Best Torque Arm
02-17-2009 | 02:03 AM
#2
02-19-2009 | 12:21 PM
#6
kinda depends on what your doing,,,are you stock height? lowered? track or street?
I too have a M12, i am stock height, so my choice was the BMR non adjustable TA. (lowered cars need to be able to adjust the pinion angle) I do not plan on lowering and will see miminal track use, so no adjusments are needed for me. The BMR arm was on sale when i bought it,,,cant remember the price, but want to say it was less than 200 brand spanking new. You will need to find the current prices from whomever, i dont have those handy. I found it best to have the whole rear end on the floor when attaching the TA to the rear, so could get some good grab on those two top TA bolts. Then i put the whole rear with TA attached up and in (by myself i might add)You may have your rear already installed, and thats still do-able just takes some ingenuity with the proper tools to get theose two top bolts nice and tight,,,dont forget the super red locktite.
I too have a M12, i am stock height, so my choice was the BMR non adjustable TA. (lowered cars need to be able to adjust the pinion angle) I do not plan on lowering and will see miminal track use, so no adjusments are needed for me. The BMR arm was on sale when i bought it,,,cant remember the price, but want to say it was less than 200 brand spanking new. You will need to find the current prices from whomever, i dont have those handy. I found it best to have the whole rear end on the floor when attaching the TA to the rear, so could get some good grab on those two top TA bolts. Then i put the whole rear with TA attached up and in (by myself i might add)You may have your rear already installed, and thats still do-able just takes some ingenuity with the proper tools to get theose two top bolts nice and tight,,,dont forget the super red locktite.
02-19-2009 | 09:36 PM
#7
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 195
Likes: 1
From: Newark, Ohio
kinda depends on what your doing,,,are you stock height? lowered? track or street?
I too have a M12, i am stock height, so my choice was the BMR non adjustable TA. (lowered cars need to be able to adjust the pinion angle) I do not plan on lowering and will see miminal track use, so no adjusments are needed for me. The BMR arm was on sale when i bought it,,,cant remember the price, but want to say it was less than 200 brand spanking new. You will need to find the current prices from whomever, i dont have those handy. I found it best to have the whole rear end on the floor when attaching the TA to the rear, so could get some good grab on those two top TA bolts. Then i put the whole rear with TA attached up and in (by myself i might add)You may have your rear already installed, and thats still do-able just takes some ingenuity with the proper tools to get theose two top bolts nice and tight,,,dont forget the super red locktite.
I too have a M12, i am stock height, so my choice was the BMR non adjustable TA. (lowered cars need to be able to adjust the pinion angle) I do not plan on lowering and will see miminal track use, so no adjusments are needed for me. The BMR arm was on sale when i bought it,,,cant remember the price, but want to say it was less than 200 brand spanking new. You will need to find the current prices from whomever, i dont have those handy. I found it best to have the whole rear end on the floor when attaching the TA to the rear, so could get some good grab on those two top TA bolts. Then i put the whole rear with TA attached up and in (by myself i might add)You may have your rear already installed, and thats still do-able just takes some ingenuity with the proper tools to get theose two top bolts nice and tight,,,dont forget the super red locktite.
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02-20-2009 | 12:27 PM
#11
I am happy with my UMI nonadjustable. You may need
adjustability if the Moser offsets the mounting relative
to stock.
Beware of the "short bolt pulls out" problem on some
of the aftermarket diffs. If you have blind bolts that
don't go all the way through to a keeper nut, then
you want to probably run a bottoming tap all down
all the holes, and get high grade bolts which you can
end-grind to use the entire threaded depth. Check
the Gears & Axles section for stuff on this.
adjustability if the Moser offsets the mounting relative
to stock.
Beware of the "short bolt pulls out" problem on some
of the aftermarket diffs. If you have blind bolts that
don't go all the way through to a keeper nut, then
you want to probably run a bottoming tap all down
all the holes, and get high grade bolts which you can
end-grind to use the entire threaded depth. Check
the Gears & Axles section for stuff on this.
02-23-2009 | 04:02 PM
#13
We offer several variations of torque arms and torque arm relocation crossmembers. The pages can be found here:
Torque Arms Torque Arm Relocation Kit
Please feel free to ask any questions you might have regarding our products line ...
Our torque arms are found on the fastest LS1 cars in the country....
02-24-2009 | 02:11 PM
#16
It's not a terribly complicated subject but one that can have lots of variables.
If you would like to give me a call here at the office I can go over the best options available for your particular application. Lots of things get lost in translation on the boards......
02-24-2009 | 06:16 PM
#17
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,301
Likes: 0
From: gonzales louisiana
TA vs the shorter crossmember mounted TA is almost a foot difference i think..
high hp applications= longer tourque arm
low hp= short / crossmember mounted
thats just how i see it
