting the hole was what I wanted to do, was wanting to put some kind of gm style pump if I could ,hoping to weld ring to top of tank put pump in and be done with the tank part, thanks quick replys

 

That's the easiest route in my opinion. Most of the work is already done, and you'll have a harness to connect to. You'll still need to seal it up nice and tight. I use proseal all over my car. We throw it out when it expires, so occasionally I take advantage of that. It takes 24 hours to cure, sometimes longer. Just leave some out from the mix and when it's dry, then your seal is dry too. It doesn't need air to cure.

 

would you have any idea what pump I would need,i think I will have to make any of them shorter, tank is just 8 1/2in

 

Another consideration is fuel pump capacity. This depends on your injector needs. Pretty much anything requiring 50 pounds and up might need an upgraded pump. You can still use a stock setup and mount in a walbro or the like. Stock pumps will have a hard time keeping up on big injectors. This is also completely dependent on your application. Lots of guys might be running too big of injectors for no reason. For getting the right size you'll have to know the duty cycle. If you see anything above 80%, it's time to upgrade.

IDC = (PW * RPM)/120000

You can use 1200 too if you don't like decimals.

 

I didn't see your reply as I was pretty much answering that. Pump will depend on your injector needs.

 

Walbros are pretty small, actually. 8.5" is more than enough for a walbro 255

 

I will look in to that, every thing on motor is factory, thanks again for the help

 

No problem.

 

Here's a picture of a walbro mounted on a stock f-body fuel pump arm.

 

dan at vetteworks said I could weld ring on top of tank to fit 5th gen Camaro pump change reg. from 88lbs.to 58 lbs.block off return line at intake run hot wire to pump,how do you all fill about blocking return

 

Last I checked, there is no return line at the intake for an LS anything. Only the purge line (Evap) and pressure line. The return is inline, as in two lines come out of the tank, and about 3 or 4 feet up, they come together into a tee, one of which goes to the engine. The regulator is in the return line right after this junction point. I've been trying to find a diagram for it, but it's really a pretty simple setup. This is not the only way you can do this though. There are a million threads out there on how to set up a fuel system through and through. I still have my stock lines, so I'm not the expert for building lines, although I do work a lot with AN stuff. Just haven't gotten around to making fuel supply lines as I don't see an immediate need for it. The stock ones do just fine.

You could install a fuel pump like that if you are looking to do some extra work in messing with fuel pressures. I would just look into a junkyard special and modify that, and throw a walbro or something like that in there. They are only about $80. So if you can get the pump plumbing with lines through the cap and harness from the junkyard for under $20 (which shouldn't be hard), this will stay under a bill. I would guess that the one you are talking about is probably a bit more expensive.

 

what i'am calling return line is on intake (truck intake) by feed line, don't think I can go to junk yard and find anything that I could weld to that aluminum tank, I have guess I could make a ring out of aluminum to fit some kind pump,about ready to put inline pump, some thing I no about and say hell with intank pump

 

Welding on that aluminum is a bit more of a headache. I want to say the tank in my car is steel. If you have a TIG torch, then it's not a big deal. But inline would be the easiest way, obviously. There are a lot of return setups out there for different vehicles. If the line you are seeing has a canister looking thing on it, it's the evap line, not a return. If it does have a return line on it, then that actually makes things easier. I was just going off of stock LS fuel rail designs. I don't deal with a lot of trucks, but every LS powered car that I have seen has evap and pressure. Evap is in the intake behind the TB, and then you'll have the one on the fuel rail. I do know trucks use a rail style fuel pressure regulator, so that might be why yours has a return on the fuel rail. In order to regulate the pressure, it has to send some back to the tank, if that makes sense.