Alternative to the CAS boost referenced FPR?
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Well after reading this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...=002155#000015
I started trying to track the CAS Boost Referenced FPR that I ordered and so far it's not looking good. Granted it hasn't been long enough to throw in the towel yet, but on the chance I do, I'd like to know what my next move should be.
So I have the Walbro GSS340 ready to install. Ironically I bought the 340 because of the CAS FPR, but anywho... Where should I look now? Does another manufacturer make a Boost Referenced FPR? I want to run as safe an FI setup as possible. So you're fueling suggestions are very welcome.
Just FYI, I will be running the following:
ATI Procharger 8 lbs Tuner Kit
42# SVO injectors
Walbro GSS340 intank fuel pump
Aeromotive inline fuel pump
LS1Edit/ATAP
Thanks,
BH
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...=002155#000015
I started trying to track the CAS Boost Referenced FPR that I ordered and so far it's not looking good. Granted it hasn't been long enough to throw in the towel yet, but on the chance I do, I'd like to know what my next move should be.
So I have the Walbro GSS340 ready to install. Ironically I bought the 340 because of the CAS FPR, but anywho... Where should I look now? Does another manufacturer make a Boost Referenced FPR? I want to run as safe an FI setup as possible. So you're fueling suggestions are very welcome.
Just FYI, I will be running the following:
ATI Procharger 8 lbs Tuner Kit
42# SVO injectors
Walbro GSS340 intank fuel pump
Aeromotive inline fuel pump
LS1Edit/ATAP
Thanks,
BH
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My old powerdyne setup used to use a Boost referenced FPR. It was very easy to innstall including the return line,,,maybe give power dyne a call and see if you can purchase the frp and return line.
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Blown Hawk,
Where did you order your CAS regulator from? I ordered mine from Speed Inc, took about a week and a half, but that was with a money order. It's a nice looking regulator IMO.
<small>[ April 11, 2003, 04:54 PM: Message edited by: Lost & Found2 ]</small>
Where did you order your CAS regulator from? I ordered mine from Speed Inc, took about a week and a half, but that was with a money order. It's a nice looking regulator IMO.
<small>[ April 11, 2003, 04:54 PM: Message edited by: Lost & Found2 ]</small>
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Lost & Found2:
<strong> Blown Hawk,
Where did you order your CAS regulator from? I ordered mine from Speed Inc, took about a week and a half, but that was with a money order. It's a nice looking regulator IMO. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Directly from CAS. I was unaware that 3rd party vendors sold them. I've seen pictures and you're right it does look like a solid unit. That's why I'm hoping that I don't have to reverse charges. CAS just isn't being ultra responsive right now and others seem to think that they never will. Hey if it shows up at my door, it's all good. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
BH
<strong> Blown Hawk,
Where did you order your CAS regulator from? I ordered mine from Speed Inc, took about a week and a half, but that was with a money order. It's a nice looking regulator IMO. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Directly from CAS. I was unaware that 3rd party vendors sold them. I've seen pictures and you're right it does look like a solid unit. That's why I'm hoping that I don't have to reverse charges. CAS just isn't being ultra responsive right now and others seem to think that they never will. Hey if it shows up at my door, it's all good. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
BH
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maybe ask speed inc. if they could *please* look at your order status for you if you arent getting through to cas.
there are lots of other regulators out there.. that one just worked so i went with it. aeromotive has a bunch of them . just do a search on google and make some calls.. maybe you will find something new that costs less and works as well?
there are lots of other regulators out there.. that one just worked so i went with it. aeromotive has a bunch of them . just do a search on google and make some calls.. maybe you will find something new that costs less and works as well?
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I just took off my Incon-supplied fpr, which was machined from aluminum and looked a little like the CAS unti from the only pic I saw.
I can't comment on the CAS unit, but I'll tell you the Incon unit is light duty and imo a joke. Due to an installer issue (or bad design), mine had a ruptured diaphram with less than 1k miles on it - the boost reference line was full of fuel <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />
if you need a fpr, don't skimp, you can get a decent Aeromotive unit for around $130 just about anywhere, or a Weldon for another 70-100 bucks.
I can't comment on the CAS unit, but I'll tell you the Incon unit is light duty and imo a joke. Due to an installer issue (or bad design), mine had a ruptured diaphram with less than 1k miles on it - the boost reference line was full of fuel <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />
if you need a fpr, don't skimp, you can get a decent Aeromotive unit for around $130 just about anywhere, or a Weldon for another 70-100 bucks.
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by DaveSchott:
<strong>
if you need a fpr, don't skimp, you can get a decent Aeromotive unit for around $130 just about anywhere, or a Weldon for another 70-100 bucks. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the reply guys. I checked with my credit card today and CAS never attempted to authorize the charge, so either they lost the order or are waiting on something... hopefully the former. Anywho I wrote Tony(cause his message box is full again) and told him to cancel my order.
Now I could buy the CAS unit from Speed Inc. but why would I want to go with a product from a manufacturer with such a shotty track record.
I've seen the aeromotive unit and it looks nice. What are the details on the weldon unit? I mean obviously if the Aeromotive FPR does the job then there's no need to spend the extra 70-100 bucks.
Knowing my setup(listed above) what unit do you all think would work best for me?
BH
<strong>
if you need a fpr, don't skimp, you can get a decent Aeromotive unit for around $130 just about anywhere, or a Weldon for another 70-100 bucks. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the reply guys. I checked with my credit card today and CAS never attempted to authorize the charge, so either they lost the order or are waiting on something... hopefully the former. Anywho I wrote Tony(cause his message box is full again) and told him to cancel my order.
Now I could buy the CAS unit from Speed Inc. but why would I want to go with a product from a manufacturer with such a shotty track record.
I've seen the aeromotive unit and it looks nice. What are the details on the weldon unit? I mean obviously if the Aeromotive FPR does the job then there's no need to spend the extra 70-100 bucks.
Knowing my setup(listed above) what unit do you all think would work best for me?
BH
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Blown Hawk:
Knowing my setup(listed above) what unit do you all think would work best for me?
BH [/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Aero (my recommendation): http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...50&prmenbr=361
ignore that they say "import efi" in the description, that is a recent verbiage change.
Weldon 2040-200-A-120 (if you want the best but is overkill): http://www.weldonracing.com/valve.htm
Knowing my setup(listed above) what unit do you all think would work best for me?
BH [/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Aero (my recommendation): http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...50&prmenbr=361
ignore that they say "import efi" in the description, that is a recent verbiage change.
Weldon 2040-200-A-120 (if you want the best but is overkill): http://www.weldonracing.com/valve.htm
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OK so what's the difference between:
http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=10
and
http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=12
I like these regulators because they seem compatable with my Aeromotive Inline fuel pump.
Thanks for the help guys,
BH
http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=10
and
http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=12
I like these regulators because they seem compatable with my Aeromotive Inline fuel pump.
Thanks for the help guys,
BH
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This one has dual inlets http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=10
and was my choice before I found a deal on a weldon.
and
judging from the pic, this one is the dressed-up version of the crap Incon unit I replaced:
http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=12
Can't recommned this unit. it also has a bullshit "combination adjustment screw-vacuum/boost port". uses a single inlet port which is OK if you are mounting at the rear
and was my choice before I found a deal on a weldon.
and
judging from the pic, this one is the dressed-up version of the crap Incon unit I replaced:
http://216.242.145.16/products/product.phtml?p=12
Can't recommned this unit. it also has a bullshit "combination adjustment screw-vacuum/boost port". uses a single inlet port which is OK if you are mounting at the rear
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Thanks Dave and everyone else for that matter. I went ahead and ordered the Aeromotive 13109. Now my only question is about installation. The stock FPR is mounted on the return line inside the tank, correct? Where are you guys installing your new FPRs?
BH
BH
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The conventional mounting method is under the hood, which requires a return line back to the tank. The weldon site has a graphic of the hookup, each fuel rail return going into the fpr inlets. but I'm mounting in the back which negates the need for the return line from the engine bay.
The incon spec called for mounting the fpr just above and in front of the axle, driver side, next to the pass-thru connectors for the abs. this is where mine was, and is where i'm putting the weldon. btw, getting the fittings can be quite the ordeal, allow yourself plenty of time to gather parts. I start my install next week.
what you need to know is that the fuel supply line out of the tank goes into a T fitting in front of the fuel filter, where the 3/8 line continues to the engine, and a 5/16" steel line goes back towards the tank - this is the return line. plumb this line into one of the inlets on the fpr, the other inlet is to be plugged. the outlet needs to go back into the tank as the return. this return line was already plumbed because my incon kit required it, dont know what you'll need to do.
you'll need to run a reference hose back from the intake so that the fpr sees boost and adjusts upwards the fp. i've heard people put in some type of check valve so the fpr only sees boost, not vacumm, i'm looking for a suitable valve right now (maybe a pcv valve?).
<small>[ April 16, 2003, 10:33 PM: Message edited by: DaveSchott ]</small>
The incon spec called for mounting the fpr just above and in front of the axle, driver side, next to the pass-thru connectors for the abs. this is where mine was, and is where i'm putting the weldon. btw, getting the fittings can be quite the ordeal, allow yourself plenty of time to gather parts. I start my install next week.
what you need to know is that the fuel supply line out of the tank goes into a T fitting in front of the fuel filter, where the 3/8 line continues to the engine, and a 5/16" steel line goes back towards the tank - this is the return line. plumb this line into one of the inlets on the fpr, the other inlet is to be plugged. the outlet needs to go back into the tank as the return. this return line was already plumbed because my incon kit required it, dont know what you'll need to do.
you'll need to run a reference hose back from the intake so that the fpr sees boost and adjusts upwards the fp. i've heard people put in some type of check valve so the fpr only sees boost, not vacumm, i'm looking for a suitable valve right now (maybe a pcv valve?).
<small>[ April 16, 2003, 10:33 PM: Message edited by: DaveSchott ]</small>
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by DaveSchott:
<strong> The conventional mounting method is under the hood, which requires a return line back to the tank. The weldon site has a graphic of the hookup, each fuel rail return going into the fpr inlets. btw, getting the fittings can be quite the ordeal, allow yourself plenty of time to gather parts. I start my install next week.
what you need to know is that the fuel supply line out of the tank goes into a T fitting in front of the fuel filter, where the 3/8 line continues to the engine, and a 5/16" steel line goes back towards the tank - this is the return line. plumb this line into one of the inlets on the fpr, the other inlet is to be plugged. the outlet needs to go back into the tank as the return. this return line was already plumbed because my incon kit required it, dont know what you'll need to do.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">OK so the smartest setup would be to put the FPR as close to the fuel rails as possible right? Assuming that is true what do I need to run it there? The aeromotive inline pump and aeromotive BRFPR both use -6an connections. So should I buy two 15' fuel lines. One with a -6an to -6an for the fuel line to the fuel rails. Then another -6an to 3/8" steel line for the return line back to the tank. Then I could do away with the T-split after the fuel filter.
Let me ask, why do I see two (looks like)5/16" steel lines going up front? Is that one for each fuel rail?
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by DaveSchott:
<strong>
you'll need to run a reference hose back from the intake so that the fpr sees boost and adjusts upwards the fp. i've heard people put in some type of check valve so the fpr only sees boost, not vacumm, i'm looking for a suitable valve right now (maybe a pcv valve?). </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Please let me know what you find for this, as I was told the same thing. I'll be interested to see what you use for this.
Thanks for all your help Dave, it's very appreciated.
BH
<strong> The conventional mounting method is under the hood, which requires a return line back to the tank. The weldon site has a graphic of the hookup, each fuel rail return going into the fpr inlets. btw, getting the fittings can be quite the ordeal, allow yourself plenty of time to gather parts. I start my install next week.
what you need to know is that the fuel supply line out of the tank goes into a T fitting in front of the fuel filter, where the 3/8 line continues to the engine, and a 5/16" steel line goes back towards the tank - this is the return line. plumb this line into one of the inlets on the fpr, the other inlet is to be plugged. the outlet needs to go back into the tank as the return. this return line was already plumbed because my incon kit required it, dont know what you'll need to do.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">OK so the smartest setup would be to put the FPR as close to the fuel rails as possible right? Assuming that is true what do I need to run it there? The aeromotive inline pump and aeromotive BRFPR both use -6an connections. So should I buy two 15' fuel lines. One with a -6an to -6an for the fuel line to the fuel rails. Then another -6an to 3/8" steel line for the return line back to the tank. Then I could do away with the T-split after the fuel filter.
Let me ask, why do I see two (looks like)5/16" steel lines going up front? Is that one for each fuel rail?
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by DaveSchott:
<strong>
you'll need to run a reference hose back from the intake so that the fpr sees boost and adjusts upwards the fp. i've heard people put in some type of check valve so the fpr only sees boost, not vacumm, i'm looking for a suitable valve right now (maybe a pcv valve?). </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Please let me know what you find for this, as I was told the same thing. I'll be interested to see what you use for this.
Thanks for all your help Dave, it's very appreciated.
BH
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Blown Hawk:
<strong> Let me ask, why do I see two (looks like)5/16" steel lines going up front? Is that one for each fuel rail?
BH </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sent you a PM...
The smaller line is the evap return. The larger line feeds the fuel rail. You must want something to support greater than 550-600, so it's time for those who have done a full system to chime in...
<small>[ April 17, 2003, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: DaveSchott ]</small>
<strong> Let me ask, why do I see two (looks like)5/16" steel lines going up front? Is that one for each fuel rail?
BH </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Sent you a PM...
The smaller line is the evap return. The larger line feeds the fuel rail. You must want something to support greater than 550-600, so it's time for those who have done a full system to chime in...
<small>[ April 17, 2003, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: DaveSchott ]</small>
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The Aeromotive Regulator is near it's limit with a top PSI rating of 70 PSI.
If you are 58 to 60 PSI already and wanted to run 10 PSI of boost, guess what? You are about to exceed the specifications of this regulator, since it is a one to one rise in boost.
The CAS regulator is rated much higher (I forget now, but when I bought it, it was definitely higher than would concern me). Anticipating that I am about to run at least 13 to 14 PSI, the Aeromotive was not an option for me.
If you are 58 to 60 PSI already and wanted to run 10 PSI of boost, guess what? You are about to exceed the specifications of this regulator, since it is a one to one rise in boost.
The CAS regulator is rated much higher (I forget now, but when I bought it, it was definitely higher than would concern me). Anticipating that I am about to run at least 13 to 14 PSI, the Aeromotive was not an option for me.
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Racetronix also told me the Aeromotive regulator was having a higher rate of failure than the CAS regulators. With it running so close to capacity, I wouldn't be surprised.
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Originally Posted by Black LS1 T/A
Racetronix also told me the Aeromotive regulator was having a higher rate of failure than the CAS regulators. With it running so close to capacity, I wouldn't be surprised.
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Cool... I may have to pick one up (even though I have the CAS regulator) as a backup. Nothin' lasts forever. About what PSI should it bee rated to? What type of AN fittings will be available? The CAS fittings were mis-matched to my Rail fittings.
Keep doin' ya thang, Racetronix.
Keep doin' ya thang, Racetronix.
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Last edited by Black LS1 T/A; 05-22-2004 at 06:59 AM.