, cant wait to see what E-85 does for my APS twins. 
May 26, 2016, 04:18 PM
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How to run your LS1 on E85
SO has anyone tried different timing with E85? I have my LT1 running on E85 for a month or so now and had advanced my timing 2* across the whole timing map vs my gas tune. I wanted to know if I should tune back or what other people have found to make the best power?
I advanced the timing in my stock truck and it felt slower. I then put the timing table from my car in the truck and it runs great. Even picked up 1 mpg. I have read that if you are set up for max hp on gas then you wont need to change the timing. Unless you go FI, then adding timing really wakes it up. Best way to know for sure is to take it to a dyno and experiment. Every setup is different
I dynoed last weekend and from the initial 2* advance, tried upping it by 1* for the 2nd and again .5* on the 3rd dyno pull for upper RPM and MAP. This only resulted in about 1 hp and 2 tq increase vs where I was at. So should I just leave it where it is with the initial 2* would you say, or at the advanced 3.5*?
I would think that one of the advantages of running E85 was to add more timing for more power. Maybe you do not get that much more power at peak but do under the curve??? I am thinking of doing this on the Camaro and increasing timing down low to improve MPG and responce. Anyone have any experience with these changes?
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Verdad Gallardo I dynoed last weekend and from the initial 2* advance, tried upping it by 1* for the 2nd and again .5* on the 3rd dyno pull for upper RPM and MAP. This only resulted in about 1 hp and 2 tq increase vs where I was at. So should I just leave it where it is with the initial 2* would you say, or at the advanced 3.5*?
Once you see knock or power loss dial it back.
That is the only issue I know of. E-85 does not knock. I ran mine at the dyno at an AFR of 14:1 at 6300 rpm and had no knock at all. So it is entirely posible to advance the timing to far and damage something without knowing until it's to late.
Dynojet Fan
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Mass.
does anyone have a chart that shows what a specific AFR = in E85 values... ie.. E85 stoich = 9.765.... gasoline stoich = 14.63.... can we get a list that starts at stoich and goes down all the way to say 10.00 AFR???
THANKS
THANKS
Just divide the E85 stoich value by the gas stoich value to get the conversion factor. Ex: 8.0 E85 = ~12.0 gas
Does the temp start to get too hot?
I'm not a tuning pro but I always thought you could advance timing as far as you wanted so long as there was no knock? And if power loss started to show up then you had reached your timing advance limit on that particular setup?
Dynojet Fan
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Mass.
edit..... i think i got it.....
12.5(afr) x 0.667(conversion factor) = 8.3375(afr) in e-85 values... now all i need to do is rescale my lc-1 in the logworks programmer...
Last edited by VH5150; Jul 21, 2008 at 05:53 AM.
What do you mean when you say you can damage the engine without knock?
Does the temp start to get too hot?
I'm not a tuning pro but I always thought you could advance timing as far as you wanted so long as there was no knock? And if power loss started to show up then you had reached your timing advance limit on that particular setup?
Does the temp start to get too hot?
I'm not a tuning pro but I always thought you could advance timing as far as you wanted so long as there was no knock? And if power loss started to show up then you had reached your timing advance limit on that particular setup?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...+timing&page=2
Yea, there are a lot of methods out there, and forgive me, but I like to use the ones that are correct. 
Reading your plugs for your indicated timing mark is the way to do it (if you don't have access to a dyno), and including strip tuning you'll be able to tune in for max power. Even with a dyno and knowing max power, reading of the plugs are still benificial, with actual track time to back up dyno. Setting it to KR and then backing off till it goes away tells you what? We want volumetric efficancy and we won't be getting that with guessing about the timing and/or peak timing to be used. To many think the most timing is the way to go, not true, and actually a little dangerous if any little issue crops up, you could go instantly to detonation, not good spraying or not. If your forced to use your method, i would go back further than just till knock goes away, just for added piece of mind in the safety department.
Robert
Reading your plugs for your indicated timing mark is the way to do it (if you don't have access to a dyno), and including strip tuning you'll be able to tune in for max power. Even with a dyno and knowing max power, reading of the plugs are still benificial, with actual track time to back up dyno. Setting it to KR and then backing off till it goes away tells you what? We want volumetric efficancy and we won't be getting that with guessing about the timing and/or peak timing to be used. To many think the most timing is the way to go, not true, and actually a little dangerous if any little issue crops up, you could go instantly to detonation, not good spraying or not. If your forced to use your method, i would go back further than just till knock goes away, just for added piece of mind in the safety department.Robert
Last edited by vaticano; Jul 21, 2008 at 03:52 PM.
I'm officially converted, tune wise that is.
Running through the 2nd tank of gas right now.
It may not be ideal but its running pretty solid and my fuel is almost spot on.
Will be on the dyno this weekend so I hope I don't blow er up.
Running through the 2nd tank of gas right now.
It may not be ideal but its running pretty solid and my fuel is almost spot on.
Will be on the dyno this weekend so I hope I don't blow er up.
What did you do to change the tune? Just change stoich value?
If I change my stoich value and my VE is already tuned; when I run on E85, what is my wideband going to read at idle and light throttle if I leave it set for gas and it was reading 14.7 with gas?
That was done, Spark was raised globally as well as idle spark.
Idle spark is sitting somewhere around 26-28 and pretty solid.
I can't speak for what your trims will do when switching.
I'm currently OLSD so there aren't any real adjustments that get made by my comp when I switched. I was still in the process of getting the 42# injectors in line so what my VE looked like before wasn't really indicative of what it is now.
I prob won't ever get a chance to get it dyno tuned to make the most effective spark changes either, which stinks.
Idle spark is sitting somewhere around 26-28 and pretty solid.
I can't speak for what your trims will do when switching.
I'm currently OLSD so there aren't any real adjustments that get made by my comp when I switched. I was still in the process of getting the 42# injectors in line so what my VE looked like before wasn't really indicative of what it is now.
I prob won't ever get a chance to get it dyno tuned to make the most effective spark changes either, which stinks.
Grabbed this from EFI Live. It is the GM flex fuel table.