Overheated Fuel Pump?
The car runs and idles perfectly most of the time. Then out of the blue the car won't idle at all. It will stall and I usually can't even get it to start again. I'll leave it sit for a couple of hours and it will run fine. I finally put the correlation together that it was happening most frequently when I was under 1/4 tank of gas. However, it has happened even at 1/2 of a tank.
Has anybody out there experienced the same problem? Are there any known problems with the FBodys or fuel pumps that have problems in general?
I am running the Walbro 255 liter/hr unit.
The car is a 2000 SS w/ full bolt ons. It has heads and a 224/224 cam.
The car runs and idles perfectly most of the time. Then out of the blue the car won't idle at all. It will stall and I usually can't even get it to start again. I'll leave it sit for a couple of hours and it will run fine. I finally put the correlation together that it was happening most frequently when I was under 1/4 tank of gas. However, it has happened even at 1/2 of a tank.
Has anybody out there experienced the same problem? Are there any known problems with the FBodys or fuel pumps that have problems in general?
I am running the Walbro 255 liter/hr unit.
The car is a 2000 SS w/ full bolt ons. It has heads and a 224/224 cam.
Because I just replaced the pump. I really don't know what I should rewire. I'll look and see if I can find any info from the manufacturer.
Mssingkid - How much fuel did you have at the time it acted up? How long had you been driving?
Because I just replaced the pump. I really don't know what I should rewire. I'll look and see if I can find any info from the manufacturer.
Mssingkid - How much fuel did you have at the time it acted up? How long had you been driving?
3/4 of a tank. It started acting up on Sat, i had been driving just about 8-10 hours non-stop. I was cruizing in 6th, and when i went to get off the exit, the car idled really low, then died. After a few try's it turned over, but any time i gave it gas it felt like it wasn't getting fuel, sputtering and very little throttle responce. I Drove to work today(10mins away) and she felt fine, so i'm convinced that it's an issue with the pump or the fuel filter. Grr.. alway soemthing.
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Nate
Nate
I'm certainly willing to give that a try, but I did not see that listed on your web site. Can you post up a link?
Nate
I know i should search
, but will the hotwire kit work with 98 model year cars?? I modified the pump bucket to install it I'm pretty sure this is allowing the pump to get uncoverd with fuel causing the over heat and damage.
Of course, with the setup there is no need for cutting of the fuel bucket as it retains the factory jet pump feature. The wiring harness is PnP. I now have around 61# pressure at idle (up from factory 58#). No hesitation/stalling/dying issues at all.
The Full Throttle setup is very similar to the Racetronix but less expensive at $135 for the pump and $59.99 for wiring harness. Biggest difference I can see betwen the two ( I have Racetronix in my one T/A & FT pump in the other) is that the FT pump does not have the anodized sleeve for the pump as the Racetronix does. This was no big deal to me as I have many contacts with machine shops and had one custom made for free (all this does is makes the pump fit better in the factory location vs. the rubber ring that is included with the FT pump).
Both setups use the exact same Walbro pump and have the jet pump feature.
Wiring harness is MUCH better than stock wiring and includes HD relay, fuse, and take-off connector for Boost-a-pumps if you use one. Wiring install is straightforward but you must either have the tank dropped, or the trap door method done to access the top of the fuel bucket when installed in the tank as the short wiring harness section plugs in between the fuel bucket connector and factory harness connector. If you have the tank installed, but the trap door done - it is possible to run the main harness wire up behind the tank and the car to get it up on top of tank to plug into short harness - but as I stated before - you will need acces to the top of the fuel bucket to install the short section of harness.
I would recommend even installing the upgraded wiring harness with the stock pump setup.
-Jay-
Of course, with the setup there is no need for cutting of the fuel bucket as it retains the factory jet pump feature. The wiring harness is PnP. I now have around 61# pressure at idle (up from factory 58#). No hesitation/stalling/dying issues at all.
The Full Throttle setup is very similar to the Racetronix but less expensive at $135 for the pump and $59.99 for wiring harness. Biggest difference I can see betwen the two ( I have Racetronix in my one T/A & FT pump in the other) is that the FT pump does not have the anodized sleeve for the pump as the Racetronix does. This was no big deal to me as I have many contacts with machine shops and had one custom made for free (all this does is makes the pump fit better in the factory location vs. the rubber ring that is included with the FT pump).
Both setups use the exact same Walbro pump and have the jet pump feature.
Wiring harness is MUCH better than stock wiring and includes HD relay, fuse, and take-off connector for Boost-a-pumps if you use one. Wiring install is straightforward but you must either have the tank dropped, or the trap door method done to access the top of the fuel bucket when installed in the tank as the short wiring harness section plugs in between the fuel bucket connector and factory harness connector. If you have the tank installed, but the trap door done - it is possible to run the main harness wire up behind the tank and the car to get it up on top of tank to plug into short harness - but as I stated before - you will need acces to the top of the fuel bucket to install the short section of harness.
I would recommend even installing the upgraded wiring harness with the stock pump setup.
-Jay-
I had a Walbro that I bought back in 2003 and have been running it up until about 4 months ago when it finally went out on me and that thing worked FLAWLESSLY! I was running WITHOUT the stock fuel bucket and WITHOUT any kinda wiring harness upgrades etc and that thing worked perfect for the last 4 years.
Personally I think all this crap about wiring harnesses and needing this and that just to get the pump to work is all bullshit just so someone can make more money because the pumps that walbro was putting out back then didn't have any problems. It seems like all these new pumps are garbage. These pumps are supposed to be stock replacements. They don't say "this pump will only work if you buy a better harness or make all kinds of modifications. Now I can understand that the pump might run better if it has an upgraded harness or whatever, but in no way should there be an issue with this crap about the pump dying when there is less than a 1/4 tank of gas in the car just because of a wiring harness. Also that is NOT caused lack of using the stock bucket either, I know from personal experience. Think about it, why would a better harness or using the fuel bucket have anything to do with the pump dying while the car is sitting perfectly still at idle? You could take the same pump and put it in a bucket full of gas and when connected that pump should work no matter what, unless it's defective. If the pump is running and it's submerged in gas, then it should be pumping, PERIOD.
What I do know is that a lot of people have this same problem and I can't find anybody with a proven solution. So I have to start eliminating possible failure modes until my car will run. PERIOD.
I had a Walbro that I bought back in 2003 and have been running it up until about 4 months ago when it finally went out on me and that thing worked FLAWLESSLY! I was running WITHOUT the stock fuel bucket and WITHOUT any kinda wiring harness upgrades etc and that thing worked perfect for the last 4 years.
Personally I think all this crap about wiring harnesses and needing this and that just to get the pump to work is all bullshit just so someone can make more money because the pumps that walbro was putting out back then didn't have any problems. It seems like all these new pumps are garbage. These pumps are supposed to be stock replacements. They don't say "this pump will only work if you buy a better harness or make all kinds of modifications. Now I can understand that the pump might run better if it has an upgraded harness or whatever, but in no way should there be an issue with this crap about the pump dying when there is less than a 1/4 tank of gas in the car just because of a wiring harness. Also that is NOT caused lack of using the stock bucket either, I know from personal experience. Think about it, why would a better harness or using the fuel bucket have anything to do with the pump dying while the car is sitting perfectly still at idle? You could take the same pump and put it in a bucket full of gas and when connected that pump should work no matter what, unless it's defective. If the pump is running and it's submerged in gas, then it should be pumping, PERIOD.
What I do know is that a lot of people have this same problem and I can't find anybody with a proven solution. So I have to start eliminating possible failure modes until my car will run. PERIOD.
I only ask because I had this same problem with a pump that I bought a month ago off ebay that I was told was a Walbro pump, I never actually looked for the Walbro branding when I installed the pump as I assumed it was a Walbro. I started having the same problems as you, just as you read in my thread that you posted in. Well when I removed the pump I found out that it was in fact NOT a genuine Walbro pump, but it turned out to be one of those "LIKE WALBRO" type pumps
I can drive for about 2 hours, and then my fuel pressure goes away, the Fuel Trims go way positive, and I am screwed.
The FPR is new, so I have confidence in it.
I changed the fuel filter, although it only had about 5k miles on it.
The pump only has about 10-15k on it.
If I let the car set overnight, it will run another 2 hours.
If I check the pressure immediately after it fails, it is very low.
I have a Hypertech fuel pressure gauge that attaches to the Schraeder valve and sits in the engine compartment. I don't have a permanent gauge mounted inside the car.
Is my only option to replace the pump? I hate to do it, but if I have to, then so be it. I am in the middle of doing my tune, and it is interfering big time. Plus I can't make it to the track until it is fixed, because it is so unreliable.






